09-26-2017, 09:09 AM
Promised myself I'd take a few days off from wrenching on the car but I'm finding it hard to stick to that with it not running again. The starter is working fine but just isn't getting a steady flow of power. That really narrows it down to just the battery cables/connections. I'm still pretty new to dealing with electrical problems but I got to brainstorming and realized right now the battery is properly grounded to the frame. This is great but the power is going to the starter/engine and it needs a solid path to the battery through that ground. There's nothing really connecting the block and frame except for the 4 K-member bolts. I need to run a cable from the starter bolt to the frame. After a bit of reading I should run a ground from the body to the frame for all the things like my instrument panel that are grounded to the body and possibly another ground from the engine to the body to be safe.
Ideally I'd just run the battery ground up to the block but I need 15-20ft of 1 gauge battery cable which I'm finding hard to get without spending a good but. I can buy a $200 kit that comes with a positive cable I won't need or just spend $140 on a 50ft reel and terminals. Going to try and take the easy way out first and hope I can just run a short cable to the frame. If I have anymore ground issues after that I'm probably just going to buy the reel.
Started planning going to manual brakes as well. Removing the booster is going to shift the location of the master cylinder quite a bit. I'm thinking of just picking up a set of 3/8 IF to -3 AN adapters and just running a short length of braided line to bridge the gap. The alternative is bending a loop or 2 into the hardlines and hoping I can get them to line up right or simply remaking them all together. None of these options really seem appealing but I guess it has to be done if I want my brakes to work properly. Can't wait to get brake fluid everywhere again ...
Ideally I'd just run the battery ground up to the block but I need 15-20ft of 1 gauge battery cable which I'm finding hard to get without spending a good but. I can buy a $200 kit that comes with a positive cable I won't need or just spend $140 on a 50ft reel and terminals. Going to try and take the easy way out first and hope I can just run a short cable to the frame. If I have anymore ground issues after that I'm probably just going to buy the reel.
Started planning going to manual brakes as well. Removing the booster is going to shift the location of the master cylinder quite a bit. I'm thinking of just picking up a set of 3/8 IF to -3 AN adapters and just running a short length of braided line to bridge the gap. The alternative is bending a loop or 2 into the hardlines and hoping I can get them to line up right or simply remaking them all together. None of these options really seem appealing but I guess it has to be done if I want my brakes to work properly. Can't wait to get brake fluid everywhere again ...