Hey everybody, i know how much you all hate my car... but I've bought some stuff to make you hate it more.
Next weekend, I'm having my wastegate ported, installing a Manual Boost Controller (thx home depot!), rewiring my fuel pump so it gets bumpin voltage, tossing in a new o2 sensor, installing Racing beat downpipe and presilencer, and a bling bling apexi intake. Then I'll set the boost to 9psi solid (now it's 8psi-11psi depending on how moody its feeling) and I'll be running around 220whp. Hooray for revving like a motorcycle!
and here's a movie for visiting my thread: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.1300cc.com/media/start.mov">http://www.1300cc.com/media/start.mov</a><!-- m -->
Next step to be completed this summer: drilled/slotted rotors, SS lines, HP+ pads, FA rubbers
Dont get drilled/slotted rotors. Only replace the lines if the OEM lines are worn/dryrot/cracked/etc. For a street car, SS lines arent worth the liability, IMHO.
(09-25-2019, 03:18 PM)V1GiLaNtE Wrote: I think you need to see a mental health professional.
really? brake feel isn't so great in my old pile. Bleeding the brakes helped a bit... oh, and why not drilled or slotted rotors?
PS mountain run on 33W made my brakes feel like slush. :?
JackoliciousLegs Wrote:really? brake feel isn't so great in my old pile. Bleeding the brakes helped a bit... oh, and why not drilled or slotted rotors?
replace Master Cylinder?
i know this is the symptom in my mom's '86 gti, i've been recommended to either replace the stock Master Cylinder or upgrade to 22mm MC.
JackoliciousLegs Wrote:really? brake feel isn't so great in my old pile. Bleeding the brakes helped a bit...
Better pads. SS lines can help, but do everything else first.
Quote:oh, and why not drilled or slotted rotors?
There's no benefit, other than lightening your wallet. And drilled rotors like to crack.
Quote:PS mountain run on 33W made my brakes feel like slush. :?
Better pads.
(09-25-2019, 03:18 PM)V1GiLaNtE Wrote: I think you need to see a mental health professional.
werd... after inspection, i'll see how them pads look...
Well, if they're stock (or who knows what) pads, then HP+ will be a good upgrade. Flush the fluid out also - valvoline synpower is decent and you can pick it up at Vatozone.
If the rotors are worn/grooved/thin/etc then it would be a good time to replace them also.
(09-25-2019, 03:18 PM)V1GiLaNtE Wrote: I think you need to see a mental health professional.
you don't think its worth it getting slotted and or drilled rotors at all? do you run solids at the track w/o fade?
JackoliciousLegs Wrote:you don't think its worth it getting slotted and or drilled rotors at all? do you run solids at the track w/o fade?
no and yes. rotors don't fade.
I Am Mike
4 wheels: '01 RAV4 (Formerly '93 Civic CX, '01 S2000, '10 GTI, '09 A4 Avant)
2 wheels: '12 Surly Cross-Check Custom | '14 Trek Madone 2.1 105 | '17 Norco Threshold SL Force 1 | '17 Norco Revolver 9.2 FS | '18 BMC Roadmachine 02 Two | '19 Norco Search XR Steel (Formerly '97 Honda VFR750F, '05 Giant TCR 2, '15 WeThePeople Atlas 24, '10 Scott Scale 29er XT, '11 Cervelo R3 Rival, '12 Ridley X-Fire Red)
No longer onyachin.
SS lines on the street won't be so bad as long as you check them often and wrap them.
http://www.2kgt.com/images/MMRSB_8-9-03/img_3881.jpg
Slotted/XDrilled are CRAP, unless you are the williams team and spend $4,000 on them and replace them each day.
-c
JackoliciousLegs Wrote:you don't think its worth it getting slotted and or drilled rotors at all? do you run solids at the track w/o fade?
Rotors have nothing to do with brake fade.
(09-25-2019, 03:18 PM)V1GiLaNtE Wrote: I think you need to see a mental health professional.
white_2kgt Wrote:SS lines on the street won't be so bad as long as you check them often and wrap them. what does wrapping them do? I've never heard of this before
If the line is in contact with anything, the line can be comprimised and fail.
Wrapping it doesnt solve the problem, but it does give you some extra time to catch it before it becomes a problem.
If you have to zip tie lines to anything, make sure that you isolate the line from whatever it is you're tying it to.
This is something new I learned this year - it was the reason for Brian Shugg's adventure in T1 @ summit 2 years ago (going into T1 with no brakes, across the access road, across the skid pad and into a tree).
(09-25-2019, 03:18 PM)V1GiLaNtE Wrote: I think you need to see a mental health professional.
.RJ Wrote:... Brian Shugg's adventure in T1 @ summit 2 years ago (going into T1 with no brakes, across the access road, across the skid pad and into a tree).
 hock: ....yikes..... hock:
i figured that if the rotor was cooled better, fade would be limited.
Slots or Holes do not increase cooling
(09-25-2019, 03:18 PM)V1GiLaNtE Wrote: I think you need to see a mental health professional.
.RJ Wrote:Slots or Holes do not increase cooling
Actually, drilled rotors are meant to dissipate heat. Slotted rotors are meant to dissipate brake dust.
Although they don't wear down, they do warp if you get crap ones. Get good ones so you can hold the brakes on full at 100+ and not worry about wobblies 
__
Mykel
'95 Pontiac Sunfire GT :O (be scared)
'90+ Turbo II soon...
^ Im with stupid.
Jack some good pads like HP+, Ultimates, or carbotech bobcats will really improve your braking more than anything else.
Drilled rotors are for looks only, get some good OE blanks or Brembo blanks if you need to replace them.
alright... NEW PLAN EVERYONE!!!
HP+s on Brembo blanks!
mykel Wrote:Actually, drilled rotors are meant to dissipate heat. Slotted rotors are meant to dissipate brake dust.
Drilled rotors do not dissipate heat faster.
If anything, they reduce the thermal capacity (the rotor is a heat sink) of the system because there is less mass available to absorb heat from the pads, and transfer it to the air going through the rotor (convection).
Again, Drilled rotors do not dissipate heat faster. This isnt a theory, or a guess, this is hard fact. I can go further on why if you want, but its a dead, beaten, bloddy, rotting horse.
Quote:Although they don't wear down, they do warp if you get crap ones. Get good ones so you can hold the brakes on full at 100+ and not worry about wobblies
Wobbles? If it feels like a warped rotor you have a material transfer problem.
Most drilled rotors are crap anyways, and are drilled after heat treating, which creates stress risers, and they crack in short order.
To answer your next question of "why do Ferrari/Porsche/etc use drilled rotors", Porsche uses them for better wet braking performance ( <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://content2.us.porsche.com/prod/911/turbo04.nsf/usaenglish/safety_aerodynamicsbraking_system">http://content2.us.porsche.com/prod/911 ... ing_system</a><!-- m --> ) and the rest, well if you're spending $200k or more on a car it better look cool.
(09-25-2019, 03:18 PM)V1GiLaNtE Wrote: I think you need to see a mental health professional.
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