Timing issue?

[Jeff]

So, I am assuming here that timing is a generic issue so MM might be able to shed some light. The van got a new timing belt among many other things this weekend. I also removed the balance shafts, which might have something to do with the low RPM vibrations.

When first started car runs rough until you give it some gas. Then it idles fine at about 950-1000rpm. Coming to a stop at lights sometimes it dips as low as 750rpm and it runs rough. If you stop quickly and put it in reverse (as if sniping a parking spot) it almost stalls. Then it recovers and runs rough, but occasionally hiccups (almost stalls) as you go backward.

Are these symptoms of having the timing advanced or retarded? Can I fix it by simply turning the distributor or is the fact that in general it idles smooth enough reason to just leave it alone?



To see this view you mist disassemble all the covers and pulleys and belts from the engine...the suxors.

[Jeff]

will a car even run 180 out?

[.RJ]

will a car even run 180 out?

Nope.

Verify the ignition timing with a timing light. If its not way off, and the cam timing lines up (I doubt it would even idle well if it was off), then you have a fueling issue - its running way too rich. How do the plugs look?

[Andy]

will a car even run 180 out?

Nope.

Verify the ignition timing with a timing light. If its not way off, and the cam timing lines up (I doubt it would even idle well if it was off), then you have a fueling issue - its running way too rich. How do the plugs look?

Verify ignition timing with a light before you start thinking about anything else. That is standard operating procedure after a timing belt. Also, how did remove the balance shaft and keep the sprocket?

[D_Eclipse9916]

boost leak, that will cause a high idle and also when you hit the clutch or come to a stop, the rpms will dip down very roughly and come back up or it will simply die.

First verify the ignition timing, then check for boost leaks, and pull your plugs too, the boost leak will cause your car to run lean at idle and rich at full throttle.

[Jeff]

Actually, the boost leak was some how fixed during the repair process. I had to remove the intercooler to check the TDC at the transmission and when I put it back in...my boost leaks are gone. I have all 11psi on a hard pull.

Cam timing- I don't think it would run either RJ. So I'm thinking I got the distributor one tooth off.

Timing light- how do I do this? I don't have a marked fan clutch or anything cool like that...

Balance shafts- The BS unit was run off the crank, not part of the timing belt system.

[.RJ]

Timing light- how do I do this? I don't have a marked fan clutch or anything cool like that...

Do you have a TDC mark on your crank pulley? Thats what I always have used.

[Andy]

Timing light- how do I do this? I don't have a marked fan clutch or anything cool like that...

Do you have a TDC mark on your crank pulley? Thats what I always have used.

Iif you have a flywheel inspection hole, you could have marks on the flywheel as well.

[Jeff]

Iif you have a flywheel inspection hole, you could have marks on the flywheel as well.

AH HA! Smart Aizan learns me again.

[HAULN-SS]

I've seen a car with a cam in 180 out - backfires out the carb like whoa