04-26-2004, 02:06 PM
some good info on the corner-carvers post there, so I won't bother re-visiting those questions. But, my 2 cents:
Yes, I'd stick with the '95 if possible, assuming you might want to play with the car a bit. They just get heavier as more crap gets added on in later years, and there's lots more options for extra power in the OBD1 system. Sure, you CAN get a later one, and convert back to OBD1-- it's more than I'd tackle, but is interesting if you feel like learning a lot about the car and have a lot of time. I wouldn't say no to a good deal on a later model, but just realize that if you decide you want another 30 or so HP, you're going to be spending a LOT of $$. If stock power is fine though, the later ones are just as good. And more plentiful in good condition.
Yes, the OBD2's are all 3.2, that's when that change was made. In stock form, this does make more power through the entire band, but a chip and intake on the OBD1 system would make up for it, and that's just the beginning... Ooh OOH, and if you do get a '95, and the engine dies for whatever reason, you can pop the 3.2 in for an OBD1 3.2. It's arguably easier than trying to convert OBD2 to 1.
You're right (from what I've heard many times) about the 4dr being slightly stiffer, and if the stock rear springs were a little stiffer with that, I don't know. And yes, the weights are almost the same 4dr/2dr. They did use many different springs depending on options, so I would guess they are slightly different. Nothing to worry about though, and some aftermarket springs clear all that up. :wink:
Gerald's right, it's probably not the best RACE CAR because of classing issues, but as a track car, it's great. As an autocross car... you could do better. It's pretty heavy, geared for higher speeds, and doesn't have enough low end power to make up for it like a mustang or 'vette does.
And the "money shift" issue. All 3 series have this problem. It just gets worse with the heavier M transmission. Solid mounts are the only cure but that's pretty harsh. Stiffer engine and trans mounts help. Ireland engineering sells both, UUC's stiffest trans mounts and a new set of engine mounts are the way I'd go. Bimmerworld also has a new driveline stabilizer that's supposed to solve the problem, I'd check that out too. Some stiff mounts and a gentle hand, and you'll never have a problem. You should try to minimize mid-corner shifts anyway, now you have another motivator. :wink: I never had a problem with it, and had the original mounts.
All in all, if I were going to spend something like 15k on a track car, I would get another E36 325. Then I'd have half the $$ left over for suspension, brakes, power mods, cage, diff, broken stuff, all kinds of goodies. And it'd rollanM any day. Really, with some basic suspension mods and a cam, it'll keep up with an M no problem, even in something close to a straight line. For a track AND autocross car, I know you'd considered a 'vette before, and if you like them, I'd be willing to admit it might be the better choice. :?
Yes, I'd stick with the '95 if possible, assuming you might want to play with the car a bit. They just get heavier as more crap gets added on in later years, and there's lots more options for extra power in the OBD1 system. Sure, you CAN get a later one, and convert back to OBD1-- it's more than I'd tackle, but is interesting if you feel like learning a lot about the car and have a lot of time. I wouldn't say no to a good deal on a later model, but just realize that if you decide you want another 30 or so HP, you're going to be spending a LOT of $$. If stock power is fine though, the later ones are just as good. And more plentiful in good condition.
Yes, the OBD2's are all 3.2, that's when that change was made. In stock form, this does make more power through the entire band, but a chip and intake on the OBD1 system would make up for it, and that's just the beginning... Ooh OOH, and if you do get a '95, and the engine dies for whatever reason, you can pop the 3.2 in for an OBD1 3.2. It's arguably easier than trying to convert OBD2 to 1.
You're right (from what I've heard many times) about the 4dr being slightly stiffer, and if the stock rear springs were a little stiffer with that, I don't know. And yes, the weights are almost the same 4dr/2dr. They did use many different springs depending on options, so I would guess they are slightly different. Nothing to worry about though, and some aftermarket springs clear all that up. :wink:
Gerald's right, it's probably not the best RACE CAR because of classing issues, but as a track car, it's great. As an autocross car... you could do better. It's pretty heavy, geared for higher speeds, and doesn't have enough low end power to make up for it like a mustang or 'vette does.
And the "money shift" issue. All 3 series have this problem. It just gets worse with the heavier M transmission. Solid mounts are the only cure but that's pretty harsh. Stiffer engine and trans mounts help. Ireland engineering sells both, UUC's stiffest trans mounts and a new set of engine mounts are the way I'd go. Bimmerworld also has a new driveline stabilizer that's supposed to solve the problem, I'd check that out too. Some stiff mounts and a gentle hand, and you'll never have a problem. You should try to minimize mid-corner shifts anyway, now you have another motivator. :wink: I never had a problem with it, and had the original mounts.
All in all, if I were going to spend something like 15k on a track car, I would get another E36 325. Then I'd have half the $$ left over for suspension, brakes, power mods, cage, diff, broken stuff, all kinds of goodies. And it'd rollanM any day. Really, with some basic suspension mods and a cam, it'll keep up with an M no problem, even in something close to a straight line. For a track AND autocross car, I know you'd considered a 'vette before, and if you like them, I'd be willing to admit it might be the better choice. :?