Dj's 1999 M3 Project

[PDenbigh]

Looking great DJ!

[D_Eclipse9916]

Small update: Came home from Charlotte, NC fairly early and was home by 4 oclock Sunday, meaning I had some time to spend on cars. Didnt feel like moving around cars to knock out the gsx, and just had done oil change and waiting on a new soldering gun to put the Avic Z2 in the Denali. So that left the M3 that has been sitting in the garage. Threw on the heater in the garage and called up Mike D to work on cars and of course drink some beer.

After 153,000 miles and a very hard season of autocrossing with some road course work, the rear upper ball joints were toast. I had planned on doing a rear end suspension refresh this winter anyway so it couldnt have come at a better time. Also I wanted to check out my rear trailing arm pockets and rear control arms to see if they had ripped and bent respectively.

Propped her in the air and got to work. I am going to lay this out in a DIY type of format as I know a few of the e36 guys on this forum are interested on how to do all of this. All told it took about 2.5/3 hours of leisurely working to knock this out.

Tools Needed:
Female Torx Bit Set
Male Allen Bit Set
18MM wrench
1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 socket wrenches and small extensions
1/2 Breaker Bar
18MM socket in both 1/2" and 3/8"
15MM socket in both 1/2" and 3/8"
19MM socket in both 1/2" and 3/8"
21MM socket in both 1/2" and 3/8"
10MM wrench and 1/4" socket
13MM wrench and 3/8 socket
Jack and Jack Stands


1. 1/2 turn loosen Rear lug nuts (or bolts if your still using them), but do not loosen them more than that or take them off. (Remember weight is still on them!)
2. Jack the vehicle up using the metal bar under the differential. This is part of the subframe and can support the weight.
3. Put jack stands under both sides of where the stock jack pucks are and lower the jack onto them. Make sure it is stable as youll be under it!
4. You will remove the cat-back exhaust using a 13mm wrench and socket to undo the cat-back to mid-pipe bolts. Then using the same wrench and socket, remove the rubber hangers (careful as the exhaust is heavy and it is coming off).
5. Remove lug nuts/bolts and take off wheels and set aside.
6. Remove the (2) bolts that secure the brake line to the trailing arm using a 10mm socket on both sides of the vehicle (from now on indicated as L/R)
7. (L/R) Locate the Rear Lower Control Arm (looks like a set of tongs and goes from under the axle to the middle of the subframe next to axle). Remove the eccentric bolt that holds the lower control arm to the hub (the bolt under the axle). Use an 18mm wrench on the bolt, and unscrew the nut using an 18MM socket 3/8". You can also remove the plastic covers if their still on them by just popping them off with your hands.
8. (L/R) Locate the Rear Lower Control Arm's upper bolt. Using an 18MM wrench or socket loosen this bolt so that you may wiggle the Rear Lower Control Arm off the hub.
9. (L/R) Using an 18(?)mm socket remove the lower shock bolt that connects to the hub. Pop off shock off hub and either let hang or remove shock assembly by using a 13mm wrench on the top shock nuts.
10. (L/R) Using a 15(?)mm socket and 3/8 extension remove the (2) bolts that hold the caliper to the hub. Now snake the caliper wiith its line so that you can either hang the caliper using wire or twine, or if there is enough length to the brake line, let it lay on the floor out of the way.
11. (L/R) Locate the black plastic box on the subframe located above the axle and near the upper control arm. Pop cover off using small screwdriver or hands. On the left you should see one plastic connector, on the right hand side there will be two. Pop all of these wires out of the box and disconnect them all.
12. Go to the Center console inside the vehicle and pop off the emergency brake handle boot. Underneath you will see two lengths of cable connected to the lever and held in each by a nut. Remove both nuts completely using deep well 10mm socket or wrench.
13. (L/R) Here is where having an extra person is handy so you dont need to get up off the ground and into the car every 20 seconds. Use your Female Torx Bits and remove all (6) torx bit bolts per side that secure the axle to the differential. Put the car into gear to hold the diff steady. You will notice there is not much clearance to remove all of them at once. Pop the trans out of gear again, and by hand spin the rotors or driveshaft to rotate the bolts so that you may access them. Once all the bolts are removed, smack the axle or wiggle it to pop it out of the cup.
14. Using the same procedure for access to the axle bolts, remove the 4 (or 6 if your a 95 m3) driveshaft to differential nuts using an 18mm wrench.
15. Find the two e-brake cables that run up to the car and tug (do not tug too much) and they should slide out completely and lay to the side. Their other side is connected to inside the rotor hat, but removing them from the car is a much easier process than reassembling the emergency brake shoes. If these are stuck, it most likely is where it meets the chassis underneath the car. I found that wiggling it and a light smack with the breaker bar popped them out.
16. (L/R) Now remove the stock sway bar. First remove the links to the sway bar suing an 18(?)mm wrench and 15(?)mm socket to take the nut off. Then remove the 13mm nuts that hold the sway bar to the subframe. Once removed, just wiggle out the brackets and sway bar.
17. (L/R) Loosen (DO NOT REMOVE!) using that good ole trusty 18MM wrench and socket, the upper control arm bolt and nut that secures the upper control arm to the knuckle. At this point you can also remove the rear springs from their perch.
18. (L/R) Loosen (DO NOT REMOVE!) using an 18mm socket and extension (may need to use breaker bar) the 3 bolts that bolt the rear trailing arm to the chassis.
19. (L/R) Grab your friend or jack to support the hub/axle/rear trailing arm/ebrake cable assembly and remove in order, the 3 rear trailing arm bolts, and the upper control arm bolt and nut. You can now remove that whole asembly and put aside.
20. Your in the home stretch! Remove the (2) 15mm rear differential rear bolts and (1) rear differential front bolt and wiggle out of the subframe. (Caution: this is heavy, I suggest having someone for backup or help. I was able to do it myself one time but would have been much nicer with someone.)
21. Now remove the (4) 18MM nuts/bolts/studs for the subframe and lower down. My stud nuts were rusted so I will be replacing these.

There ya go!! I will be updated this thread on install/assembly of all the new bushings/balljoints that will be replaced back here. This is what your garage will probably look like afterwards...








Also confirmed payment and pickup for these beauties. They need a bit of clean up but their light as hell and in my size and offset (17x9)

[Goodspeed]

tl;dr

Pics of your mom's M3

[D_Eclipse9916]

Hahaha yes I will. Right now its just sitting in the garage till most the snow clears. Temps are supposed to be in the high 40s thursday/friday so we are doing a massive car wash probably early friday morning. My mom apparently is more than happy with her m3 and decided to sell her station wagon now, even though we previously decided to hold onto it for 6 months, so its gotta be prepped for sale. Same with the gsx, bumper gets painted this week. Itll be real nice to be down to 2 cars myself and my mom down to 1.

[Jake]

Nice writeup and pix. Do want more E46 lovin. Post the Merc for sale on MM, never know who might bite or know someone. Same for the Dizzum.

[Kaan]

Pics of what needs to be welded!

[D_Eclipse9916]

^^ I will get some tonight.

Now to ordering parts today. This is a list of OEM equipment and best prices including shipping ive found. If you want to do an OEM overhaul...this is what you need:

2x 33321092247 (Inner upper Control arm Bushing) $12.70 each (getbmwparts.com)
2x 33326770824 (Inner Lower Control Arm Bushing) $12.70 each (getbmwparts.com)
2x 33326775551 (Outer upper Control arm Ball joint) $38.09 each (rmeuropean.com) (OEM OR LEMFORDER ONLY!)
2x 33326775551 (Outer Lower Control arm Ball Joint) $38.09 each (rmeuropean.com) (OEM OR LEMFORDER ONLY!)
2x 33171134911 (Rear Differential Rear Bushings) $12.70 each (getbmwparts.com)
1x 33171134910 (Rear Differential Front Bushing) $15.53
1x 33319066671 (Pair of rear Subframe Front Bushings) $69.99 (turnermotorsports)
1x 33319059301 (Pair of Rear Subframe Rear Bushings) $49.99 add in option package with front (turnermotorsports)
2x 18301703634 (Exhaust Hangers) rockautoparts.com
2x 18201401797 (Exhaust Hangers) rockautoparts.com

1x Vorshlag OEM Rear Trailing Arm Bushings and Limiters $95 (Vorshlag)
1x Bimmerworld RTAB Pocket Reinforcers $59.99 (bimmerworld.com)
1x AKG Motorsports Sway Bar Reinforcers $35 (AKGmotorsports.com)


For myself, I will be replacing OEM subframe and differential bushings with AKGs 75D bushings for $190 and $120 respectively. I still go back and forth every minute wether im doing OEM RTABs with limiters or AKGs New 80A RTAB as its much easier to put in and is soft enough to allow proper articulation of the RTAB. Ive always had bad experiences with poly tho....

Optional:
2x Rear Subframe Front Studs 33332227291 $7.36 each getbmwparts.com

[WRXtranceformed]

Is that metal tape on those wheels? Just for cosmetic purposes?

[.RJ]

The metal tape keeps the wheel weight from falling off when the wheel gets hot.

[WRXtranceformed]

Weird...are the weights on the outside of the wheel instead of the inside then?

[ScottyB]

those wheels are sexual. looking good!

[D_Eclipse9916]

Small Update:

Most of the parts came in, now to go pickup a hydraulic press from harbor frieght to press out the bushings and balljoints. I tried to burn out the bushings , but I definitely do not have a hot enough torch, so ill just wait for the press.


And I found this to be kinda funny picture while I attempted to burn out the bushings (read sign)....



Kaan gave up his saturday morning and came over and helped me a ton welding in the subframe reinforcers and fixing a hole in my exhaust. Thank you so much again, im hoping that money went to beer money



I also did some looking over parts and found a serious problem. Either my rear anti-sway bar is binding on the chassis or on the links, but here is a picture of my sway bar end link......its supposed to be straight... I hope its just from the abuse its been through and not binding, need to make sure with the new endlinks that it all moves smooothly.



Lastly, thanks to Goodspeed, and after harassing him for hours trying on different helmets and H+N restraints, I purchased my new helmet and HANS device combo...

[xvxax]

What rear end links are you getting? My rears are trashed. Did you use an engine hoist to hold up your motor while dropping the front sub?

It's time for me to start working on my car this weekend or next.

[D_Eclipse9916]

Just getting stock, eventually ill be going ASTs this year and actuall plan on getting enough spring rate to go back to stock sway bars and save myself some points to use elsewhere.

Yes I used an engine hoist for all this work. What do you have to do for your car?

[xvxax]

I was wondering if you'd bothered to use a home-made or bought engine brace of some kind. I have a bunch of little maintenance to do, like the front subframe welding, so I'll probably reinspect my oil pump nut at the same time. I'm kind of tired of spending money and the car not going any faster, but it keeps me busy.

[D_Eclipse9916]

PS- I have an extra pre-safety wired oil pump nut from bimmerworld. You can have it for like 5 bucks.

Another Small Update: To prepare for new stages in projects I always try to start with a clean garage. So I spent over 5 hours organizing, cleaning, throwing out and vacuuming to get it ready.


I went out and bought a Harbor Frieght Press, and let me tell you this was a godsend. I could not have done this work without it. Also go and borrow one of those big ball joint rental kits from advance auto (rents for free!). I started with the rear subframe.


The rear subframe has 4 subframe bushings and 1 rear differential bushing on it. Use the press to knock out the subframe bushings and differential bushings, and be shocked how "good" bad bushings can be. These did not like coming out in one piece.... You definitely get much better at it once youve done a few. I could probably knock out all the bushings and ball joints very quickly now that ive done it once



Dont forget, grease helps everything, but becomes a mess, keep towels handy.


With the AKG subframe and front diff bushing...the bushings simply knock right in with some decent taps with a 4lb sledge.


Next was the rear diff casings 2 bushings. Again, use grease, the proper sockets and press em out. Also the AKG bushings for these knocked in as well. I also showed a picture of the rear casing and the inside of the diff. For those wondering how their speed sensor works on a bmw, it simply detects that movement of that small plate with extensions in the diff to the right of the clutch packs. You also get to see my new 3.64 4-clutch 60% lockup rear differential in the last picture.





Next up was the Rear trailings arms. I am replacing all the ball joints as well as the bushings back there. With the Rear trailing arm bushings, first knock the weak metal sleeves inwards so you can pop a socket on there, and proceed to use the press. As for the ball joints, press, or the ball joint removal tool actually worked really well... Here is everything out. Next update will show how to install the new ball joints as well as cleaning up the subframe, control arm bushings and possible reinstall.



Also a sidenote: Even if you read the rules like 20 times over, you can overlook a single sentence and change things dramatically. I messed up and missed a +3 point mod that I just installed. This means I am now +2 points over my TTC classing. I could either throw the cat-back back on, the stock intake manifold....or change up my suspension. Sway bars are worth +2, after doing a lot of research, I had always known I wanted to go back to softer or no sway bars to help put down power in the rear and reduce outside tire lifting. However, I had needed the extra roll control that the anti-sway bars provided. Also, I will be getting a custom "The Racer's Market" tune in March while down there. Its going to cost me a pretty penny as they will be optimizing my setup, so I didnt want to have the exhaust or intake manifold not on that id actually be using.

So I decided to go with a much better suspension setup. After talks with Bimmerworld and Eric Wong, I upped my ante from buying AST, to now ill be ordering some Motons. Bimmerworld and James Clay will be helping me choose springs rates, compression etc. so im hoping this will tide me over for a long time. And the Motons are a very well known good quantity, while AST has been used at the track and do VERY well, ive heard issues with blowing them, and some of their designs (such as their sway bar tabs on the shock body), left me wondering wtf they were thinking. Itll be a pretty penny over the ASTs...heres to hoping its worth it.

[ScottyB]

motons? serious business my good man. you are keeping the front bar or no?

enjoying the build so far. i'm looking forward (kinda) to replacing some bushings myself this summer.

[Jeff]

Wow. Ton of work going on in here. Looks great DJ.

[D_Eclipse9916]

Small Update:

.....yes, they came in!



I cant wait to get them in but of course Vorshlag is on backorder for Camber plates, which I hope to god they are back in stock when I call them today, otherwise im just going to order some Ground Control ones from Bimmerworld. I have to have them in by February 18th.

Anyway, ive been cleaning up and doing small things while its been terribly cold. Managed to f*** up a ball joint as I put one in by nicking the ball joint boot. Shit, theres $40 worth of ball joint cause of a small nick, I called up Bimmerworld to order another one and they told me if I had the old ball joints, I could simply swap over the dust boot covers. Sweet, tried it last night and saved my brand new ball joint.

I also pulled off the front bumper and put back on the stock sway bars on my M3..and generally check everything out. Looks like the power steering line where it meets the pump is leaking so a quick copper washer should fix that right up. I also made a list of everything that needs to be done on the car for VIR February 18th-20th and it looks like I need to knock out a bunch of stuff tonight if im going to stay on schedule.

Djs February "Has to be done list" with wants below:
1. Finish the last Ball joint into Rear Trailing Arm
2. Install Rear Trailing arm bushing.
3. Cool Tape/Fabric for front/rear ball joints to protect them
4. Power Steering Copper Washers install
5. Flush out coolant from winterization
6. Oil Change
7. Transmission Fluid
8. Rear differential Fluid
9. Straighten Front Splitter
10. Exhaust downturn and heat shielding for it.
11. From welding, prep and paint subframe and inner wheel wells
12. Press in new bushings on lower control arm
13. Drill out and tap diff for new diff bolt
14. Install subframe/diff/upper and lower control arms/rear trailing arms/sway bars/e-brake cables
15. Vinyl numbers and class numbers along with contingency stickers.
16. Install Motons and Vorshlag Camber Plate
17. Alignment

Wants:
1. Front brake duct installation
2. Reinforce front splitter
3. Reinforce and create a bit more ducting on undertray
4. Wash/Wax.

[Jake]

Good to know you saved that ball joint. I hate messing shit up for little reasons like that. Unfortunately, I'm good at it.

Your February list looks to have some stuff that's easy to knock out all at once... fluids and stickers could be done pretty easily. See ya in a few weeks...