10-15-2004, 02:44 PM
Boost is as reliable as your ability to resist cranking it. The term "Forced Induction" basically tells you that you will be stressing the engine parts, however, the nice part about a turbo is that you're only stressing things when you're boosting. When you are idling, driving around town, etc, you're not pushing the system hard. When you get to the track take the boost to 50-75% of what your engine can handle daily and you will be able to make it through countless events without trouble.
Another nice thing about boost is that you're blowing the pistions down when they are on their intake stroke, as opposed to pulling them down on a N/A engine. Rods are strong when squeezed, but not pulled, so if you are really pulling high RPM's on a N/A engine, they are changing direction every fraction of a sec at over 80 miles an hour (according to an engine building book I have.) With FI, the rod doesn't have to pull as hard because the cylindar is having air "forced" into it.
If you get a nice turbo (good tolerances, oil and water cooled, 360 deg thrust berrings, etc) it will be good for many many miles. Also get a nice intercooler, it'll reduce the stress on your turbo and require less psi into the engine.
Semi's need power and reliablity, and they are turbo'd. Powerstroke Diesels are turbo'd, and it's the most reliable engine in a full size truck. Granted they are also Diesel, but still, 500,000+ miles on a turbo engine.
It sounds like you're building a strong block, and so I see no reason for you to have trouble. Turbo's have developed a bad rep because yahoo's slap one on their stock engine and crank up the boost for some short term gratification. Stock N/A parts can't handle boost. Stock turbo parts can't handle a "lot" of boost (<--experience here).
I'm a turbo guy. I say turbo it. Just use good judgement when picking psi.
Another nice thing about boost is that you're blowing the pistions down when they are on their intake stroke, as opposed to pulling them down on a N/A engine. Rods are strong when squeezed, but not pulled, so if you are really pulling high RPM's on a N/A engine, they are changing direction every fraction of a sec at over 80 miles an hour (according to an engine building book I have.) With FI, the rod doesn't have to pull as hard because the cylindar is having air "forced" into it.
If you get a nice turbo (good tolerances, oil and water cooled, 360 deg thrust berrings, etc) it will be good for many many miles. Also get a nice intercooler, it'll reduce the stress on your turbo and require less psi into the engine.
Semi's need power and reliablity, and they are turbo'd. Powerstroke Diesels are turbo'd, and it's the most reliable engine in a full size truck. Granted they are also Diesel, but still, 500,000+ miles on a turbo engine.
It sounds like you're building a strong block, and so I see no reason for you to have trouble. Turbo's have developed a bad rep because yahoo's slap one on their stock engine and crank up the boost for some short term gratification. Stock N/A parts can't handle boost. Stock turbo parts can't handle a "lot" of boost (<--experience here).
I'm a turbo guy. I say turbo it. Just use good judgement when picking psi.
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1985 Merkur XR4Ti Track Car
2013 Ford F-150 FX4 Ecoboost
E46 BMW 330Ci Sport 5spd
1973 Honda CL125S
1985 Honda CX500
2013 Arctic Cat 700 ATV
2017 Onewheel +
1985 Merkur XR4Ti Track Car
2013 Ford F-150 FX4 Ecoboost
E46 BMW 330Ci Sport 5spd
1973 Honda CL125S
1985 Honda CX500
2013 Arctic Cat 700 ATV
2017 Onewheel +