11-17-2015, 05:41 PM
Option 1:
TTE as close to 2780lbs to low 2800lbs as possible. Basically would be the least amount of weight I could get without going lexan or carbon fiber shit.
+22 tires (225/45/17 or 225/40/17)
+1 (225 vs 215 base tire)
+1 C4 (intake)
+5 C22 (header/cat/exhaust)
+3 E3 (Koni)
+2 E5 (ground controls)
+2 E7 (32MM rear sway bar)
+2 F1 (OEM big brake kit - speed3 front calipers and mazda5 rear calipers)
+39 points and it is that simple. See how it goes for a bit. All these things I have on my car now except the tires.
Option 2:
TTE as close to 2780lbs to low 2800lbs as possible. Basically would be the least amount of weight I could get without going lexan or carbon fiber shit.
+22 tires (225/45/15 or 225/50/15)
+1 (225 vs 215 base tire)
+1 C4 (intake) - not sure if I want to take points for this or not. Factory box may lose 1 or 2 hp? (I'm talking to my tuner about this)
+5 C22 (header/cat/exhaust)
+3 E3 (Koni)
+2 E5 (ground controls)
-2 E7 (back to stock rear bar)
-2 F1 (back to stock brakes)
Leaves me at +35 points
Move back down to stock brakes (save on weight and fit 15" tires). Fit 15x9 wheels (save weight and help with my low power/gearing issue). Talked to Huffman (TTE Integra dude) and he said just get down as low weight as possible and ask for a dyno reclass so I can get more power and use the extra 4 points and whatever other points they allow with the dyno reclass to:
1. add a cam (can I build engine with stronger parts keeping all sizes the same except changing the cam so the engine can rev to 8500 or so without popping and not take any extra points for adding stronger engine internals?) - this is my only option to add a cam that will make power to be worth it; still stupidly expensive
2. supercharge the car using a the rotrex kit from a 2.0 miata with a little custom fab work from a shop (talking to tuner about this as he is very familiar with this area).
3. give me your input on best optimization on extra points + a dyno reclass possible points.
TTE as close to 2780lbs to low 2800lbs as possible. Basically would be the least amount of weight I could get without going lexan or carbon fiber shit.
+22 tires (225/45/17 or 225/40/17)
+1 (225 vs 215 base tire)
+1 C4 (intake)
+5 C22 (header/cat/exhaust)
+3 E3 (Koni)
+2 E5 (ground controls)
+2 E7 (32MM rear sway bar)
+2 F1 (OEM big brake kit - speed3 front calipers and mazda5 rear calipers)
+39 points and it is that simple. See how it goes for a bit. All these things I have on my car now except the tires.
Option 2:
TTE as close to 2780lbs to low 2800lbs as possible. Basically would be the least amount of weight I could get without going lexan or carbon fiber shit.
+22 tires (225/45/15 or 225/50/15)
+1 (225 vs 215 base tire)
+1 C4 (intake) - not sure if I want to take points for this or not. Factory box may lose 1 or 2 hp? (I'm talking to my tuner about this)
+5 C22 (header/cat/exhaust)
+3 E3 (Koni)
+2 E5 (ground controls)
-2 E7 (back to stock rear bar)
-2 F1 (back to stock brakes)
Leaves me at +35 points
Move back down to stock brakes (save on weight and fit 15" tires). Fit 15x9 wheels (save weight and help with my low power/gearing issue). Talked to Huffman (TTE Integra dude) and he said just get down as low weight as possible and ask for a dyno reclass so I can get more power and use the extra 4 points and whatever other points they allow with the dyno reclass to:
1. add a cam (can I build engine with stronger parts keeping all sizes the same except changing the cam so the engine can rev to 8500 or so without popping and not take any extra points for adding stronger engine internals?) - this is my only option to add a cam that will make power to be worth it; still stupidly expensive
2. supercharge the car using a the rotrex kit from a 2.0 miata with a little custom fab work from a shop (talking to tuner about this as he is very familiar with this area).
3. give me your input on best optimization on extra points + a dyno reclass possible points.