05-16-2005, 10:58 PM
progress
The VE oil pan is drilled and tapped for the oil temp, I made a bracket for the coil to mount to, and the IM is almost back together with the Thermoblock spacers installed.
A note about taping for a 1/8 - 27 NPT thread. The tap is tapered, so you have to tap it all the way through. Its very important to drill the right size hole or it wont work. It took me nearly 10 trys to get it right. After that I used the Steve Foltz JB weld method. Ill post pics of that and my bracket later.
This morning I got up and took the car in to have the emmisions tested again (it failed last week, and I need it done before the new motor goes in). I knocked the timing back pretty far and put some of that stuff thats supposed to help you pass emmisions in the tank. It droped my CO and H.C. down to next to nothing (I was fine on those anyways), but I still just barely failed NOx. I told the emmisions guy I would be right back. I drove home, put the timing all the way back, and went to try again. Third times the charm. Passed with room to spare. The engine felt like it had 50 hp top, it was pretty ridiculous. I figure that must be what its like to drive a honda .
Since I passed emmisions, the swap was on, but not until I drove to Rockville to pick up a new tranny (Stupid fifth gear popout
quint I didnt get home until nearly 1:00, so I didnt get started until about 1:30. Wasted half the day already.
Got started relieving the fuel pressure, draining all the fluids, and getting the car into the air. I disconnected all the wiring harnesses that where easily accesible, labeling most of them. I decided to do the axles next. One of the bolts on the strut to hub had completely frozen onto it. I removed the nut without a problem, but even with the airgun the bolt wouldnt spin. That would be the first of many times the Propan torch came in handy. After I got that out of the way, the passenger side axle came out easily. I still havn't gotten the drivers side all the way out, but im not too worried about it. I have a new axle and tranny so it doesnt matter.
I havnt disconnected any of the power steering lines yet, or touched the AC. I also need to disconnect the two wire coolant temp sensor, and the oil pressure sensor. There are a few vacuum lines (running to the evap cannister) that need to come out, but thats everything that needs to be undone before the engine can come out that I can think of right now. Im not sure if the radiator needs to come out, but right now its still in there.
Thats it for now. I'll post up my progress tommorow (hopefully alot), and some pictures too. Also, much thanks to Jray for coming out to help.
-Mike
The VE oil pan is drilled and tapped for the oil temp, I made a bracket for the coil to mount to, and the IM is almost back together with the Thermoblock spacers installed.
A note about taping for a 1/8 - 27 NPT thread. The tap is tapered, so you have to tap it all the way through. Its very important to drill the right size hole or it wont work. It took me nearly 10 trys to get it right. After that I used the Steve Foltz JB weld method. Ill post pics of that and my bracket later.
This morning I got up and took the car in to have the emmisions tested again (it failed last week, and I need it done before the new motor goes in). I knocked the timing back pretty far and put some of that stuff thats supposed to help you pass emmisions in the tank. It droped my CO and H.C. down to next to nothing (I was fine on those anyways), but I still just barely failed NOx. I told the emmisions guy I would be right back. I drove home, put the timing all the way back, and went to try again. Third times the charm. Passed with room to spare. The engine felt like it had 50 hp top, it was pretty ridiculous. I figure that must be what its like to drive a honda .
Since I passed emmisions, the swap was on, but not until I drove to Rockville to pick up a new tranny (Stupid fifth gear popout
quint I didnt get home until nearly 1:00, so I didnt get started until about 1:30. Wasted half the day already.Got started relieving the fuel pressure, draining all the fluids, and getting the car into the air. I disconnected all the wiring harnesses that where easily accesible, labeling most of them. I decided to do the axles next. One of the bolts on the strut to hub had completely frozen onto it. I removed the nut without a problem, but even with the airgun the bolt wouldnt spin. That would be the first of many times the Propan torch came in handy. After I got that out of the way, the passenger side axle came out easily. I still havn't gotten the drivers side all the way out, but im not too worried about it. I have a new axle and tranny so it doesnt matter.
I havnt disconnected any of the power steering lines yet, or touched the AC. I also need to disconnect the two wire coolant temp sensor, and the oil pressure sensor. There are a few vacuum lines (running to the evap cannister) that need to come out, but thats everything that needs to be undone before the engine can come out that I can think of right now. Im not sure if the radiator needs to come out, but right now its still in there.
Thats it for now. I'll post up my progress tommorow (hopefully alot), and some pictures too. Also, much thanks to Jray for coming out to help.
-Mike
CCVT VP 05-06
1991 Sentra SE-R w/ SR20VE
1994 Yamaha Seca II
1991 Sentra SE-R w/ SR20VE
1994 Yamaha Seca II