Looks like it's not in my supply. I have a throttle body and guibo, but that's about it. Matt is going to look to see what he has later.
I haven't even checked for throttle body and etc. ugh one reason it's really hard to take on projects that have been torn apart in multiple places
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2020 Ford Raptor
2009 Z06
1986.5 Porsche 928S
STOP THE PRESSES!
someone set up a go-fund-me page for <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1989-bmw-325i-touring-3/">http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1989-b ... touring-3/</a><!-- m -->
This is the car that needs the s50.
I'll donate $5 to the cause
2019 Accord Sport 2.0 A/T
2012 Civic Si - Sold
I gave Dave the rest of the stuff that I had and it should be on the way to you soon. Found a bag of random nuts and bolts from the teardown that might be useful as well!
$&@@$!!!!!!!! To fix the rusted brake lines I have to pull the subframe. To pull the subframe I have to take off the ebrake lines... that are rusted
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2020 Ford Raptor
2009 Z06
1986.5 Porsche 928S
D_Eclipse9916 Wrote:$&@@$!!!!!!!! To fix the rusted brake lines I have to pull the subframe. To pull the subframe I have to take off the ebrake lines... that are rusted
I'll just leave a standing apology for the corrosion under that thing.
This one? <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-parking-brake-cable-n-a-34411158421">https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-pa ... 4411158421</a><!-- m -->
I found (by chance) the idle control valve at the scrap yard today, someone had pulled the intake and a bunch of other parts off the engine, but I found it on the ground next to another car... It was missing hoses and such, so I'll have to inventory what those are and get them ordered tomorrow. I'll add the e brake cable, if that's the right one.
davej Wrote:D_Eclipse9916 Wrote:$&@@$!!!!!!!! To fix the rusted brake lines I have to pull the subframe. To pull the subframe I have to take off the ebrake lines... that are rusted
I'll just leave a standing apology for the corrosion under that thing.
This one? <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-parking-brake-cable-n-a-34411158421">https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-pa ... 4411158421</a><!-- m -->
I found (by chance) the idle control valve at the scrap yard today, someone had pulled the intake and a bunch of other parts off the engine, but I found it on the ground next to another car... It was missing hoses and such, so I'll have to inventory what those are and get them ordered tomorrow. I'll add the e brake cable, if that's the right one.
They are crumbling but in an effort to save you some money I pulled it with the cables still attached.
Your subframe bushings didn't save the same fate. They are :SURPRISE: seized to the subframe bolts. They are now dust on my floor. :lol:
:cough cough: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="https://www.akgmotorsport.com/product/rear-subframe-and-differential-mount-bushing-set-poly-75d-e30/">https://www.akgmotorsport.com/product/r ... y-75d-e30/</a><!-- m --> (with the RTAB30D set).
Should we start a go-fund me to finish off this project :wink: Also your rear calipers are seized... I could tell by the poor rear brake pad looks like a triangle.
2020 Ford Raptor
2009 Z06
1986.5 Porsche 928S
I'd like to thank this thread for curing me of my desire to get another e30. At least until I see a picture of a pretty one or something.
2001 M5
2016 M3
2014 Grand Cherokee
Been had: 1984 318i | 2003 S2000 | 1990 330is | 2005 STi | 2005 M3
2 steps forward...and then one step back. At least I got some time this weekend to work on it.
Subframe bushings ended up being a pain in the ass. They were seized into the frame, so I had to drill out the rubber to get the subframe down. sThen cut to releive tension, used heat, and ample use of the 5lb sledge knocked the bolts out and then the bushing popped out of the frame. Well...not all the bushing. An aluminum sleeve broke off in the frame. Using some heat, and a sacrificial bolt, I impacted the bolt into the sleeve and then sledged it out from the top. That was fun...
Now that the subframe was off, I was able to replace the long brake line going from the front to the rear (that took a while to bend up). Then the 2 short lines from the distribution block to the mid-lines.
Screwdriver and sledged out the remaining subframe bushing sleeves, and got to the trailing arm bushings. Using a vice and a 36MM socket (and some patience), they popped out mostly intact.
Forgot to take pictures cause I was in the groove, but AKG new trailing arm bushings greased up and iinstalled along with the new subframe bushings and brake lines fabbed meant I was able to pop back in the subframe and trailing arms. I was excited to finally be moving forward......... oh wait, the E30 had other ideas.
I went to install the driveshaft of which I took apart the 4-bolt E36 driveshaft and installed the new center support bearing. Lined up the guibo...and..wait.. SHIT!
The 4-bolt driveshaft provided is a 325i or 318i. This means where it bolts to the guibo is smaller and does not match the trans/guibo for this car. Don't know where Dave got it from but we will need to source another driveshaft before moving forward as the 6-bolt can't be taken apart like the 4-bolt. (and we would have to have it balanced again anyway).
So after getting frustrated that we hit another roadblock I went to the front of the car and wanted to see what I could do. Radiator mount doesnt come in till tuesday....ICV parts are not in yet...
So all I got to do was drop by advance, pick up a bunch of coolant hoses and made a hose from the heater core to the head and installed. I can see the finish lines but small things keep pushing it back. Since the brake lines and subframe are now back in the car I will start mocking up the exhaust to see what it needs modified to fit onto this car while I wait for the driveshaft.
2020 Ford Raptor
2009 Z06
1986.5 Porsche 928S
D_Eclipse9916 Wrote:I went to install the driveshaft of which I took apart the 4-bolt E36 driveshaft and installed the new center support bearing. Lined up the guibo...and..wait.. SHIT!
The 4-bolt driveshaft provided is a 325i or 318i. This means where it bolts to the guibo is smaller and does not match the trans/guibo for this car. Don't know where Dave got it from but we will need to source another driveshaft before moving forward as the 6-bolt can't be taken apart like the 4-bolt. (and we would have to have it balanced again anyway).
So after getting frustrated that we hit another roadblock I went to the front of the car and wanted to see what I could do. Radiator mount doesnt come in till tuesday....ICV parts are not in yet...
So all I got to do was drop by advance, pick up a bunch of coolant hoses and made a hose from the heater core to the head and installed. I can see the finish lines but small things keep pushing it back. Since the brake lines and subframe are now back in the car I will start mocking up the exhaust to see what it needs modified to fit onto this car while I wait for the driveshaft.
Well crap, Matthew thought that 4 bolt shaft was from a 328, which would have hopefully fit. I'm hitting some people up around here to see if I can find a 328 or 4 bolt m3 to work.
the ICV was in two boxes, one from FCP with the hoses and wire cover for the engine bay 1ZE8316YYW40086194 and the ICV itself was a small priority mail box I mailed. Which are we missing, or both? I'll check the car for the tracking number on the priority mail one.
[sorry about the subframe mess...]
With the driveshaft ordered and the subframe all back together; I went back to the front of the car for a couple hours last night.
I am glad I spaced out the engine a couple millimeters. In order to get the mid-pipe connected to the headers, the engine needs to be slightly lifted in order to clear the studs. Once that is done the midpipe slipped in, and I dropped the motor back down. There is about 5MM of space between it and the subframe. With the stiff trans mounts and direction of the motor it should actually help clearance. If not I will add a bit more spacer, but trying to keep the engine as low as possible.
Where the mid-pipe exits is going to be a problem; but nothing a welder can't fix. Waiting on the driveshaft before mocking up the rest of the exhaust.
Finished up the ICV, coolant routing, and wiring underneath the intake manifold and test-fit. Intake Manifold clears the brake booster just fine. Also finished up the wiring to the chassis with one exception of tapping in the abs wire that was provided in the adapter harness. Also gotta figure out the "cleanest" way to have the wiring go over the motor.
2020 Ford Raptor
2009 Z06
1986.5 Porsche 928S
Jess worked a little late yesterday so got to play for about an hour. Mocking up the coolant hoses and so I went to put in the radiator...and it wouldn't fit.
The car has been in an accident before destroying the low valence. It got pushed up so far that it folded under. Well, it has to be replaced anyway, why not see if I can bend it back enough for the radiator. Grabbed a ratchet strap, pulled up my truck, and about 10 minutes later, the radiator squeezes in and the valence is mostly straight. #thereifixedite30style
2020 Ford Raptor
2009 Z06
1986.5 Porsche 928S
I love the approach because it's totally something I'd do... but how does one ensure they don't pull the entire E30 off the lift with all dat Duramax torque?
Now:
'16 Ram 1500 | '97 BMW M3 | Some Press Loan
Then:
87 BMW 325e | 91 BMW 535i | 96 BMW 328i | 95 BMW 325i | 95 Mazda Miata | 13 Focus ST | 09 BMW 128i | 00 Pontiac Firebird | 05 Yukon Denali | 96 BMW 328iC | 11 Ford F-150 | 06 BMW M3 | 10 Range Rover SC | '03 Ford Ranger | '18 Ford F-150 | '01 BMW X5 | '98 Volvo S70 T5M
Jake Wrote:I love the approach because it's totally something I'd do... but how does one ensure they don't pull the entire E30 off the lift with all dat Duramax torque? According to FB he is just frontin' and used the duramax as an anchor. The straps did the work.
2019 Accord Sport 2.0 A/T
2012 Civic Si - Sold
body work with a truck and straps?! now we're getting to the good stuff! Should be ready for opening weekend at Spectator Drag Racing.
I figured you would appreciate it Dave. Was going to send you a message buy a new core support and I'll weld it in but figured this was more up your alley! Haha worked surprisingly well.
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2020 Ford Raptor
2009 Z06
1986.5 Porsche 928S
JPolen01 Wrote:Jake Wrote:I love the approach because it's totally something I'd do... but how does one ensure they don't pull the entire E30 off the lift with all dat Duramax torque? According to FB he is just frontin' and used the duramax as an anchor. The straps did the work.
Definitely a "hold my beer" moment, but not quite that bold! Also wanted a bit more finesse with how far to pull it out.
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2020 Ford Raptor
2009 Z06
1986.5 Porsche 928S
Getting there! Driveshaft came in with a new E30 Center Support Bearing. Great to finally have the latest little bits coming in for parts!
Popped the driveshaft in, and bolted in the driveshaft. Swapped to new fluids in the Differential and Transmission and went to bolt on the axles......damnit. Wrong axle washers, so have to wait on a package from Dave.
Went back out front since that was a no-starter. Spent a little time making some aluminum mounts for the Coolant Tank and mounted that on the driver's side reducing the length of coolant hoses. Finished up the rest of the coolant hoses, and filled her up with coolant and water. to test for leaks. No leaks! Success!
Moved on to the braking system and clutch system. Filled it up with brake fluid and pressured with a Motive Power Bleeder. Immediately the stock line for the fluid feed for the master started leaking. It split at the entry, luckily a bit extra line was there so I cut off about 1/2 inch and resecured with a fuel line clamp. Repressurized the system and went to the back to mock up the exhaust. Bolted the front half and mocked up the rear. The header to mid-pipe connection contacts the body and the rear section will need some mounts welded up to the canister. The exit is dual exhaust and much wider than the stock body outlet, confirmed with Dave he wants to cut out the stock rear valence for the muffler.
No leaks from brakes led me to go ahead and start bleeding. Right rear went well, left rear...huh. Opened up the bleeder a bit more..no fluid...a bit more..no fluid.. Crap. Hit it with a dead blow a couple times, no dice. Had a friend over doing his clutch and flywheel so I had him jab the brake pedal. Nothing. Pulled off the bleeder valve completely, and noticed crap blocking the port. Used a pick and "popped" the corossion. Repressurized and it pushed out most the crap. That said, I would still probably replace the caliper. This is the same one that was sticking. Bled the rest of the brakes and bled the clutch with no more issues.
Finished up the intake system, and wanted to test fire before buttoning it up. As nothing else on this car had proved straightforward. Hooked up the ECU, a good battery and unhooked the fuel pump. Turned it over a bunch to get oil primed and then rehooked the fuel pump up. After a couple of rotations the engine fired.
CACKALAKCLAKCKALCL. The Lifters were LOUD! The engine was running extremely rough. and killed it immediately. I was concerned the motor wasn't getting oil. I know it was sitting for a while in unkown conditions. I popped off the oil filter housing to verify oil as pumping...WHEW! Fresh oil in the oil filter housing. Probably just "first start" roughness. I then remembered the car had been sitting even longer than the motor. So I grabbed 5 gallons of fresh gas and popped it in. Started it up again and after a couple minutes started quieting down and smoothing out.
That's when I noticed fuel starting to puddle underneath the car. GRRR. One of the original fuel lines from the gas tank to the new fuel lines had burst. On closer inspection dry rot had taken it's toll. Luckily there was JUST enough left I could cut off a 3 inch portion and reconnect it. I would suggest replacing those lines at some point to avoid sitting on the side of the road. If I get some time I will replace them.
Fired it back up and it kept smoothing out more and more. Probably needs a good italian tune up but it was running decently smooth and no lights on the dash. Let it run for about 15 minutes and turned it off. Some clean up work to do over next weekend (this week ill be in Colorado), fan wiring, exhaust modification, and cleaning up the wiring. Then to try to put together tthe front end...I saw machine screws in the baggies, not excited about doing that hah.
Looks awesome!
2020 Ford Raptor
2009 Z06
1986.5 Porsche 928S
sweet! man you work fast dude. i've been sitting here looking at a new clutch kit for the impreza on my workbench for a year now, and you've knocked out like 10 different systems on the car before an afternoon beer. haha
2010 Civic Si
2019 4Runner TRD Off-Road
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Past: 03 Xterra SE 4x4 | 05 Impreza 2.5RS | 99.5 A4 Quattro 1.8T | 01 Accord EX | 90 Maxima GXE | 96 Explorer XLT
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