Project: Integra Type Dickbutt

[Kaan]

"Major progress" has been made... well sorta. we kicked off a pretty messy labor intensive "anti rust" project. we need to hit coat two tonight. we are getting some practice in with the eastwood spray and monstaliner chassis saver before we have to do it to the truck and the jeep

before we could get into any of that the AC was removed, the rear end was repaired/prepped, front end was stripped down and prepped. I've continued my daily soaking of the bolts with PB and Kroil... hopefully the suspension and brakes come off easily. pictures will be put up one of these days.

[Kaan]

success! but it took some work... more than just following instructions.... FU exhaust manifold stud!




so when you own a Honda.. eventually the thin Japanese metal meets the elements and bad stuff happens. someone had tired to fix this before. if it was maaco, it only lasted 5 years (which is longer than their paint lol)


they don't make replacement/weld in quarters for the integra... you can cut fronts and fit them but its a pain. so I'm going to try to chassis save it, bondo, and see what happens. if I have to I will cut fronts and weld them in.


at some point the rear of the car was hit a little hard. the lower rear bumper supports had been twisted and popped their pinch welds. some of the other pinch welds were showing signs of weakening/rusting... so...


this is what happens when you have a ruffed paint to seal.


this is what happens when you don't do anything to prep (other then cleaning it)....and have to do it all over again!



I want to clean and do a second coat on the inner fenders before I roll them and seal them (hopefully for good).

still soaking bolts and mentally preparing myself for a crappy weekend (next weekend). this new job has got me working even when I get home, so I've only got weekends to work on this thing right now.

[navin]

Looks like you need a headgasket as well... trololol. Gonna top-coat the wheel wells and shit in black?

Also, dont they make 'patch panels' for rust fixing?

[Kaan]

After the suspension is pulled ill hand clean and coat the wheel wells.

That "bad hg" is left overs from the cam seal that had crapped out. The top i sprayed with a little brake clean to make sure it wasn't leaking. What you see was under the exhaust manifold/heat shield

I looked around and didn't find patches

[navin]

I'd coat it a different color than black -- you know I'm particular to the battleship grey color. Help you find leaks/axle problems when/if it happens easier.

[Kaan]

Just spray bomb it after I coat it. No biggie

[Kaan]

For those of you thinking about using this anti rust stuff... Go with the Monstaliner Chassis Saver and not the Eastwood stuff. the east wood stuff seems to be an expensive paint that isn't holding up on the bumpers (I've painted them and left them out in the rain to see what happens).

the Monstaliner stuff has a serious shell when you are done. it feels like a good coating. my only issue is that it doesn't have UV protection so you need to coat over it. if its going to see the sun a lot.

[HAULN-SS]

I have used the KBS system with pretty good success, if you're looking for an alternative

[Kaan]

So at Tur-MF-Ducken... some of you saw the current state of the integra. After alcohol... some really jealous folks drew regular old penises on the car. After some alcohol AND artistry... someone added a legit Dickbutt to the mural.



if anyone is down to wrench, I'm working on the dickbutt this weekend. I have a freezer full of tasty meat and I have intimate knowledge of the beer aisle a the local grocery store.

[rherold9]

I would if I wasn't flying out Saturday.

It was bound to happen though with how dirty the car was. If you available the 29th-30th we could do a wrenching weekend on dickbutt and punk-ass Ryan's car? Shoot me a text.

[*insertusernamehere*]

I would if I had a car to make it up there

[Kaan]

I stripped the rear passenger side, sealed it, swapped the trailing arm bushing (used the BFH tool), swapped brake lines, put in the new wheel studs,etc... reassembled. If I wasn't sealing up the chassis I think I would have gotten the whole car done... but its 4 hours of dry time before you can mess with it.

I spent those 4 hours working on the trailing arm bushing and control arm bushings. I eventually had to sand the coating off the trailing arm bushing so it would fit right... and I'm punting the control arms to the machine shop... I just don't have the right combination to push out the bushing and when I added heat while it was under tension it didn't budge either.

My kid brother is going to be in town for thanksgiving, I'm going to put him to work!

[Kaan]

I got the control arms back from the shop last night. This old guy that runs the place said its the worst set of bushings he's ever had to replace. One he had to smoke out and then chisel the outer band. I don't feel so bad now.

hopefully this weekend I can get the suspension wrapped up (I need to front upper arms though) and get the exhaust routed.

[D_Eclipse9916]

Just wondering, are you building this to a class or just get out there and have fun?

It looks like we have some renewed enthusiasm for going racing from some of the alumni.

[Kaan]

well first and foremost I need to get back out there. Yes its been a long time, but I'm at a point in my life where I can afford to do it, especially locally (aka Summit events).

What its being built for??? mostly track fun and track reliability but eventually I'd "love" to TT then wheel to wheel. All my chassis prep is to ensure the tub is solid (and stays solid) and eventually get a rollbar/cage installed. TT feels like a long way out. I havent driven in a while so who knows when i'll get signed off to TT. I'm also not 100% sold that this B motor and trans will hold up for any real duration. I'd like them to hold up long enough to invest the $300 in a K motor rebuild.... then do the swap. Only God will know if that will happen.

For TT, with the B motor and "all my parts" ... its an E car with 4 points to spare, running 205 hoohoos (SCCA SM takeoffs). I got a header for "free" and a really cheap intake set up... but I refuse to spend more on a motor that I don't intend to keep. With the swap, the car will get hosed by Greg, but I know this going into it. Even when I get to TT its more about fun and getting better, I don't have to win to be happy, I just have to be "getting better."

HC is dead, but I'd still run it or PT, depending on who shows up for what. I think as long as I have "someone" to race I'd be happy. With the K motor it would be H1, with the B motor it would be the slowest car out there without a ton of money in each motor being run to the edge (they fucked up HC classes IMHO). For the long term, K motors are the more cost effective and reliable motors that will keep you "competitive."

[Kaan]

I also ordered a fender roller and fender finisher on black Friday.

[navin]

updates fail

[Kaan]

Sorry... I went too big in the kickball playoffs and broke-ish a finger and a toe lol... spinning a wrench was painful for a couple of weeks. plus my new promotion blows for the hours I have to put in. BUT....

Today through the weekend i'll be working on the whip. if anyone wants to help feel free to show up. I know Cabell is coming Friday night. Hopefully i'll be doing the exhaust and getting the interior prepped by then.

[Kaan]

Fix'n some stuff... breaking some stuff... pics to come later tonight. how I don't have the bolts I had to cut/heat/extract i'll never know. time to order some parts.

[Kaan]

The rear of Hondas can be such a pain in the ass… usually because bolts seize in the bushings. On the passenger side only had the shock bolt get stuck but the drivers side… well they all got stuck except the bolt mounting to the subframe (thank God).

Here is the passenger side… New caliper, lines, rotor, ARP wheel studs, and trailing arm bushing installed. Waiting on new bolts to install the shocks


Breaking bolts on the drivers side, where the rear lower control arm mounts to the hub… we will get back to this


Drivers side is out… lots of messy crap.


The trailing arm bushing is “well used.” Essentially you mark where they current bushing is “clocked” and then measure how deep it is sitting. Pound it out with a BFH… beat the crap out of the new one has you use the BFH to get it back in… I did use heat and found that I needed to take the coating off the hardrace trailing arm bushing to make it fit.


Pressing out the old studs…


SO… the masses of the internet tell you that cutting the rear lower bolts out take a TON of sawzall blades… they fail. I just abused one USED blade until the blade and the bolt submitted!


After its cut you still need to remove the rest of it. it’s a lot easier since it probably isn’t frozen at the nut, they are usually frozen in the bushing… I still added heat to make sure it came out easier.






I’ve already started sealing this side of the chassis and the exhaust tunnel. It should be dry by tomorrow so I can start wrapping up the rear drivers side and start up front.

PS – this is what happens when you ignore a leaking sunroof for YEARS… hopefully I get a patch in there this weekend