04-28-2004, 12:23 AM
I'd have to mirror RJ's response on the maintenance thing. They're a capable track car and age gracefully, even when driven hard.
Expect a few electrical gremlins, mostly sensors and lights (you WILL have trouble with the tail lights, I guarantee) that set off worthless codes in the check control computer and you can often ignore. Ignition system and emissions control stuff are designed well and last longer than in most cars, heck, you don't even have plug wires to dick around with.
You'll probably throw a couple hundred $$ into the cooling system every few years. Even with the metal impeller water pump (~$75), the alum thermo housing (~$30), and new hoses (~$120), the radiators are plastic junk. Keep an eye on it, replace every few years (~$150), or spend $600 on a Fluidyne or some such kick-ass thing, might be worth it.
The engines were really designed to be black boxes, change the fluids now and then and don't over-rev it, and it'll last a long long time. You'll probably have to replace the VANOS unit at some point (~$300), valve cover gasket (~$20), and replace the chain tensioner as well (less than $100 to get it all back together), but everything else is designed for 200k+ miles. Even the exhaust system is built to last a long time.
Even accessories have good service life, alternator/starter/PS pump rarely fail. AC system is a little weak, you'll probably get some climate control gremlins and/or develop a slow leak that'll cost you a couple bucks of 134a before each summer, assuming you don't tear it all out. :wink:
The main fan clutch on the front of the engine will stop engaging or lock up, and you'll remove the fan, never to be seen again.
Suspension and brakes are very solid. The rear control arms already have bearings instead of bushings and will last forever. You'll probably get a bad balljoint in a front control arm eventually and replace both the arms for $300. Stock bushings in rear trailing arm and front control arm last pretty well and fail gracefully, drive them 'till they're dead and get some urethane. Spring kits and shock choices are aplenty, replace rear shock mounts with something better while you're at it. Stock brakes with OE (inexpensive) rotors will be trouble free with some good pads and fluid. Caliper rebuild kits (~$15ea) and a new master cyl (this is like $350 for the M3, I don't know why) may be needed at some point, probably not.
The rest of the drivetrain is solid too. Other than the mounts, you might need to replace the flex disc at some point (~$80), but the diff and tranny are built to handle the power. Go with synthetic fluids and avoid drag racing or powershifting and they'll last forever.
Basically, I don't think I know any E36 owners that have spent nearly as much on replacement and maintenance as they have modifications. That'll be the only money pit. 8) The car's ready to play with.
Expect a few electrical gremlins, mostly sensors and lights (you WILL have trouble with the tail lights, I guarantee) that set off worthless codes in the check control computer and you can often ignore. Ignition system and emissions control stuff are designed well and last longer than in most cars, heck, you don't even have plug wires to dick around with.
You'll probably throw a couple hundred $$ into the cooling system every few years. Even with the metal impeller water pump (~$75), the alum thermo housing (~$30), and new hoses (~$120), the radiators are plastic junk. Keep an eye on it, replace every few years (~$150), or spend $600 on a Fluidyne or some such kick-ass thing, might be worth it.
The engines were really designed to be black boxes, change the fluids now and then and don't over-rev it, and it'll last a long long time. You'll probably have to replace the VANOS unit at some point (~$300), valve cover gasket (~$20), and replace the chain tensioner as well (less than $100 to get it all back together), but everything else is designed for 200k+ miles. Even the exhaust system is built to last a long time.
Even accessories have good service life, alternator/starter/PS pump rarely fail. AC system is a little weak, you'll probably get some climate control gremlins and/or develop a slow leak that'll cost you a couple bucks of 134a before each summer, assuming you don't tear it all out. :wink:
The main fan clutch on the front of the engine will stop engaging or lock up, and you'll remove the fan, never to be seen again.
Suspension and brakes are very solid. The rear control arms already have bearings instead of bushings and will last forever. You'll probably get a bad balljoint in a front control arm eventually and replace both the arms for $300. Stock bushings in rear trailing arm and front control arm last pretty well and fail gracefully, drive them 'till they're dead and get some urethane. Spring kits and shock choices are aplenty, replace rear shock mounts with something better while you're at it. Stock brakes with OE (inexpensive) rotors will be trouble free with some good pads and fluid. Caliper rebuild kits (~$15ea) and a new master cyl (this is like $350 for the M3, I don't know why) may be needed at some point, probably not.
The rest of the drivetrain is solid too. Other than the mounts, you might need to replace the flex disc at some point (~$80), but the diff and tranny are built to handle the power. Go with synthetic fluids and avoid drag racing or powershifting and they'll last forever.
Basically, I don't think I know any E36 owners that have spent nearly as much on replacement and maintenance as they have modifications. That'll be the only money pit. 8) The car's ready to play with.