Project: 2003 BMW M3

[D_Eclipse9916]

:thumbup: And thank god you have the aluminum trim interior. We had to swap my mom's because the "titanium paint" crap looked awful.

PS- My mom's subframe isn't cracked at 120,000 miles now when I swapped the diff. And with how hard SMG slams, I am actually surprised.

[RawrImAMonster]

Hmm, the company I want to get headers from is doing a 15% off deal until the end of the month. It would end up being $1100 for the headers and a tune by Frank Smith.

That may have just answered my question as to which mods I'm doing first. :twisted:

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[Beej]

Those are some of the best 100k+ seats I've seen; they look like a pair with far fewer miles. It almost looks like the driver's outer bolster has been re-stuffed. Driver's side may be a bit shiny - if they haven't been re-dyed or anything, some Leatherique may really make it pop.

Headers and Frank Smith seem to be all the rage these days. I'll be looking forward to seeing what you think!

[RawrImAMonster]

Yeah I will definitely be doing the leather treatment method Dan posted sometime this spring. I'm going to be doing a clean up in general. There are a few cleat coat scratches I want to use a clear coat pen on and I want to get some spots touched up in general.

I did end up ordering those headers plus the TTFS tune. I'm guessing they will get here sometime late this month since they make them to order. Hopefully I'll have time to put them on over one of the holiday weeks. I'm also going to try to take care of the subframe mount reinforcement during this time.

I should also be able to use the cable that comes with that tune to program my car. I need to work on getting INPA and NCSExpert and all that stuff set up. Apparently it's a pain. I can't wait to turn off the daytime running lights and that damn 37 degree beep.

The car doesn't shift as well as I think it could. I may try to talk to Jamie from pale fire to see if I can drive his down the street or if he'll drive mine and tell me if its similar. I think he lives like a block away from me because I've seen a black m3 setting around out there. Either way, I might just do the clutch master and slave since they are probably 125k miles old and are only $150 for both.

[Beej]

Hopefully I'll have time to put them on over one of the holiday weeks. I'm also going to try to take care of the subframe mount reinforcement during this time.

That...will be a week to remember. Two pretty big jobs!

I'll be following your coding progress closely. Now that (I think?) I have two cars that would need the same hardware/software, I'm sure I could find a few little things to do on each. I've always wanted one-touch-close on the rear windows of the e46. I've never looked into coding in depth...information was always just a little scattered and that was enough to turn me away. Then again, I didn't have the DRL's, which I would've wanted turned off immediately too. :lol:

On the shifter, the price and ease of installation of the e46 330d lever was tough to beat IMO. I always thought master/slave cylinders were an on/off thing (either they work or they don't), not something that could necessarily affect shifting? Do you know what fluid is in the transmission?

[Jake]

I always thought master/slave cylinders were an on/off thing (either they work or they don't), not something that could necessarily affect shifting? Do you know what fluid is in the transmission?

If the seals on one or both are starting to fail, you may still have the ability to disengage the clutch, but not 100%, due to lack of pressure to push the assembly fully apart. Sometimes pumping the clutch pedal twice will help with that although obviously at that point, you'd want to replace the offending part.

Seems like the BMW stuff usually leaks a bit before it just goes out - the Miata slave was the exact opposite. One day of pretty high shift/clutch effort and then I had nothing.

[*insertusernamehere*]

What exactly do you mean by not shifting right tho, Stephen?

[RawrImAMonster]

Second/third gear seems to be rough every once in a while. Either from the clutch not fully disengaging or the syncrhos being worn. It never has a problem shifting at high rpms at all, just when you're cruising around. On the other hand, all of my BMW's have had somewhat rough gears in second so maybe it's just something I'll have to live with on this particular transmission.

Also, I doubt the CDV has been removed yet, so I'll have to take that out next time I'm under the car.

[.RJ]

Change the fluid, first. I have been using Motul Motylgear for the past 6 months or so in my Audi, and it's helped the shifting, especially when cold. They have an issue where the 1-2 blocker ring is really 'tight' on the input shaft until things start to warm up. I have no desire to rebuild this fucking transmission so I've tried a few different fluids.

[RawrImAMonster]

According to the previous owner, it was done recently, but I may have to do that at some point. A lot of people run ATF in these to help smooth things out, but I feel like that would make the transmission wear faster.

[.RJ]

A lot of people run ATF in these to help smooth things out, but I feel like that would make the transmission wear faster.

Stick to the MFR specs. Some take ATF, some GL4, some Motor oil... redline shockproof may be an option to research too.

[SlimKlim]

According to the previous owner, it was done recently, but I may have to do that at some point. A lot of people run ATF in these to help smooth things out, but I feel like that would make the transmission wear faster.

Is it mostly when cold or 100% of the time? My car has always had a notchy trans, which I've always attributed to its mileage. It is very notchy when the fluid is cold, and if it has been sitting outside when the temp drops below freezing you literally have to double clutch it to shift somewhat smoothly for the first five minutes. Once it gets up to temp though it's fine, it just requires a somewhat delicate touch to kinda let the gear accept your shift, instead of just ramming it in there.

The E36s actually calls for ATF in the manual trans, I think mine has a mix of Redline ATF and MTL in there right now, trying out some forum recommendation. Pelican says "Swepco 201" can smooth out worn synchros and extend the life of a trans so I might try that next.

[RawrImAMonster]

Mostly when it's cold but it's always fairly notchy. Sadly (or surprisingly) I think the best shifting car that I've ever driven was a 1997 Cobra. I actually really enjoyed the motor and transmission in that car. Nice long gears, super smooth shifter and a 7k redline made for a fun drive.

[*insertusernamehere*]

I wanna say you're fine. My e36 also was a rough shifter. When the slave cyl was actually starting to go you could tell. It just wouldn't go in gear. And when it did it sounded like all the gears cracked in half. You'd have to do an extra pump or 2 like Jake said. Normal cold shifting was just a firm tug, hold and ohp shes in.

[.RJ]

From the BaT comments -

This swap has become quite common with the Lexus IS cars as well. Went to Cars and Coffee a few months back and saw 4 IS LS swapped cars lined up together. It’s an odd combo, but it sounds nasty when the loud pedal is pressed down hard.

I'm intrigued.

[ScottyB]

I'm intrigued.

will you just get your damn 996TT and be done with it

[CaptainHenreh]

From the BaT comments -

This swap has become quite common with the Lexus IS cars as well. Went to Cars and Coffee a few months back and saw 4 IS LS swapped cars lined up together. It’s an odd combo, but it sounds nasty when the loud pedal is pressed down hard.

I'm intrigued.

Requires standalone, slash two ecu's. Not a big deal, but that, and the headers are a bit tight. (twss)

[Apoc]

I'm intrigued.

will you just get your damn 996TT and be done with it

I liked the part where the most laid back dude here got a little rustled at RJs inability to sack up.

[WRXtranceformed]

IS is the only car where I prefer to see a huge single turbo GTE instead of an LS swap.

[ScottyB]

I'm intrigued.

fine. here. its 2 hours away from me, i'll go do burnouts in it for you and give him your money.
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this is why we can't have nice things. sorry for the threadjack.