Power Steering Removal

[Dave]

OK
So Rex's motor is pretty much dead. Luckily I have a spare motor and a brand new head, so that is going in soon. I figure I might as well delete the power steering while I have the motor out of the car.
My question is, what needs to be done to the rack so ensure it's survival in this process? I know that simply removing the pump and getting a new accessory belt will not fix all my problems. I want to do it right and make it as easy as possible to turn the car, without the loss of power that power steering causes. Any input from anybody that has done this before?

[ScottyB]

as far as i understand you can simply drain the fluid out of the rack, and plug the hole the PS line went into. i don't think the fluid has to remain in the rack for any particular reason.

[JohnC]

So Rex's motor is pretty much dead.

Hahaha... It's your motor now

I'm removing the HICAS rear-actuator from the Z - basically the Stillen part I bought just braces the rear tie-rods and plugs up the PS-line holes (and re-routes one back on itself to fool the computer)... The stupid thing is polished aluminum

[PDenbigh]

In XR's, we have to get a different steering rack all together. (The one we use is a modified pinto rack..lol...that was manual steering from teh start).

It would make since that the only part that would need beefing up would be the shaft leading to the rack. Or maybe the gear and the rack too? I'm trying to think of parts that would now be under more strain since you wouldn't have power assist.

In the modified rack for the XR, I know it has a thicker shaft (stay away perverts), but I'm not sure about the innards.

Maybe that helps?

Pete

P.S. Dave - Still need to sandblast?

[.RJ]

You should be able to get by with just draining the rack.

If you wanted to be pimpy, however you could pull the hoses out of the rack, and install some AN fittings in there and loop the two together.



And run that to a catch can of sorts (tilton clutch master cyl reservoir)

[Evan]

as far as i understand you can simply drain the fluid out of the rack, and plug the hole the PS line went into. i don't think the fluid has to remain in the rack for any particular reason.

This is exactly what the SM guys do.
Keeping the fluid in the rack just makes it harder to turn, so definately drain.

[Dave]

yeah Pete, I'll try to come by sometime soon and get that last pipe done.
I guess I'll just drain the rack and plug it for now and see how that goes. If it is too much of a PITA to turn, I'll try the resevoir route and see how that goes.

[.RJ]

Depends on the car - I dont know anything about 240 racks. Some honda guys have gotten away with it, others have had their steeirng racks develop a significant amount of play in it. Realtime Racing used the loop+reservoir method on their WC ITR's.

[white_2kgt]

Must be a ford thing, but mustang guys also get a manual rack. Fox lake makes a great one for us. Why do you want to delete PS? are the brakes next??

--chad

[.RJ]

Why wouldnt you toss the p/s for a track car?

[white_2kgt]

I was not aware the supra was a track only car.

--chad

[Mike]

I was not aware the supra was a track only car.

--chad

it's not the supra i don't think...

[white_2kgt]

oh

--chad

[Evan]

manual steering on a street car is not fun, but you get used to it.

[Mike]

yeah, i hated it like the first 2 weeks. i hardly notice now.

[Chris]

Its not bad at all. The only time I notice is in parking spaces after I've lifted. But then again, its usually on skinny ass 13" wheels. When I put the track wheels on, its more noticable.

[BLINGMW]

I don't really know how people get away with draining the rack, doesn't it need some sort of lubricant? In my case, I just blocked off the holes, some others make a loop out of one hose. The BEST way, from what I gather, other than actually buying a manual rack, is to drain it and put some Redline or other similar synthetic grease in there. Not trying to fill it up, but enough to keep the pinion and other moving parts lubed.

FWIW, I didn't miss it on my cracked E30 either. I'm gonna go ahead and claim that any RWD car close to 2500lbs or less really doesn't need it. I can afford to expend just a little energy myself when I'm parking. Good to hear you FWD guys don't miss it much either, it was my understanding that those cars usually needed it more, but aparently not!

[.RJ]

Or you could remove the rack, remove the seals, drill out the pressure orafices/fittings, reinstall and refill. There wont be any resistance to the fluid moving around.