07-08-2020, 03:39 PM
Mileage: 47,100
After replacing the fuel cap, I still had a CEL, now for multiple EVAP Leak codes, and the Check Fuel Cap message. Some further research indicated that if a new fuel cap didn't solve the problem, replace the purge valve. It cost $40 for a genuine Mopar valve and new vacuum line.
I got the purge valve installed in the time it took some poor guy to stand in the rain and wait for an Uber outside my apartment. Seriously the easiest repair I’ve done on any vehicle to date. Pop hood, remove air intake tube (two screws), remove engine beauty cover (pull), disconnect two hoses and electrical connector from purge valve, slide valve off of metal stud. The purge valve is the thing here with the red plastic connector going to it.
![[Image: ApWz2HG.jpg]](https://i.imgur.com/ApWz2HG.jpg)
Closed the hood and took the truck to Farrish Ram for an oil change and complaint of slight rattling under-hood on cold starts. Apparently exhaust manifold bolts snapping is a common Hemi concern and Mopar has extended coverage for the repair so it’s free.
They found four broken bolts/studs on the driver’s side manifold, and replaced all of them on that side alongside a new manifold gasket. Yay.
Got my annual safety inspection done and it looks like all is well otherwise, though I’m about due for new brakes all around. Should have about 48k miles on the original pads/rotors by the time I replace them which is not bad at all. I think my 2011 F-150 did about similar mileage before needing new stuff.
After replacing the fuel cap, I still had a CEL, now for multiple EVAP Leak codes, and the Check Fuel Cap message. Some further research indicated that if a new fuel cap didn't solve the problem, replace the purge valve. It cost $40 for a genuine Mopar valve and new vacuum line.
I got the purge valve installed in the time it took some poor guy to stand in the rain and wait for an Uber outside my apartment. Seriously the easiest repair I’ve done on any vehicle to date. Pop hood, remove air intake tube (two screws), remove engine beauty cover (pull), disconnect two hoses and electrical connector from purge valve, slide valve off of metal stud. The purge valve is the thing here with the red plastic connector going to it.
![[Image: ApWz2HG.jpg]](https://i.imgur.com/ApWz2HG.jpg)
Closed the hood and took the truck to Farrish Ram for an oil change and complaint of slight rattling under-hood on cold starts. Apparently exhaust manifold bolts snapping is a common Hemi concern and Mopar has extended coverage for the repair so it’s free.
They found four broken bolts/studs on the driver’s side manifold, and replaced all of them on that side alongside a new manifold gasket. Yay.
Got my annual safety inspection done and it looks like all is well otherwise, though I’m about due for new brakes all around. Should have about 48k miles on the original pads/rotors by the time I replace them which is not bad at all. I think my 2011 F-150 did about similar mileage before needing new stuff.
Now:
'16 Ram 1500 | '97 BMW M3 | Some Press Loan
Then:
87 BMW 325e | 91 BMW 535i | 96 BMW 328i | 95 BMW 325i | 95 Mazda Miata | 13 Focus ST | 09 BMW 128i | 00 Pontiac Firebird | 05 Yukon Denali | 96 BMW 328iC | 11 Ford F-150 | 06 BMW M3 | 10 Range Rover SC | '03 Ford Ranger | '18 Ford F-150 | '01 BMW X5 | '98 Volvo S70 T5M
'16 Ram 1500 | '97 BMW M3 | Some Press Loan
Then:
87 BMW 325e | 91 BMW 535i | 96 BMW 328i | 95 BMW 325i | 95 Mazda Miata | 13 Focus ST | 09 BMW 128i | 00 Pontiac Firebird | 05 Yukon Denali | 96 BMW 328iC | 11 Ford F-150 | 06 BMW M3 | 10 Range Rover SC | '03 Ford Ranger | '18 Ford F-150 | '01 BMW X5 | '98 Volvo S70 T5M

