(05-07-2018, 05:24 PM)ScottyB Wrote: whoa, so what's the deal, did you manage to get the bands in the tranny snugged up yourself? that was mighty quick for the final black box. awesome news either way. go leave some freedom stripes and report back.
Yeah everything was tight already when I dropped the valvebody. It's not normal for the adjuster to be that far in but it must've gotten tight just as I thought it had bottomed out. All I had to do was back it off until I had around 1/4"-1/2" of slack in the band strut (usually about 2-3 turns). I still couldn't tear this thing completely apart but I have a good idea how 2nd (front band) and reverse work (rear band) now. They're just operated by a servo being pressurized and pushing down a strut connected to their respective band. So if just 2nd or reverse is missing it's usually just a matter of a band being loose, worn out or broken. Haven't gotten too crazy yet because it's leaking fluid out of the front of the pan. Not surprising because I didn't torque any of the pan bolts to spec. I don't trust my 1/2" torque wrench to accurately do 8 ft/lbs since I almost snapped a valvebody bolt trying it. Waiting on a 1/4" in/lb wrench to get in tomorrow and it'll be time to terrorize the neighborhood again and call the muffler shop.
Have a chin spoiler to throw on and need to roll the rear fenders. I want to test fit the 18s from the Ralliart to get an idea of what kinda backspacing I'm going to need to get on my squared setup. That car is actually up in Winchester right now getting looked at by a decent Rallyx shop there. I'm expecting to hear the turbo needs to be replaced at this point but we'll see. I suppose I should look into getting a rear swaybar before the next Autox event as well. The driver side rear tire took a few good hits at the one event I ran last winter. With the fenders rolled and new setup not having the sidewall bulge it should be fine but overkill is better than blowing out the sidewall of an expensive tire.