So I bought an E30.

[Beej]

Holy crap, $150. I see there are two on egay - I'm gonna pick a set up. Fucking great find.

Scraping sucks because eventually something will bend enough to crack a weld, and then the whole thing becomes a pile like mine is.

I wonder what those squares with the hole in them are for...they look like they'd be halfway decent motor mount spacers (if needed...my motor can't go up too much higher without raising the wiring harness a bit).

[.RJ]

You can "persuade" the pipes to clear things like the subframe with a good torch and a prybar. It wont look pretty afterwards but no one will see it...

[CaptainHenreh]

Holy crap, $150. I see there are two on egay - I'm gonna pick a set up. Fucking great find.

Yeah, I thought you'd like that. My guess is he sells two at a time, and that when you buy one there'll be another up...for me!

Let me know how you like them though.

[Maengelito]

fwiw, i dont know much about e30's but on miatas from 99-00, a common upgrade is to get rid of the cast iron manifold (like you've got) for tubular headers (like you're looking to go to). you can find the 01+ miata oem tubular headers but for like half the price, you can buy a stainless steel one on ebay. i got mine on ebay for just over $120 shipped and also bought some of that DEI exhaust wrap to wrap the pipes, but it was a huge PITA to put in. now that you've got the engine out, you definitely need to buy those things because i'm sure it'll suck trying to do it after you put the engine back in.

a common issue with the ebay headers though is that the runner coming from cyl 3 is super close to the steering linkage. some people have dimpled the runner, some have put washers on the motor mount to shift it away. i'm probably gonna go that route because i already have mazda motorsports competition motor mounts on the way so i'll just throw some extra washers in there when i swap them out. if i could do it over again though, i probably would've found an 01+ oem header for the perfect fit.

[.RJ]

if i could do it over again though, i probably would've found an 01+ oem header for the perfect fit.

Told ya so

[Maengelito]

f yo couch

[Beej]

Yeah, I thought you'd like that. My guess is he sells two at a time, and that when you buy one there'll be another up...for me!

Let me know how you like them though.

Yeah, that rocks - thanks man! I bought one set, but there's another one still up there if you're so inclined.

How's the rest of the parts collecting coming? When are you looking at doing all this anyway? I'll probably get my exhaust work done in the next couple weeks (let's be real - give me a month).

[CaptainHenreh]

Yeah, I thought you'd like that. My guess is he sells two at a time, and that when you buy one there'll be another up...for me!

Let me know how you like them though.

Yeah, that rocks - thanks man! I bought one set, but there's another one still up there if you're so inclined.

How's the rest of the parts collecting coming? When are you looking at doing all this anyway? I'll probably get my exhaust work done in the next couple weeks (let's be real - give me a month).

Well, I still need an ICV, and I still need to buy a clutch, flywheel bolts, O2 sensor (hooray mustang) and I'm kicking around doing a front seal while I'm doing the oil pan seal, valve cover gasket, rear main seal, rear main seal housing gasket, etc. All that, of course, can be done in a motivated day, but I doubt there'll be any engine-going-into-car action until the lift is wired up, and it can't be wired until the rest of the garage is wired! :-p So I have alot of "support" work to do before I can actually get jiggy on my swap.

I'm also trying to decide if i want to re-pin my M50 connector or build an adapter harness. Re-pinning would be the cleanest, but if I ever replace my engine I'll have to re-pin another connector. If I take the extra time to build an adapter, it'll be plug and play.

But once the stars align, I'm thinking it'll roll pretty fast.

[BLINGMW]

On the TCS throttle body issue. You can remove it, it's just bolted to the normal TB. Then you can order up the rubber boot for a non-TC 325 that goes between that and the air sensor and it'll install perfectly. The computer will register that the TC is off, and doesn't hurt anything.

[CaptainHenreh]

On the TCS throttle body issue. You can remove it, it's just bolted to the normal TB. Then you can order up the rubber boot for a non-TC 325 that goes between that and the air sensor and it'll install perfectly. The computer will register that the TC is off, and doesn't hurt anything.

Sweet.

[Beej]

And uh, back to the headers. I actually saw them installed on a swapped car over the weekend. He said he had zero fitment problems - they bolted right up. They hung maybe a little low, but not more than like 1/4-1/2" lower than my current setup.

[CaptainHenreh]

And uh, back to the headers. I actually saw them installed on a swapped car over the weekend. He said he had zero fitment problems - they bolted right up. They hung maybe a little low, but not more than like 1/4-1/2" lower than my current setup.

Cool.

[Chris]

haha thats awesome

[Feersty]

Funny as expletive.

[CaptainHenreh]

Well shit.

No more 150 dollar ebay headers. FUCK! He who hesitates is lost, I guess.

[Andy]

Well shit.

No more 150 dollar ebay headers. FUCK! He who hesitates is lost, I guess.

I'm sure the last batch of Chinese sweatshop laborers died and they're breaking in a new batch as we speak so we should be knee deep in crappy parts in no time.

[CaptainHenreh]

I hope so. I can buy identical headers for...about double.

[Andy]

You're not missing out on much. I have a knockoff header and it's definitely a piece of crap. I honestly don't expect mine to last more than a year or so.

[BLINGMW]

I'm sure the last batch of Chinese sweatshop laborers died and they breaking in a new batch as we speak

Sadly, that is my kinda humor. I LOL'd :lol:

[Feersty]

How much do Remus headers run?