Definite next suspension mod...Finally found!

[D_Eclipse9916]

I have been autocrossing my car with POS Intrax springs for the past year and before that stock springs the year before that and I just cant stand them. I know what you guys are saying....but if I am lowered, I need to get an alignment, however I also need a camber kit if im going to be lowered....SOOOO why not just get some badass stuff if im going to do it, instead of doing it twice? (well unless I Get a fabulous deal, like new intrax springs for 96 shipped when I can sell them for like 140 used).

Track time is actually a huge risk for me as it is my daily driver so thats why I havent been on the track as much. It is almost a lot more beneficial to me to get mods that I can enjoy in autocross (which I do wether or not I have money) and hard daily driving.

Also, I am building up track credits through being a worker, so I will be on track with you guys soon enough. Come on, what other Freshman has even been on track, nevertheless even autocrossed?
I will do an HPDE by the end of this summer, thats not a question. I am trying to get the car ready to do a BUNCH of HPDE sessions next year (AKA I still need to get an aftermarket radiator, oil cooler, and maybe, not needed but seats and a roll cage) But I do need the radiator and oil cooler. Blocking my radiator with a big FMIC is required as the sidemounts wouldnt be able to keep the intake temperatures down for constant 350whp for 30 minutes sessions. Actually having an FMIC will cool my car better.


As far as suspension, I WILL get this piece instead of some crappy 200 dollar front camber kit (even the good ones are known to break). Plus it reduces VERY important weight.

Gerald, I would like to know what Teins are adjusted seperately. Throughout their entire line, even the HA shocks they cannot be adjusted seperately. In order for a proper suspension setup, this is vital. Spending 1200 dollars on Teins, when I can spend another 600 bucks to get WAYYYYYYY better suspension is just logical.



Edit- Rj the springs used are Hypercoils. Here are some specs...

A DG-designed, ATI Performance Engineering upper mount, featuring the high-quality (and thus, expensive) racing-series spherical bearing, nickel-plated 4140 spacers, and a hard-anodized CNC-machined 6061-T6 hat and stainless hardware.

- a Koni coilover kit, featuring a coaxial upper spring hat

- a 2.25" ID Hypercoil spring (600 front, 300 rear) with a helper spring

- a 2.25" Torrington bearing under the spring, to reduce spring stiction and make turning the ride height adjuster easier

Picture:

[.RJ]

..but if I am lowered, I need to get an alignment, however I also need a camber kit if im going to be lowered....

That is absolutely not true. You would need more than -3 deg of camber to cause excess wear on the street, and if you get that much by lowering you are going to run in to a lot of other problems as well (bottoming, bump steer, etc). Excess toe is what kills tires, because it forces the inside (or outside) edge of the tire to scrub all the time, and just destroys it. If you dont need it, dont get it...... save the $$. I do not have adj arms for front camber on my car.

Gerald, I would like to know what Teins are adjusted seperately.

The RS and N1 models allow separate compression and rebound adjustment. But for most of it, its not needed and may introduce additional problems. I'm going to have my konis ( 'race' valved yellows) sent back over the winter to shorten the shock bodies and get more rebound damping, but I'm not going to convert to DA because with those you will lose some range of adjustment. Just do the research

[.RJ]

Are those konis revalved, or just put on a shock dyno to verify proper operation? There are only 3 places in the US authorized to rebuild/revalve Konis (and Koni is one of them).

Do you have any links that show what the front/rear suspension of the DSM looks like? Do you know what the motion ratios are? I'm just curious why those spring rates are chosen - you can put any rate spring on it you want with a 2.5" ID spring seat.

[D_Eclipse9916]

Who says im not running more than 3 degrees of camber? I know my toe is completely out of spec too. Thats what killed my pirellis, trust me, (well that and doing like 10 autocrosses on em while daily driving for a year). I have told many people that my toe is out of spec when they ask why it died. Trust me, I have a lot of shit to take care of before I get these, but these WILL be on the list. This weekend/however long I can keep my car from running to avoid gas, I will be putting in a bunch of shit (lots of engine stuff), but also some suspension stuff, new tie rods, new sway bar endlinks, and hopefully some new sway bars if this guys buys some stuff from me.

I was wrong on the Teins, I did not know they did make the RS models anymore (thought they were discontinued?) I Should have checked before saying anything.

[Sijray21]

That is absolutely not true. You would need more than -3 deg of camber to cause excess wear on the street, and if you get that much by lowering you are going to run in to a lot of other problems as well (bottoming, bump steer, etc). Excess toe is what kills tires, because it forces the inside (or outside) edge of the tire to scrub all the time, and just destroys it. If you dont need it, dont get it...... save the $$. I do not have adj arms for front camber on my car.

i disagree. i lowered my civic initially with GC's and KYB's. It had about -2.1 camber in the rear and they wore excessively. The fronts weren't doing that great either so i bought camber kits all the way around. Before it killed my Kumho's i had on there and after the kits i set the camber at about -1.4 to -1.5 all the way around. Less camber wear but still more than i would've liked for as many miles as i drove it. Anything -2.0 or more will give you excessive camber wear. i don't even want to think about -3.0. I'd also like to mention that i got an alignment done every 10 months or so to ensure that the toe was inline. It was never really out of line during this time period.

If you really want to spend the money on something like this i don't think it would hurt. Although i don't think it's quite necessary for you at the moment, it could be beneficial in the long-run. Unless you're paying someone else to install the suspension components why not just settle for the minor upgrade. I would assume the only thing you're paying for are the alignments when they're performed. (despite's Navin's attempts to allow you to think that 'eye-balled' alignments are the way to go )

[.RJ]

i disagree. i lowered my civic initially with GC's and KYB's. It had about -2.1 camber in the rear and they wore excessively

But, if you had gotten an alignment and set the toe to zero (not "in spec" by the tire shop donkey, but zero) then you wouldnt have had any excess wear.

Camber can kill tires, but toe does it so much faster that you'd never notice the wear from it. And remember, that toe changes with camber. Put camber back to spec, and it puts the toe back in spec with it.

[WRXtranceformed]

What you need is one of these homeboy =D

TeinFlexWithEDFCFTW!

[.RJ]

You could probably make your own with some servo motors, or the OEM shock adj motors from some of the 90's cars (supra, t-bird, a few others)

But it wouldnt be JDM bling

[G.Irish]

You could probably make your own with some servo motors, or the OEM shock adj motors from some of the 90's cars (supra, t-bird, a few others)

But it wouldnt be JDM bling

I'd like to see you try to match the JDM bling for $300

[.RJ]

I'd like to see you try to match the JDM bling for $300

In terms of function?

I'll take that bet.

[navin]

I do need a real alignment one of these days...

but i plan on replacing worn bushings over winter, and doing 2 track events over summer..

car has held up so far, soo hopefully it will for 2 more

[Jeff]

someone put this over in tech. There is some interesting stuff here and it would make more sense to be over there. That site doesn't have much for FWD Chrysler