Dj's 1999 M3 Project

[D_Eclipse9916]

PS- I have an extra pre-safety wired oil pump nut from bimmerworld. You can have it for like 5 bucks.

Another Small Update: To prepare for new stages in projects I always try to start with a clean garage. So I spent over 5 hours organizing, cleaning, throwing out and vacuuming to get it ready.


I went out and bought a Harbor Frieght Press, and let me tell you this was a godsend. I could not have done this work without it. Also go and borrow one of those big ball joint rental kits from advance auto (rents for free!). I started with the rear subframe.


The rear subframe has 4 subframe bushings and 1 rear differential bushing on it. Use the press to knock out the subframe bushings and differential bushings, and be shocked how "good" bad bushings can be. These did not like coming out in one piece.... You definitely get much better at it once youve done a few. I could probably knock out all the bushings and ball joints very quickly now that ive done it once



Dont forget, grease helps everything, but becomes a mess, keep towels handy.


With the AKG subframe and front diff bushing...the bushings simply knock right in with some decent taps with a 4lb sledge.


Next was the rear diff casings 2 bushings. Again, use grease, the proper sockets and press em out. Also the AKG bushings for these knocked in as well. I also showed a picture of the rear casing and the inside of the diff. For those wondering how their speed sensor works on a bmw, it simply detects that movement of that small plate with extensions in the diff to the right of the clutch packs. You also get to see my new 3.64 4-clutch 60% lockup rear differential in the last picture.





Next up was the Rear trailings arms. I am replacing all the ball joints as well as the bushings back there. With the Rear trailing arm bushings, first knock the weak metal sleeves inwards so you can pop a socket on there, and proceed to use the press. As for the ball joints, press, or the ball joint removal tool actually worked really well... Here is everything out. Next update will show how to install the new ball joints as well as cleaning up the subframe, control arm bushings and possible reinstall.



Also a sidenote: Even if you read the rules like 20 times over, you can overlook a single sentence and change things dramatically. I messed up and missed a +3 point mod that I just installed. This means I am now +2 points over my TTC classing. I could either throw the cat-back back on, the stock intake manifold....or change up my suspension. Sway bars are worth +2, after doing a lot of research, I had always known I wanted to go back to softer or no sway bars to help put down power in the rear and reduce outside tire lifting. However, I had needed the extra roll control that the anti-sway bars provided. Also, I will be getting a custom "The Racer's Market" tune in March while down there. Its going to cost me a pretty penny as they will be optimizing my setup, so I didnt want to have the exhaust or intake manifold not on that id actually be using.

So I decided to go with a much better suspension setup. After talks with Bimmerworld and Eric Wong, I upped my ante from buying AST, to now ill be ordering some Motons. Bimmerworld and James Clay will be helping me choose springs rates, compression etc. so im hoping this will tide me over for a long time. And the Motons are a very well known good quantity, while AST has been used at the track and do VERY well, ive heard issues with blowing them, and some of their designs (such as their sway bar tabs on the shock body), left me wondering wtf they were thinking. Itll be a pretty penny over the ASTs...heres to hoping its worth it.