02-08-2008, 11:58 AM
Dunno if I've posted about this here or not, but I've had a problem with a P0141 CEL for a while now, meaning the Bank 1 O2 sensor 1 is dead. I bought a new one to replace it and my friend and mechanic in VA was trying to replace it for me when he heard the thread in the bung start to strip. He stopped, screwed it back in and left it as it was because I was moving literally the next day and wasn't sure what I wanted to do. Apparently the sensors come from the factory screwed in VERY tight to the manifold and this is a pretty common occurrence.
So now I'm faced with some options. I'm trying to keep my costs as low as possible since I'm closing pretty soon on the house.
1) Free CEL fix. Basically I wire the sensor leads on the ECU harness from B1S1 to B2S1 to trick the ECU into thinking the O2 sensor is working. Works fine until the second bank's sensor (cylinders 4-6) decides to die. Desireable because it's free, not desireable because if an injector sticks open or there is some knocking in the first 3 cylinders, it will go undetected. Being as reliability is key for me, I'm not leaning toward this option despite its fantastic price.
2) Pull the manifold and the sensors, retap the bung or replace the bung if the job gets botched. My buddy I think has the tools to retap it and said he'd be willing to help me do it. This is desireable also because it's free, but there is some uncertainty as to whether or not it will work and I can't afford for my car to be down for a couple of days. What we don't have is welding tools so replacing the bung, if it came to that, would just add cost and more downtime.
3) Purchase an OEM manifold and just do the simple swap. I've found used OEM manifolds for about $100 not including shipping (~$40-$50). Many of these of course have stripped bungs, some do not so it's kind of hit or miss. I'd of course find out before I bought it.
4) Purchase an aftermarket manifold and just do the simple swap. I negotiated a killer deal ($210 shipped) on ceramic coated Toyomoto headers and Y-pipe and I think the gasket I need too. Downside: most expensive option. Upside: More power! :twisted: , only about a $60 difference once shipping is factored in (probably less once gasket is factored in) for more exhaust pieces, I can probably flip the OEM manifold to recuperate the costs.
Thoughts??? I'm *this* close to pulling the trigger on the aftermarket headers, but I thought maybe you guys had some input.
So now I'm faced with some options. I'm trying to keep my costs as low as possible since I'm closing pretty soon on the house.
1) Free CEL fix. Basically I wire the sensor leads on the ECU harness from B1S1 to B2S1 to trick the ECU into thinking the O2 sensor is working. Works fine until the second bank's sensor (cylinders 4-6) decides to die. Desireable because it's free, not desireable because if an injector sticks open or there is some knocking in the first 3 cylinders, it will go undetected. Being as reliability is key for me, I'm not leaning toward this option despite its fantastic price.
2) Pull the manifold and the sensors, retap the bung or replace the bung if the job gets botched. My buddy I think has the tools to retap it and said he'd be willing to help me do it. This is desireable also because it's free, but there is some uncertainty as to whether or not it will work and I can't afford for my car to be down for a couple of days. What we don't have is welding tools so replacing the bung, if it came to that, would just add cost and more downtime.
3) Purchase an OEM manifold and just do the simple swap. I've found used OEM manifolds for about $100 not including shipping (~$40-$50). Many of these of course have stripped bungs, some do not so it's kind of hit or miss. I'd of course find out before I bought it.
4) Purchase an aftermarket manifold and just do the simple swap. I negotiated a killer deal ($210 shipped) on ceramic coated Toyomoto headers and Y-pipe and I think the gasket I need too. Downside: most expensive option. Upside: More power! :twisted: , only about a $60 difference once shipping is factored in (probably less once gasket is factored in) for more exhaust pieces, I can probably flip the OEM manifold to recuperate the costs.
Thoughts??? I'm *this* close to pulling the trigger on the aftermarket headers, but I thought maybe you guys had some input.
Posting in the banalist of threads since 2004
2017 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD Premium
Past: 2016 GMC Canyon All Terrain Crew Cab / 2010 Jaguar XFR / 2012 Acura RDX AWD Tech / 2008 Cadillac CTS / 2007 Acura TL-S / 1966 5.0 HO Mustang Coupe
2001 Lexus IS300 / 2004 2.8L big turbo WRX STI / 2004 Subaru WRX / A couple of old trucks
2017 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD Premium
Past: 2016 GMC Canyon All Terrain Crew Cab / 2010 Jaguar XFR / 2012 Acura RDX AWD Tech / 2008 Cadillac CTS / 2007 Acura TL-S / 1966 5.0 HO Mustang Coupe
2001 Lexus IS300 / 2004 2.8L big turbo WRX STI / 2004 Subaru WRX / A couple of old trucks