As many of you know, I'm in the process of building a Datsun 240z to be used for track duty. It currently has a carb'd 2.4L I6 that I intend to run while I sort the car's other systems out. However, I imagine I'll be ready to step up to bigger power once I feel comfortable with the car. Therefore, I'm posing this hypothetical question with you guys to get some input and thoughts...
My current horsepower goals are around 300hp, with the ability to go higher. I will most likely be sticking with a turbo inline-6 setup, although I'm not opposed to other ideas... If it has a turbo, I'm trying to stay away from laggy setups to get my 300 (yes, I realize this is mostly a function of the turbo & piping).
Engine 1:
Very low-tech, fuel injected turbo from the early '80s. This is an easy drop in and drive swap. It is also very low-budget, although these motors are getting some age on them and starting to get harder to find in good shape. It can get 300hp fairly easily using bolt-ons, but going much beyond that will require some beefing up of various bits or risking engine failure. Estimated cost to install and reach goal: $2000
Engine 2:
A more advanced design from the early '90s, this motor is still fairly plentiful. It has documented flaws, which contributes to being fairly cheap and easy to acquire. Installation is a bit of custom work, but it has been numerous times and should be easy to find resources. Meeting the power goal is very cheap and easy, once I address the flaws in the engine (not particularly expensive); there is a lot of potential and shouldn't need serious building until approaching 400+hp. Estimated cost to install and reach goal: $3200
Engine 3:
My final choice is newer, from the late '90s, and seems to be plentiful overseas although not offered here (if the car were a daily driver, that would immediately rule it out). This will also require some fabrication, but again I will not be the breaking new barriers here and have resources that have done it before. The motor is very capable and still commands a relatively hefty price, but will meet my power goals in stock form and can probably handle any power figure I will ever seek. Estimated cost to install and reach goal: $4000
I have intentionally left out what engines are being considered because I want to hear people's suggestions and consider more ideas. This is in long-term planning stages and I can still be easily swayed if anybody has an incredible idea.
I would say whatever your most reliable choice would be. If you need to sacrifice initial investment to make sure it's reliable now and at whatever power levels in the future, especially if it's going to get run really hard at the track, it's definitely worth it. So I dont know exactly what engines you are talking about but that is my 2 cents.
Posting in the banalist of threads since 2004
2017 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD Premium
Past: 2016 GMC Canyon All Terrain Crew Cab / 2010 Jaguar XFR / 2012 Acura RDX AWD Tech / 2008 Cadillac CTS / 2007 Acura TL-S / 1966 5.0 HO Mustang Coupe
2001 Lexus IS300 / 2004 2.8L big turbo WRX STI / 2004 Subaru WRX / A couple of old trucks
If it's long-term, go for the best.
I Am Mike
4 wheels: '01 RAV4 (Formerly '93 Civic CX, '01 S2000, '10 GTI, '09 A4 Avant)
2 wheels: '12 Surly Cross-Check Custom | '14 Trek Madone 2.1 105 | '17 Norco Threshold SL Force 1 | '17 Norco Revolver 9.2 FS | '18 BMC Roadmachine 02 Two | '19 Norco Search XR Steel (Formerly '97 Honda VFR750F, '05 Giant TCR 2, '15 WeThePeople Atlas 24, '10 Scott Scale 29er XT, '11 Cervelo R3 Rival, '12 Ridley X-Fire Red)
No longer onyachin.
I know exactly what you're considering and what made you start to consider it :twisted: I'm not hating....they're so smooooooth....
All I can really say is if it was my car, I'd go with the newest motor possible, keep it stock (bottom end, cams, fuel, whatever) until everything else is sorted, then overbuild it for 300hp when the funds allow for it so you know its not being stressed over long periods of time at certain rpm levels and dare I say boost levels. Plus, doing that will give you room to grow.
Though I do have a weird hard on for a blow-through turbo carb'ed setup (awful for the track I'm sure), and the L28-T is still hot and bothersome. I'm interested to see how this pans out...
not a daily driver, long-term project..? make it sweet - go for the homerun
LSx
/thread
(09-25-2019, 03:18 PM)V1GiLaNtE Wrote: I think you need to see a mental health professional.
I was going to say:
But then
.RJ Wrote:LSx
/thread

Quite.
Dave I know you hate hate hate this idea (although I don't know why) but with a yee-haw Vee Eight son! you can have your cake and eat it too. Easy swap, tons of horsepower, and reliable as a rock. Looks good under engine bays too! I mean look at this:
Like it was designed to fit in there.
1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass 442
never underestimate the importance of "drop in and drive"
IMO do the most reliable swap. driving > wrenching and considering the age and intentions of the car, you're going to be spending alot of time on many other parts of the car and probably don't want to spend forever just trying to get it to move under it's own power. reliable may be the modern or the old swap...either way i think it would be the best choice. if you plan to keep the car long term you can always change your mind later if you want some exotic powerplant (thoughts of the 1JZ debacle come to mind).
also, 300hp is going to move that sumbitch down the road in a beastly manner. any amount of power over that would just be icing to me.
i'm also in the LSx boat but if you want to keep an inline engine in there you don't have too many places to turn.
2010 Civic Si
2019 4Runner TRD Off-Road
--------------------------
Past: 03 Xterra SE 4x4 | 05 Impreza 2.5RS | 99.5 A4 Quattro 1.8T | 01 Accord EX | 90 Maxima GXE | 96 Explorer XLT
Trailblazer inline 6.
Chevrolet availability (parts in the store, at dealer, and junkyard), modern design, carbed if you want (as seen here), stock power level is 285hp, fuel injection of course. That carb setup seems a little hokey (and too tall).
The downside is fabrication and mating to attaching to driveline.
But yeah, hard to argue with LSx. Meets all goals except cylinders and configuration.
Current: 1985 LS1 Corvette | 2014 328i Wagon F31
Former: 2010 Ford Edge | 1999 Integra GS
I have a little bit of a rub near lock but if you are turned to lock on a track there are other problems already...
Steve85 Wrote:But yeah, hard to argue with LSx. Meets or excedes all goals.
ftfy
only because I'd love an LSx Miata or FD or something.
1994 Ford Ranger
2004 Honda S2000
2007 BMW X3
Oh if you can fit an LS engine under that hood then that's a no brainer unless like someone said you're trying to stick to a specific type of engine for whatever reason. You're going to start off probably just north of 300whp right off the bat and it is SO easy and reliable to add more horsepower in the future.
You can find junkyard LSx's cheap btw...
Posting in the banalist of threads since 2004
2017 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD Premium
Past: 2016 GMC Canyon All Terrain Crew Cab / 2010 Jaguar XFR / 2012 Acura RDX AWD Tech / 2008 Cadillac CTS / 2007 Acura TL-S / 1966 5.0 HO Mustang Coupe
2001 Lexus IS300 / 2004 2.8L big turbo WRX STI / 2004 Subaru WRX / A couple of old trucks
ScottyB Wrote:1JZ debacle
See? Debacle!
:lol:
(09-25-2019, 03:18 PM)V1GiLaNtE Wrote: I think you need to see a mental health professional.
v8...fuck anything turboed.
2020 Ford Raptor
2009 Z06
1986.5 Porsche 928S
D_Eclipse9916 Wrote:fuck anything turboed.
How about a 3.2L M3 motor with cams :wink:
It preserves the inline 6'edness.... :dunno:
The only thing that stops a bad guy with a van is a good guy with a van
When Chad built his car, he saved the engine for last. He got the suspension and brakes done first, and only when he blew up his stock GT engine did he upgrade to the Cobra engine.
Had I to do the XR all over again, I would go this route as well. I would really encourage you to drop in an engine and drive it while working on the suspension and brakes and other stuff that pops up.
Then, when that is sorted, I'd suggest putting in an LSx. If, or when, I blow the XR's engine, I'll likely put in an aluminum V8.
Peter
http://www.85xr.com
1985 Merkur XR4Ti Track Car
2013 Ford F-150 FX4 Ecoboost
E46 BMW 330Ci Sport 5spd
1973 Honda CL125S
1985 Honda CX500
2013 Arctic Cat 700 ATV
2017 Onewheel +
BLINGMW Wrote:D_Eclipse9916 Wrote:fuck anything turboed.
How about a 3.2L M3 motor with cams :wink:
Channing, dammit. This is why we can't have nice things.
1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass 442
euro 3.2! :bootyshake:
The only thing that stops a bad guy with a van is a good guy with a van
P.S.
I would go with either option 1 or option 3. The extra $800 you spend on option 3 will far outweigh the time you spend if you have to fuss with option 2. You'll have to do fab work either way too.
Instead of some overseas import engine for Option 3, though, go with something mega popular, available, endless aftermarket, and a dime a dozen, like an LSx.
http://www.85xr.com
1985 Merkur XR4Ti Track Car
2013 Ford F-150 FX4 Ecoboost
E46 BMW 330Ci Sport 5spd
1973 Honda CL125S
1985 Honda CX500
2013 Arctic Cat 700 ATV
2017 Onewheel +
PDenbigh Wrote:go with something mega popular, available, endless aftermarket, and a dime a dozen, like an LSx.
$3000 BUY IT NOW
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/96-97-98-99-E36-M3-3.2-LITER-ENGINE-RUNS-GREAT-BMW_W0QQitemZ300289857602QQcmdZViewItem">http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/96-97-98 ... dZViewItem</a><!-- m -->
:lol:
(srsly though, I don't know why you'd want to screw around with a turbo for track use if you can get the power you want with a proven NA motor. Yes, like the LS...or.... others..... come to mind...)
The only thing that stops a bad guy with a van is a good guy with a van
|