As far as the P/S line goes...I had planned on having fisher in Bridgewater make me a closed loop line, as Jeff suggested. But how could I implement some kind of vent in that system, RJ? Opinions wanted. Pictures and website references rewarded.
1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass 442
Put a "T" in the middle of the line and vent it, or run it to a breather or catch can.
(09-25-2019, 03:18 PM)V1GiLaNtE Wrote: I think you need to see a mental health professional.
.RJ Wrote:Put a "T" in the middle of the line and vent it, or run it to a breather or catch can.
But wouldn't that result in a continual loss of fluid?
1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass 442
The rack should have very little fluid in it
(09-25-2019, 03:18 PM)V1GiLaNtE Wrote: I think you need to see a mental health professional.
.RJ Wrote:The rack should have very little fluid in it
But my rack needs lubrication!
1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass 442
What are you lubricating? If you are not pumping p/s fluid through the rack, then what is there to keep fluid on?
(09-25-2019, 03:18 PM)V1GiLaNtE Wrote: I think you need to see a mental health professional.
.RJ Wrote:What are you lubricating? If you are not pumping p/s fluid through the rack, then what is there to keep fluid on?
The internal workings of the rack itself?
Presumably there's a pinion gear in a "rack and pinion" rack.
1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass 442
Yes but you dont need to lather pinion gear with fluid to lubricate it - it sees very little heat and load.
A steering rack is a very simple device, and without the "power" part there isnt much to take care of.
(09-25-2019, 03:18 PM)V1GiLaNtE Wrote: I think you need to see a mental health professional.
manual racks are not lubricated.
SM guys who convert their power racks to manual drain every drop of fluid out and plug the lines.
Wonder if you could force some spray lithium grease into the system to keep it happy?
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PDenbigh Wrote:Wonder if you could force some spray lithium grease into the system to keep it happy?
Unnecessary, at best. I ran a dry "makeshift manual" for 5 years with no problems whatsoever.
FWIW, a true manual rack is so much easier to drive (especially around the paddock) than a power rack converted to manual.
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Do you have P/S Pete?
Jeff Morrison - Used Car Manager
Woodstock Garage, Inc.
Chrysler - Dodge - Jeep - RAM
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well I'm glad to see some of you say a dry or partially dry rack is ok. I was never quite sure what to do and how it would hold up when I removed my p/s. I just closed it off to keep dirt and dust out.
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I did mine completely the "wrong" way compared to what you'll see BMW forum people worrying about. I just cut the two hoses, filled the banjo bolts with JB-weld, topped off the rack with fluid, and cranked 'em back on there. Sealed. No loop. Full of fluid. That was over 3 years ago and it's still feeling great. Still full of fluid too when I checked a year or so ago. Smooth and easy to to steer at anything over 1MPH.
It is my personal oppinion that you cannot do it wrong. Fluid, no fluid, or replace with grease like the bimmerworld guys used to do. Loop, no loop... vent? The vent's a new one to me. But any of them are fine.
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I would do anything but vent. All it will do is blow the fluid out each time you turn the rack. If filling it up and plugging it works....that sounds like the way to go!
Jeff Morrison - Used Car Manager
Woodstock Garage, Inc.
Chrysler - Dodge - Jeep - RAM
Current Stable of Mopar Junk
57 Chrysler Windsor 4drHT - 67 Dodge D100 Short Bed Step Side - 71 Dodge Challenger - 91 Chrysler Lebaron LX 33k mile Survivor - 91 Dodge Dakota V8 - 05 Chrysler Crossfire Roadster - 08 Ram 2500 Cummins
Forgive my ignorance, but what is the advantage of deleting the power steering? From what I heard the concensus was to leave it be. How much power to you gain from deleting it, or it a steering feel issue? Please inform me (not saracstic).
-Peter
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xvxax Wrote:Forgive my ignorance, but what is the advantage of deleting the power steering? From what I heard the concensus was to leave it be. How much power to you gain from deleting it, or it a steering feel issue? Please inform me (not saracstic).
-Peter
On page 7 I gave my reasoning for the delete. It has nothing to do with power, although if I free a few horses I won't complain. It has mainly to do with me being a cheap bastard and not wanting to pay for an M50 power steering pump, reservoir, and the line voodoo required to make it work for my swap. Plus, my engine bay is cleaned up, it's one less fluid I have to worry about keeping full, one less leak I have to trace down, one less part of the swap to screw up, and it saves me 100 bucks to boot. The only downside is the extra effort required to parallel park.
1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass 442
TurboOmni08 Wrote:I would do anything but vent. All it will do is blow the fluid out each time you turn the rack. If filling it up and plugging it works....that sounds like the way to go!
The vent is there to vent the air pressure in the rack cylinders as the wheel is turning back and forth. Fluid won't blow out because there won't be very much in the rack and there's no pump to create the pressure.
Two feet.
O'RLY?! When I took the pump off the Daytona to clean it up I wanted to get all the fluid out of the rack. I turned the wheel lock to lock about 10 times...and what did I have on the floor? A BIG FREAKING MESS. So don't tell me a rack won't pump fluid out...assuming he fills it up...then vents it. If you are leaving it empty then venting is fine...no problem there. But its already been said this is not the best way to go, filling it and plugging it seems to be, or running it dry. It seems to me that because there are rubber seals in there that need lube it makes the most sense to either plug it or hook the two lines together (already said that is really un-needed also).
Jeff Morrison - Used Car Manager
Woodstock Garage, Inc.
Chrysler - Dodge - Jeep - RAM
Current Stable of Mopar Junk
57 Chrysler Windsor 4drHT - 67 Dodge D100 Short Bed Step Side - 71 Dodge Challenger - 91 Chrysler Lebaron LX 33k mile Survivor - 91 Dodge Dakota V8 - 05 Chrysler Crossfire Roadster - 08 Ram 2500 Cummins
TurboOmni08 Wrote:O'RLY?! When I took the pump off the Daytona to clean it up I wanted to get all the fluid out of the rack. I turned the wheel lock to lock about 10 times...and what did I have on the floor? A BIG FREAKING MESS. So don't tell me a rack won't pump fluid out...assuming he fills it up...then vents it. If you are leaving it empty then venting is fine...no problem there. But its already been said this is not the best way to go, filling it and plugging it seems to be, or running it dry. It seems to me that because there are rubber seals in there that need lube it makes the most sense to either plug it or hook the two lines together (already said that is really un-needed also).
Dammit Jeff, get your head out of your ass.
The rubber seals dont need lube because they arent being used to seal the rack against high pressure power steering fluid being forced through it. Thats it. You could just take the rack apart and remove all the p/s seals and drill out the pressure orafices and such, but most of us are too lazy for that, and taking steering racks out sucks.
When you turn the steering rack, and fluid is pumping out, what do you think happens when the rack is full and the lines are plugged? You are forcing fluid through the rack and without the assist of the pump, its working against you. So... run it dry, or fill it halfway and vent it.
(09-25-2019, 03:18 PM)V1GiLaNtE Wrote: I think you need to see a mental health professional.
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