THE ENGINE IS OUT!!!

[Jeff]

Incase anyone isn't familiar with my project I am swapping into a 1989 Dodge Omni a 2.2 Turbo from a Chrysler Lebaron of the same year. As of the 18th of December the engine and transmission have been exercised from the dieing Baron and have been placed on the operating table. As the snow fell my friend Karl and I dropped the beast under the old convertible and as we hoisted the car over the engine I was sad for a moment. But then that went away as I could see a new beginning for this lifeless chunk of 80's Aluminum (end drama here). I'll be posting my questions as this goes along on this thread and anyone who can be of help (as in slaving over it) please tell me. ItÔÇÖs a learning experience for me and I'd like as much input from the club as possible.

MAKE NOTE...
1. 125,000miles
2. Project cost to date - $450.00
3. Stock HP- 175

[Jeff]

Here is my first question to kick it off. Should I save the Turbo car's stock high volume fuel pump? Can it be used in parallel with an aftermarket pump to create volume and pressure?

[KPWSerpiente]

Aftermarket in tank pump such as those sold by walbro are really too cheap (usually 90 bucks or less) to not buy unless that stock pump can push out more than 255 lph. The real question is do you know how much fuel you are going to need, at the pump at the injector...as well as will you need a higher volume rail or a new feed and if applicable a new fuel return line.

-T

[JohnC]

2nd the aftermarket pump...

[Jeff]

The stock rail should be good for what I am doing. I am looking into using a SOHC Neon 2.0 rail on it (just for kicks). I know that the stock pump worked and it will push enough for the stock setup, but the change in turbos and the change in computers might call for a 2nd pump inline. The +20% Mopar Injectors will be used (I don't know any other specs off hand).

I got it to the garage today and saw that the turbo looks to be new, or close too it. The running problem in the old car was the wastegate actuator was unhooked. I'm not sure if I will stick to this turbo or go T3 or even something else. The "Super 60" is no longer available and the remaining new kits are up to $1300.

My biggest concern right now is what to do with the head, should I buy the Mopar "street/strip" head or rebuild my own. That is my current quandary. I'll post some prices and specs tomorrow after some research.

[KPWSerpiente]

Anything put out by mopar would be nice to have. I'm not sure what you mean by the turbo 'looks new' but I'd suggest checking it for shaft play, though keep in mind if it hasn't seen much oil pressure lately it will probably feel a little looser than it actually is.

-T

[Jeff]

The Mopar heads are now all discontinued...I'm so sad. The Turbo is perfect, like new. The shaft is solid and both wheels look great. The question is pretty much Mitsu. or Garret T3 (or T3 style). Once I know what turbo I will be using that determines allot about the rest of the proceedings. I ruined all the oil and coolant lines taking them off because the fittings were seized, so the purchase of new ones is also dependent on which turbo is used.

T3 or Mitsu.? T3- more boost, slower spool. Mitsu.- Less boost, much faster spool.

[ScottyB]

T3 or Mitsu.? T3- more boost, slower spool. Mitsu.- Less boost, much faster spool.

considering it will be in a front drive car...i'd rock the slower spooling, higher boosting turbo. the slow boost might allow you better traction initially off the line maybe?

[mpg9999]

I think for deciding which turbo, you need to take a step back and ask yourself the goals for th car. What do you want it to do? Based on that, how much power do you need to accomplish that? It's much easier to make a decision when you have a purpose for the car.

[Jeff]

What do you want it to do? Based on that, how much power do you need to accomplish that? It's much easier to make a decision when you have a purpose for the car.

I wanna show punks up on the street with a grandma car. Also, just as a matter of sporting fun I want to stay ahead of my buddy's SRT-4 until he goes for the big money mods. On a more serious note, I would say the goal is 13sec 1/4 or better.

[Jeff]

Does anyone know if a "hydrolic cam" will work with roller rockers? This is a confusing question, because the roller rocker system is hydrolic, but there was a standard hydrolic system used from 1983-1987. 1988 on (turbos) were roller rocker set-ups. Mechanical rigs are not recomended for racing. So, can I order a "hydrolic mild comp cam" for a head with roller rockers? This might be vehicle specific but everyone I have asked so far has said to just get it.

[NTIman]

Are the roller rocker arms the same ratio arms as the standard arms? I would imagine so,and since they probably are, i wouldnt see any problem. The only other thing is that the flanks on the cam lobes might have a slightly different profile,but even then i'm not sure.

[Jeff]

I was reading at forwardmotioninc.com that they recomend the use of the late roller rockers on all applications, I am going to ask them. Thanks!