The Long Awaited: The Myth, The Legend, The Douchebaggery

[SlimKlim]

Head is out thanks to Jake's assistance. You definitely can't pull the head with long tube headers still attached. Maybe if you just took off the front ones, or maybe if you don't have A/C but, otherwise it ain't gonna happen. I hope I didn't do any damage to the head surface by manhandling it around to get to the header bolts that the machine shop won't fix.














To Do List:

-Remove cams
-Remove oil check valve
-Clean block surface and everything i can reach in the engine bay
-Take head to machine shop
-Clean up & Re-gasket all of the parts currently off the car
-Measure exhaust and order flanges
-Call shop that did the inspection and confirm which timing cover was leaking, the VANOS cover on the head or the lower cover on the front of the motor you can see in photo #5


Does anyone have any tips for the best way to clean up the block surface? I tried a razor blade, a variety of brushes, brakekleen and seafoam. It's tricky to control the debris as it comes off and keep it from going down into the oil/coolant channels. The Pelican DIY says to use a plastic cleaning wheel on a power drill, i was thinking about trying some cloth dremel polishing wheels using some seafoam as a solvent to buff it clean but be precise and keep the crap from falling into the motor.

Also I need suggestions for a good "break in oil," I need a super cheap 15W-40 because I'm going to follow the Pelican DIYs recommendation of changing the oil again ~50 miles after bolting it all back together again, as a way to flush out any solvents and debris that do fall down into the motor.