Project WRX

[ScottyB]

if/when i get a tune (mine has a really poor factory tune, way too lean in most places) it will be with Enginuity and a tactrix cable. i've talked to Scott Seigel (you may have heard of him down here at TopSpeed) and its not the greatest but it will get the job done, and can be downloaded for free. its more of a road-tune thing you'd use yourself if you had the know-how though, not really as good an option as a tune from one of the big dogs.

i had a ride in Lee's WRX when it had the VF34 on it (Lee correct me if i'm wrong) and it was a super smooth/progressive and i bet alot of that was due to the t00n....

Travis you may be able to add some good stuff...

[flintster55]

That's cool Scotty. Sounds like a really good option for you to get that lean issue straightened out.

From what I understand, you can do the tune that way with Enginuity if you have the knowledge. Or, you can get an OTS map and flash the ECU that way. You can use the cable to save the stock ECU (rom maybe?) and then flash another map to the ECU so converting back to stock would be relatively easy. From what I've heard and read, XPT OTS maps are actually better and put down bigger numbers that Cobb OTS maps in most cases. But, as Lee mentioned earlier, that's mainly because Cobb maps run way rich.

So basically it's ~$90 for the cable and ~$50 for an XPT stage 2 OTS map
Or
~$500-600 for an Accessport and access to all Cobb maps online

And I really like the fact that you can log with the tactrix cable and even make minor adjustments to the map if need be via a laptop

[chibich]

I should be getting my car back this weekend and will be heading up to Agile automotive in the next few weeks to get it tuned, so if you want to ride up there and maybe talk to Hill(the tuner) about tuning the accesport and what he thinks of the different systems you are welcome to ride up there with me.

[flintster55]

Alright, Scotty inspired me to do a small update too. I had my oil sampled by Blackstone the last oil change and here are the results. What do you guys think? Is it serious enough or worth looking into selling it and trying to find another one? Possibilities of a spun bearing (which is pretty much the most common failure of the WRX engine from what I've read) in the future are really worrying me now. :dunno:

Any input is welcome

[Mike]

you don't have anything to worry about.

[flintster55]

you don't have anything to worry about.

Thanks Mike I really hope not.

It's kind of sad but part of me realized it could be a sick little marketing ploy to kind of scare me the first test so I end up getting more and more tests done with them but who knows :dunno:

[Mike]

you don't have anything to worry about.

Thanks Mike I really hope not.

It's kind of sad but part of me realized it could be a sick little marketing ploy to kind of scare me the first test so I end up getting more and more tests done with them but who knows :dunno:

I don't follow... he said things were good. I would be happy with everything he said if I were you hrug:

[flintster55]

Well I should probably stop listening the clowns on NASIOC first of all. They're instantly like "OMG!1! spun bearing soon!!!!" They got me scared about the spun bearing issue. Some of the guys on there they say BLackstone leaves a lot of uncertainty just to encourage people to get more and more tests done. Just like in mine where they said I should get more tests done to see if the lead wear is serious. But I'm fairly happy with the results overall, I'm just slightly paranoid

[ScottyB]

i also think you're fine. other metals would show high if you had a real problem. drive on!

your silicon is also low meaning good air filtration :thumbup:

i've learned to take everything and anything on NASIOC with a grain of salt. the majority of people on there are a lynch mob, 16 and clueless or 40 and bitter. check out iwsti.com, i find they are a bit more intelligent overall. also if you don't mind a smaller dirty souf board, wrxatlanta.com has a solid forum with some good advice -- we have some really solid techs and some top notch builders like topspeed, batlground, etc.

edit: subaru does point out in their manual that a thicker oil is OK in hard conditions/hot weather. if you know you'll be in that maybe try something a little bit thicker if you want maybe a bit more protection and see how your blackstone report comes back. no 20W-50 or anything, maybe a 5/10W-40 or some 0-30 "German" castrol (closer to a 35 weight)

[Dave]

You know, I've sent many samples off to Blackstone and they have never given me any kind of ambiguous reading that seemed even remotely leaning toward driving sales. I would like to think that their report is as factual as possible and the note they send is their way of having a person interpret it for you. There are conspiracy theorists everywhere, sometimes its better to tune them out... On the 1st one that I sent off for the truck (after 5k on the oil), they said it looked perfect and that they would highly encourage me to stretch my oil changes out further (I haven't, but they wouldn't have said that if they were trying to drive up sales).

I totally understand your paranoia, but before you jump the gun and start thinking about dumping your WRX b/c of one marginally scary report, do another 4k on it, send another sample (make sure you draw it halfway through the drain), and then see what comes back before you rush to conclusions. Hell, you can do another 2k or 3k and send it, if that will make you feel better.

Yeah, I'm sipping the Blackstone Kool-aid, but they are one of very few automotive companies that I really trust nowadays...

[Maengelito]

my STi from the 50k report:
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://mmsports.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1513">http://mmsports.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1513</a><!-- m -->

I was showing similar lead content. I doubt its a big deal, dont worry about it.

the latest oil analysis I got not too long ago:

[ScottyB]

O NOES! your using the death-sentence mobil 1 5W-30!! :lol:

sorry, NASIOC inside joke kinda thing

[Maengelito]

actually, i use whatever oil is cheapest. the first time happened to be mobil1, this past change was valvoline. i guess they never changed the label

[flintster55]

Thanks guys... I definitely needed this reassurance.

Scotty- I think I've learned my lesson about NASIOC, and I'll definitely look into the 0-30 or 5/10-40 for some added protection. I also used an oil stablizer called MOA I think made by BG this time that our BG sales rep swears by. So I'm interested to see if that has helped anything as well.

Dave- I'm glad to hear you've had good experiences with them. I plan on doing more samples to see how things turn out. And yes I took the sample halfway through draining and with the engine at the proper temp per their directions.

Maeng- Thanks for posting that up. It's even more reassurance that I don't mind having. Hopefully my second sample will come back with the same great results your's did

[Dave]

Dave- I'm glad to hear you've had good experiences with them. I plan on doing more samples to see how things turn out. And yes I took the sample halfway through draining and with the engine at the proper temp per their directions.

I figured you did, just had to put that out there b/c pulling it from the early part of the sample could very easily explain any higher elemental values.
Keep on b00stin...

[mrbaggio]

Any reason you are using 10w/30 rather than the 5w/30 as recommended? I have to change my oil like yesterday, but I have always had 5w/30 in. Just wondering.

[flintster55]

Any reason you are using 10w/30 rather than the 5w/30 as recommended? I have to change my oil like yesterday, but I have always had 5w/30 in. Just wondering.

Well based on the tables in the owner's manual, 10w/30 was a better fit because of the temperatures the car is operated in. I've also heard because it's slightly thicker it offers a bit more protection under high heat as opposed to thinner oils. Just a little peace of mind I guess at the sacrifice of maybe 1-2 mpg.

[ScottyB]

the difference between a 5 and 10W-30 is thickness when cold. you can get away with a thicker 10W oil in warmer climates during startup.

in your case neither oil would protect better under high heat since they are both 30 weight when at operating temperature. thickness does not necessarily protect better anyway but that is for another thread.

also, you will mostly likely not lose any MPG's until you get into some fairly thick oils like a 10W-40 or 20W-50. some cars are more sensitive than others though.

[D_Eclipse9916]

the difference between a 5 and 10W-30 is thickness when cold. you can get away with a thicker 10W oil in warmer climates during startup.

in your case neither oil would protect better under high heat since they are both 30 weight when at operating temperature. thickness does not necessarily protect better anyway but that is for another thread.

also, you will mostly likely not lose any MPG's until you get into some fairly thick oils like a 10W-40 or 20W-50. some cars are more sensitive than others though.

I really didnt notice any drop when I switched from 10-30 to 15w-40, but then again I switched from Mobil 1 to Royal Purple.

[Jeff]

I think you need to sell it...or start saving for a new engine. :wink: