Das Race: My '97 M3/4/5

[getfast]

I still say it's because you didn't get the gearbox fully warmed up. Sun in your eyes during a rain session is pretty rare. :wink:

[Jake]

I still say it's because you didn't get the gearbox fully warmed up. Sun in your eyes during a rain session is pretty rare. :wink:

Oh, cold gearbox was definitely a contributing factor.

[D_Eclipse9916]

My reaction to Jake telling me he was at 38 psi cold. hock:

[xvxax]

If you don't mind a lil' color mis-match, there are fenders for days at Crazy Rays. See plenty of black 4 doors. Just gotta find one that hasn't been dented by the forklifts or ruined by someone pulling something else. Or you could just use car-part.com too.

I ran 22psi wet, 32psi dry hot on Z1s with a lot of camber with good wear and pyro results. You might need a little more pressure than that without camber but those are comparatively really stiff street tires for sure.

[Jake]

Mileage: 146,350ish

Had a blast this past weekend at the NASA Fall Finale at Summit Point. Put ~189 miles on the car by going in a 2-mile loop. She was pressed into service as TT Slayer (perhaps a bit generous of a term), HPDE 3 Ride Machine, and Das Pacecar.

Some things I learned:

1. ATE Super Blue is less Super than I thought. Pedal feel really sucks once it gets hot and I think I'm boiling it. DJ recommended I switch to Wilwood, and I'm doing that ASAP. The pads themselves are wonderful though.

2. Star Specs, with less pressure in them, are a great tire.

3. The car weighs 3,370 lbs with me in it and most of a tank of gas. This should go down once I install the safety gear and yank half the interior out.

4. My rear shocks are mis-matched to the rest of the suspension, and it showed at Summit. The car is on TCKline S/A coilovers. At some point, one of the rear shock towers ripped out, and was welded back in. The shop replaced the rear shocks with OEM Bilsteins... which means (I think...) the rear shocks can't deal with the rear spring rate. So, if you hit a little bump at speed, the rear gets a bit light and floaty and when you let DJ borrow your car, he will have to make a choice to possibly crash it, or spin it mid-track and come to a stop. This needs to be fixed before the spring, for sure. I don't know if I want to keep the TCKline setup or go with a more conventional H&R/Koni setup.

5. I need safety gear right meow. I wasn't pushing as hard as I could have, as the fear of *crunch* was on my mind. I've located a rollbar and seats, and I have 6-points already, so that can all be installed this winter.

6. I was about 7 seconds off the pace for the lead TTD driver, which, given my weight, n00bishness and not-pushing-too-hard-because-stock-seatbelts, I think is okay.

7. There is a clunk from the rear when I turn hard under load. It comes about half a second after turn-in. The Miata was notorious for eating sway bar end links, and that was the noise you'd get when they were busted. I'm wondering if this is the same issue. The end links are presumably original so I would not be surprised.

Overall, great end to the season. I wish this wasn't the last event, but I'm looking forward to some down time to really prep the car the way it should be prepped. I'm making a list of what needs doing, and hopefully I can knock it all out this winter. Rock on.

[Jake]

The "safety gear" wheels are in motion! I have a rollbar in my basement and one seat + mounting hardware coming soon. Need to find a passenger seat still.

The rollbar is a Kirk Racing bar that comes from another NASA friend. It was removed when he had a cage welded in and went "real racing" last year. I need to get mounting hardware for it. I called Kirk and they specified Grade 5 bolts that are 1.25" long and have a 3/8 head.

Still need backing plates and washers/nuts. Any tips on what I should get there?

[getfast]

I can measure the backing plates on the Kirk in mine, if it helps. They were surprisingly heavy/thick, much more so than the ones that come with Autopower bars.

I need to remove all that stuff to add silicone and re-tighten anyway.

[Jake]

I can measure the backing plates on the Kirk in mine, if it helps. They were surprisingly heavy/thick, much more so than the ones that come with Autopower bars.

I need to remove all that stuff to add silicone and re-tighten anyway.

Yeah, that'd be great if you could. I may see if the Kirk guys will just sell me the plates/bolts/stuff if I send them some money. Would certainly be less hassle.

[getfast]

Also I hope your seat install goes better than mine did. Sparco Ergo II (i.e. fatboy model) is touching the b-pillar even with all the trim and seatbelt stuff removed. Can't get it any moar inboard and need it moar far back... but can't get there without some creative application of force (particularly to those purty VAC side mounts.)

[getfast]

Yeah, that'd be great if you could. I may see if the Kirk guys will just sell me the plates/bolts/stuff if I send them some money. Would certainly be less hassle.

That would be the easy button. "I has moneys. Send me parts." No business can resist that sort of inquiry :thumbup:

[Jake]

Also I hope your seat install goes better than mine did. Sparco Ergo II (i.e. fatboy model) is touching the b-pillar even with all the trim and seatbelt stuff removed. Can't get it any moar inboard and need it moar far back... but can't get there without some creative application of force (particularly to those purty VAC side mounts.)

My driver's seat is going to be a Corbeau FX1 Pro. Should fit alright, looks a bit slimmer than your pimpy new seat. The guy I'm buying it from has it installed in a coupe (which obviously allows an easier fit) but it doesn't look too huge.

[navin]

I'd at least get Grade 8 bolts... try a Fastenal (there is one in Chantilly).

Backing plates -- Kirk can't supply those?

[getfast]

Oh yeah, +1 on the grade 8 stuff. I replaced all that on mine (also a used Kirk pulled out of a DE car before it was caged at Bimmerworld) with bits I found at Lowe's.

[Jake]

Alright, spent today ripping the interior out and drilling some holes. The amount of cursing and sledgehammer required to fit this thing is ridiculous, but I got the roll bar installed.

First I did this:



Then I did this:



And then this:



The rollbar is fully installed. Seat needs tweaking to fit properly for my height. And I still need to drill for harnesses. But hooray, progress!

[premiershine9]

Looks awesome man!

[D_Eclipse9916]

Woot!

[Jake]

Alright, I'm making a list of stuff that needs doing so I can be semi-publicly held accountable. I would like to get a lot of this done before the February 2nd autocross in Richmond, but due to money needing to go elsewhere, and my lack of interest in playing wrench-monkey in such cold weather, it may or may not all happen.

Must-Haves by Feb. 2
• Get driver's seat bolted down where I want it
• Install driver's side 6-point harness
• Change transmission & differential fluid

To Do by March 21 - First NASA Weekend of 2014 Season
• Refresh shifter with all-new bushings
• Install new tie rods + get car re-aligned
• Change suspension from busted-ass half-of-a-TCKline setup to H&R Sport/Koni Yellow

Sometime when I get the time and money...
• Install passenger seat & harnesses
• Lower control arms
• Rear sway bar bushings & end links
• Drop oil pan, replace oil pump nut with safety-wired nut, replace oil pan gasket

The fun never ends.

[xvxax]

Is the switch to H&R sport temporary or permanent? Those spring rates are pretty low.

[Jake]

Is the switch to H&R sport temporary or permanent? Those spring rates are pretty low.

It'd be at least for the 2014 season. The H&R Sport + Koni combo is kinda universally considered a good idea, from what I've heard. I would consider the H&R Race but Joey had them and they rode so poorly.

[getfast]

I had that setup on my avus. Good idea for street or limited dual duty. Too soft for track.