12-12-2004, 05:17 PM
I can't come up with a good way to explain it, but I'd have to recommend you do the toe changes before buying anything. It's certianly the easiest and cheapest thing to do, free if done yourself. At the least, go with what RJ said, 16th out on the front, 0 rear. And with stock suspension, I'd max out negative camber (if it can be adjusted) too. See if you like it. Ignore the factory recommendations. But it's all at the cost of tire wear, so do whatever you can afford. :twisted:
Very simplified, a bar or stiffer springs would increase the roll stiffness of the car, and doing an increase on just the rear makes the front work harder. The stiffer the car, the faster it can react to changes, the more it makes your tires work, but the less forgiving it becomes. So while alignment changes may fiddle with the balance of the car like spings or a bar would, no alignment is going to make the car much more nimble or make much of a drastic change. At best, toe changes might just make initial turn in a bit more crisp and take out a bit of understeer, and extra camber is going to keep more tire on the ground when the car rolls.
Very simplified, a bar or stiffer springs would increase the roll stiffness of the car, and doing an increase on just the rear makes the front work harder. The stiffer the car, the faster it can react to changes, the more it makes your tires work, but the less forgiving it becomes. So while alignment changes may fiddle with the balance of the car like spings or a bar would, no alignment is going to make the car much more nimble or make much of a drastic change. At best, toe changes might just make initial turn in a bit more crisp and take out a bit of understeer, and extra camber is going to keep more tire on the ground when the car rolls.