+- Madison Motorsports (https://forum.mmsports.org)
+-- Forum: Technical (https://forum.mmsports.org/forumdisplay.php?fid=4)
+--- Forum: Technical Discussion (https://forum.mmsports.org/forumdisplay.php?fid=11)
+--- Thread: DIY: Front Wheel Bearings E36 (/showthread.php?tid=9511)
DIY: Front Wheel Bearings E36 - D_Eclipse9916 - 07-11-2011
I figured we havent had any DIYs in a while, and I am just getting started logging and being more complete with all my installs/maintenance on the BMW M3. Figured this would help since a lot of us own M3s/track m3s/fix busted e36s.
Difficulty: Intermediate
Tools Required:
Flathead Screwdriver
46MM Socket- 1/2 inch drive
Jack (and of course jack stands)
Breaker Bar 1/2 inch drive
3/8 Socket wrench
16MM Socket
Lug wrench and socket
1/2 inch drive torque Wrench
C-Clamp
Hammer
5.5MM Allen Socket/Wrench
Parts: New Hub/wheel bearing (its one part)
Studs/nuts (if using em)
New hub nut/dust cover
Loc-tite
Automotive grease
Step 1: Jack car up, use jack stands, and remove wheel.
Step 2: Grab a box or something to hold up the caliper. Remove (2) Caliper Bolts holding Caliper to spindle using a 16mm socket and 3/8 Socket Wrench. Slide caliper off and rest on box or wire. Important: Do not let caliper hang or put pressure on caliper line.
Step 3: Remove rotor. Stock BMWs use a 5.5mm allen-head bolt. Remove, along with rotor.
Step 4: In the middle of the hub, there should be a round "cap". Using a flat head screwdriver, remove the dust cap. May have to use the hammer with flathead to deform and remove.
![[Image: ddc0d838.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y81/D_Eclipse9916/ddc0d838.jpg)
Step 5: Once you have removed the cap, you will be able to see a large 46MM Nut holding the hub to the spindle. There should be a small piece of metal that is deformed to ensure the wheel bearing nut does not come lose. Using your flathead screwdriver, pry back so that the nut can be unscrewed.
![[Image: 9f200064.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y81/D_Eclipse9916/9f200064.jpg)
![[Image: 3f166c31.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y81/D_Eclipse9916/3f166c31.jpg)
Step 6: Take your 46MM Socket and breaker bar, and put on wheel bearing nut. Make sure it is completely flat and against the nut. Use some strength and remove the nut. It may require using extra leverage on the breaker bar by also putting your jack handle on the breaker bar. Once it cracks loose, it should be relatively easy to thread nut off.
Step 7: A lot of times grease is missing from the smooth part of the spindle past the threads. Throw some grease on there to aid easy removal of hub. Using both hands on either side of the hub, just pull on the hub and it should slide off with a bit of tugging and pulling. (You can use a hammer to aid, but be careful with light taps moving around the hub for consistent pressure).
Step 8: Clean spindle with a clean towel. Then use automotive grease to grease the "slide" that the wheel bearing slides off of. Ensure there is no grease on the threads.
![[Image: 46533caa.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y81/D_Eclipse9916/46533caa.jpg)
Step 9: Using both hands and equal force all the way around, slide hub bearing on, may take a little force at first.
Step 10: Ensure that the wheel bearing rotates cleanly and smoothly and take your replacement new nut and thread on. Torque this large 46MM nut to 214FT/LBS. Then using the flat-head and hammer, chisel the nut in the open voids to ensure nut does not loosen itself with vibration.
Step 10: Install new dust cap, rotor, and caliper. This is where the C-clamps comes in, you may need to push the caliper piston back in to make sure the caliper goes over the rotor. Torque your wheels and your all set.
![[Image: faee6743.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y81/D_Eclipse9916/faee6743.jpg)
Optional: Installing new studs.
Once you have finished installing the hub and before putting on the new rotor, you may have chosen to switch to studs. To install these studs, first ensure all threads are clean in both the hub and the studs. Bimmerworld's studs comes with heat-activated lock-tite, but if yours are not and have none, please use loc-tite to ensure the studs will not back out.
![[Image: 3b0049db.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y81/D_Eclipse9916/3b0049db.jpg)
![[Image: 1cd848ca.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y81/D_Eclipse9916/1cd848ca.jpg)
Thread them in by hand, then by using the double-nut method (thread one nut on, then the other nut securely to the first nut), tighten to 13ft/lbs or hand-snug. Repeat for all five and your done!
![[Image: 7c6da13c.jpg]](http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y81/D_Eclipse9916/7c6da13c.jpg)
Re: DIY: Front Wheel Bearings - Jake - 07-11-2011
Convenient timing
Re: DIY: Front Wheel Bearings - D_Eclipse9916 - 07-11-2011
Mod: Please update title to say "Front Wheel Bearings E36"
Re: DIY: Front Wheel Bearings - SlimKlim - 07-11-2011
D_Eclipse9916 Wrote:Mod: Please update title to say "Front Wheel Bearings E36"
:thumbup: Kept the "DIY" Dunno if you want that or not.
Re: DIY: Front Wheel Bearings E36 - Jake - 07-11-2011
So DJ, do you happen to have a 46mm socket I could borrow if needed?
Re: DIY: Front Wheel Bearings E36 - D_Eclipse9916 - 07-11-2011
That one is a borrowed one but yes I have one on order coming in.