Background: I'm planning on installing an aftermarket oil-pressure gauge in my car. The stock one has proven to be faulty in the past and I'd rather be safe than sorry.
Rather than mess with the inaccessible stock sending unit location, I ordered a Greddy 7M-GTE (Supra turbo) sandwich adapter that arrived today, and I have a Corolla(AE86) filter which it is meant to use to clear the frame.
So now its time to order a gauge and install the whole thing. First, here are the instructions in Japanese from Greddy:
And here is a visual guide I came across that involves a similar adapter on a Silvia
http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index...pic=253944
So my question is, would an Autometer electrical oil pressure gauge come with its own sending unit? Or is that something else I need to buy? If so got any recommendations?
I've never attempted this before and I don't have any experience with gauges. Between this adapter, the filter, and an Autometer gauge, would I have everything needed for this job? From those instructions, where would the sending unit screw into?
Thank ya.
The Autometer gauge will come with it's own sending unit. However, it will not fit the sandwitch adapter. You'll need to source some adapters... from the install I did, I seem to recall that they were an odd metric pipe thread. And the Autometer is an American pipe thread. Sorry. It's not fun.
The sending unit will fit in one of the ports on the "outside" of the sandwitch adapter. If memory serves, it fits where the large plug is on the outside - the two smaller plugs, which mount flush, are for smaller senders.
Forgive the photobucket editing
I've circled the install point in red. If my memory is off, though, it'll install in the same 'place' on the adapter, just using one of the two smaller ports.
The gauge should come with the sender unit. Picture 3 in the link you posted shows everything you need to know - sender unit is at the top, block off both ports on the right with the bolts provided as shown. Use teflon tape on the bolts and sending unit (ignore thread sealant BS, the sender unit will be more than grounded to the plate), just leave the last 2 or 3 threads on the end of the bolts / sender unit bare so you don't get teflon tape in your motor.
Only thing I would be worried about is how the smaller filter will affect your oil pressure and filtration at higher RPMs. That small filter will most likely switch to bypass as soon as you start revving the motor out. You might consider adding a filter relocation kit into the mix so you can run an OEM filter (maybe 2 if you are feeling baller.)
Why do people just post what they are thinking? Without thinking.
2012 Ford Mustang
1995 BMW 540i/A
1990 Eagle Talon TSI AWD
Get a mechanical gauge. Electrical oil pressure gauges are slow to respond, so if you are seeing momentary drops in pressure they may not show up on the gauge.
(09-25-2019, 03:18 PM)V1GiLaNtE Wrote: I think you need to see a mental health professional.
And mount it out of the cabin, like an old hot rod. Channel the gods
Bad example, but it's still cool, and keeps oil from getting in to your cabin should you have a leakage problem.
Thanks for the replies! Already pretty much answered my questions.
I don't want a mechanical gauge....don't want any leaks/potential hazards and all the necessary tubing. Yes they are more accurate but I don't think the risk is worth the reward. A new electric gauge will hopefully prove more valuable than an iffy stock gauge
Adam, I thought about a relocation kit but like I said the stock location is so hard to reach, I really don't see how it can be done w/o removing the subframe. The sandwich adapter was attractive for its ease of installation, hopefully it'll work. Are you talking about somehow using the kit with the adapter?
Well if you insist on an electrical gauge, its better than nothing - but if you start tracking the car then go mechanical.
Also, dont mount the sender to the block - move it off to the firewall/frame somewhere with a SS line. The vibration will snap the fitting off if its on the block.
(09-25-2019, 03:18 PM)V1GiLaNtE Wrote: I think you need to see a mental health professional.
I'm talking about using an oil filter relocation kit with the adaptor block that you have. They make kits that screw on where the oil filter connects - you then run the oil lines to another location where you mount the filter. So it would be block -> pressure sensor add-on -> relocation kit block -> lines -> oil filter(s). Relocating the oil filter also allows you to add an oil cooler inline.
Why do people just post what they are thinking? Without thinking.
2012 Ford Mustang
1995 BMW 540i/A
1990 Eagle Talon TSI AWD
ViPER1313 Wrote:I'm talking about using an oil filter relocation kit with the adaptor block that you have. They make kits that screw on where the oil filter connects - you then run the oil lines to another location where you mount the filter. So it would be block -> pressure sensor add-on -> relocation kit block -> lines -> oil filter(s). Relocating the oil filter also allows you to add an oil cooler inline.
Pretty much like this,
![[Image: IMG_7599.jpg]](http://www.2kgt.com/images/OilingSystem_2005-03-28/IMG_7599.jpg)
I had a GASP electric oil pressure gauge on my car. Fuck another line to leak. Besides, the accusump maintained pressure for me.
That big brass looking mother fucker is the pressure sending unit. It can be mounted shallow as it doesn't have a 'probe' like a temp gauge does.
More pics here,
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.RJ Wrote:Also, dont mount the sender to the block - move it off to the firewall/frame somewhere with a SS line. The vibration will snap the fitting off if its on the block.
Good point. And even if it doesn't break, the vibration will greatly reduce the life of the sending unit.
Those other small plugs, labeled 1/8PTXXX, I guess that doesn't mean 1/8th inch NPT? That's too bad, that's what the sending unit usually is. You should be able to find the M12 to 1/8th inch NPT adapter you need from a place like egauges.com, then get a line with 1/8th inch on either end, and you're golden. Oh, they might also carry a cheap bracket to mount the sending unit, grab that too. Or, you can go the 'ol hose clamp and zip ties route. :thumbup:
(FWIW, I THINK autometer and others do make a fancier, much more expensive solid state sending unit. Like a stock sennding unit, it's smaller and doesn't mind vibration. It'd make the install much cleaner and easier. It might be worth looking at the price.)
RJ, you're crazy, mechanical just isn't worth the hassle.  Those electric gauges respond pretty darn fast.
The only thing that stops a bad guy with a van is a good guy with a van
:dunno:
(09-25-2019, 03:18 PM)V1GiLaNtE Wrote: I think you need to see a mental health professional.
fo seriously, I want one of those for my GS. :bow:
The only thing that stops a bad guy with a van is a good guy with a van
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