Article on using cheap rotors for track duty
#1
Good, concise article on using cheap brake rotors for track duty:

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.ogracing.com/blog/2014/10/ask-brake-nerd-part-1-everyone-says-buy-cheap-rotors-listen/">http://www.ogracing.com/blog/2014/10/as ... rs-listen/</a><!-- m -->

TL/DR: Cheap ones from china are impregnated with oil with makes proper material transfer nearly impossible, metal is low quality, and they aren't balanced well. Also, author claimes that size-for-size, iron rotors out stop carbon ones. Interesting.

Thoughts?

I have two piece rotors on my car, but I still opt for the lower cost rotors that are covered in oil. And I always fight pad transfer problems. This article makes me consider getting good rotors next time.

Peter
http://www.85xr.com

1985 Merkur XR4Ti Track Car
2013 Ford F-150 FX4 Ecoboost
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1973 Honda CL125S
1985 Honda CX500
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#2
PDenbigh Wrote:Good, concise article on using cheap brake rotors for track duty:

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.ogracing.com/blog/2014/10/ask-brake-nerd-part-1-everyone-says-buy-cheap-rotors-listen/">http://www.ogracing.com/blog/2014/10/as ... rs-listen/</a><!-- m -->

TL/DR: Cheap ones from china are impregnated with oil with makes proper material transfer nearly impossible, metal is low quality, and they aren't balanced well. Also, author claimes that size-for-size, iron rotors out stop carbon ones. Interesting.

Thoughts?

I have two piece rotors on my car, but I still opt for the lower cost rotors that are covered in oil. And I always fight pad transfer problems. This article makes me consider getting good rotors next time.

Peter


Bought 2-piece PFC balling rotors...I didnt pay retail but retail is ~$700 for 2 rotors. Didn't notice a damn difference between that and my regular $29 rockauto blanks... If the PFCs didn't make a difference, "brembo and brembo-likes" certainly aren't going to be any better.

What pads are you using? I just recently tried Pagid Yellow RS29 that are sworn by PCA Racers after having used PFC08s for the past 4 years and loving them. Suggested by PCA racers should have been the first sign I shouldn't use them.

This was the outcome of my "experimentation" just 2 weekends in. Won't be running Pagid agains.
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#3
Interesting. The balancing difference makes sense. And so does the oil. But the oil is going to bake out, so I wonder, how long does that take?

PDenbigh Wrote:...And I always fight pad transfer problems.

How do you know when this is happening? And does it eventually stop (when the rotor runs out of oil)? It would seem to me at 1000 deg, waaaaaay beyond the flashpoint of whatever oil was used, it would all be gone pretty fast.
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#4
I've only ever run RockAuto or Advance Auto cheapies, and the car always stops very well... I definitely notice stopping ability changing based on the pads I run, but I can't say I've had complaints about rotors.
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#5
BLINGMW Wrote:Interesting. The balancing difference makes sense. And so does the oil. But the oil is going to bake out, so I wonder, how long does that take?

PDenbigh Wrote:...And I always fight pad transfer problems.

How do you know when this is happening? And does it eventually stop (when the rotor runs out of oil)? It would seem to me at 1000 deg, waaaaaay beyond the flashpoint of whatever oil was used, it would all be gone pretty fast.


Vibrate like heck for a while, then eventually calms down from an earthquake to minor rumble. I can visually see inconsistent coloration and feel inconsistent surfaces on the rotors.

I think part of what they are concerned about with the oil is that it contaminates the pad too.
http://www.85xr.com

1985 Merkur XR4Ti Track Car
2013 Ford F-150 FX4 Ecoboost
E46 BMW 330Ci Sport 5spd
1973 Honda CL125S
1985 Honda CX500
2013 Arctic Cat 700 ATV
2017 Onewheel +
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#6
D_Eclipse9916 Wrote:Bought 2-piece PFC balling rotors...I didnt pay retail but retail is ~$700 for 2 rotors. Didn't notice a damn difference between that and my regular $29 rockauto blanks... If the PFCs didn't make a difference, "brembo and brembo-likes" certainly aren't going to be any better.

What pads are you using? I just recently tried Pagid Yellow RS29 that are sworn by PCA Racers after having used PFC08s for the past 4 years and loving them. Suggested by PCA racers should have been the first sign I shouldn't use them.

This was the outcome of my "experimentation" just 2 weekends in. Won't be running Pagid agains.
[Image: 10153737_10102007369512279_8095069665443...08c1581b7f]

Good data points!

I'm using carbotech XP-10s or 12s on some US Brake rotors.

Wow on the Pagids!
http://www.85xr.com

1985 Merkur XR4Ti Track Car
2013 Ford F-150 FX4 Ecoboost
E46 BMW 330Ci Sport 5spd
1973 Honda CL125S
1985 Honda CX500
2013 Arctic Cat 700 ATV
2017 Onewheel +
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#7
I really think that this might matter brand to brand and who is making the off brand blanks, the tolerances the manufacturer allows, etc.

When I compared a set of OEM rotors for my Talon vs the Advanced Auto blanks, the OEMs had significantly thicker disk walls (compared with longer cooling vanes on the blanks) and weighed a good 5 to 10 lbs more. When I tracked the OEMs, I experienced significantly less fade and no warping, where as the 2 previous sets of off brand rotors warped pretty significantly after a single HPDE weekend.

To each his own, use what works for you :dunno:
Why do people just post what they are thinking? Without thinking.

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