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+--- Forum: Technical Discussion (https://forum.mmsports.org/forumdisplay.php?fid=11)
+--- Thread: No Clutch Pressure (/showthread.php?tid=7328)
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No Clutch Pressure - JustinG - 05-23-2008
No clutch pressure,
Replaced, MAster slave and clutch line. Bled properly. Held pressure after I replaced the master then an hour later no pressure at all. Slowly push the pedal to the floor and it sticks, slam the clutch and it hold pressure but not enough to do anything. Any ideas????
- Apoc - 05-23-2008
I don't know where you bleeder is but did you do it on a jack? When I replaced my master, slave and line at the track I was having the same problem. If I touched the pedal, it would go to the floor on its own. If I pushed hard, it had feel. It turned out the bleeding needed to be done with the car level, on jack stands, because all the air wasn't bleeding out when it was tilted (even with a pressure bleeder).
Re: No Clutch Pressure - Andy - 05-23-2008
white97dsm Wrote:Bled properly.
Twas not sir. Bleeding a clutch a be a pain in the D. I assume you didn't bench bleed the master cylinder which is making it an even bigger pain. I assume you don't need to have it on a jack since it's a transverse motor.
1) Get a long tube, put a loop in it so air can't get in.
2) Have an assistant pump it the pedal with the bleeder valve closed. Once pressure is builds up to the point that the pedal won't go down, have them apply constant pressure as you open the valve. The assistant keeps his/her feet to the floor until you're done closing the bleeder.
Repeat until the pedal is firm and is at the normal height. Your assistant's knee might need to be replaced after though.
- JustinG - 05-23-2008
master was primed, and it was bled properly and the car was level. Im thinking at the moment, bent clutch fork or pressure plate is shot....but it wouldnt explain the previous intermitten problems, now its just nothin, not really intermitten at all.
- Andy - 05-23-2008
The pressure plate wouldn't cause different pedal pressure, nor would a bent fork. Once a fork is bent or a pressure plate finger is bent or broken, it either works or it doesn't. Your problem sounds like air in the hydrauilic system.
- JustinG - 05-23-2008
well as of now, the clutch is holding pressure. Its not how it used to be, it used to pick up much higher. The clutch pedal is adjusted to the max, and it doesn't start to disengage the clutch until about an inch from the floor. So, its not fully disengaging the clutch, and I have to slam the car into 1st or Reverse often with both hands if i wanna move the car. Ive put a bottle and a half of fluid through it, so if there is air in the line it isn't coming out.
I know a bent fork or a screwed up pressure plate doesn't explain the intermittent problems, but it has progressively gotten worse, and now to the point where the car is drivable if shifting gears is not involved. Any other ideas would be helpful.
- JustinG - 05-23-2008
just found something on the forums, apparently a guy was having this issue for a couple of months and he had a cracked clutch fork that was flexing when he pushed the clutch in until it snapped in half. this would explain the progressively getting worse. If its cracked and the crack got larger and larger allowing for more and more flex. Seem possible????
- Gs dewd - 05-24-2008
There is a better way to bleed the system. You need a good size container and a hand pmp with a small hose. Put brake fluid in container put pumps pickup hose in brake fluid, the outlet hose goes on bleeder valve. Open bleeder valve then pump the brake fluid through system from bottom of car. Make sure master is open and you put rags to catch exxcess fluid. this forces air out the top rather quickly. Also home old is the clutch in your car? I have a spare pressure plate if you need one and a 4 puck clutch disc.
- JustinG - 05-24-2008
yea used a hand pump as well with no luck...
- D_Eclipse9916 - 05-27-2008
dude, tremoving the transmission is last thinkg you want to do. You amde sure to have the line top a botoom of a bottler ight???? I Found it easier to remove transimsiion and engine together ahtn t o remove the tranmission on jason';s car that was jut the transmission. so rullle out everyhting before th clutch fork, if it hasnt been replaced in 75kkk miles with an aftermarket clutch you probably need one.
- D_Eclipse9916 - 05-27-2008
I just realize dther are a lot of speling mistakes and also I am talking about the clutch fork.
- CaptainHenreh - 05-27-2008
D_Eclipse9916 Wrote:I just realize dther are a lot of speling mistakes and also I am talking about the clutch fork.
![[Image: icon_edit.gif]](http://mmsports.org/forum/templates/subSilver/images/lang_english/icon_edit.gif){kind=icon}
- Dave - 05-27-2008
D_Eclipse9916 Wrote:dude, tremoving the transmission is last thinkg you want to do. You amde sure to have the line top a botoom of a bottler ight???? I Found it easier to remove transimsiion and engine together ahtn t o remove the tranmission on jason';s car that was jut the transmission. so rullle out everyhting before th clutch fork, if it hasnt been replaced in 75kkk miles with an aftermarket clutch you probably need one.Friends don't let friends drink and post...
- JustinG - 05-29-2008
Yea.....So.......
Is it good when your Clutch fork and TOB come out as 8 pieces???????
Dropped the tranny, and it was as I expected, a broken clutchfork, the throw out bearing was screwed as well.
Pics to come....
- JustinG - 05-29-2008
3 parts go in, 8 parts come out.....
![[Image: 100_1427.jpg]](http://lh5.ggpht.com/Jgallamore/SD92fM7JaGI/AAAAAAAAALo/ShPtBm3xpv0/s800/100_1427.jpg)
Clutchfork no looky good....
![[Image: 100_1424.jpg]](http://lh3.ggpht.com/Jgallamore/SD9wWs7JaEI/AAAAAAAAALU/BkjEa5_33cw/s800/100_1424.jpg)
Throw out Bearing, once pulled off the shaft fell into these pieces, luckily the clip, was still holding the pieces to the clutchfork, so it wasnt all rattling around screwin up my clutch
![[Image: 100_1425.jpg]](http://lh3.ggpht.com/Jgallamore/SD9yEs7JaFI/AAAAAAAAALg/CGIwni3KN34/s800/100_1425.jpg)
Backing plate of the TOB
![[Image: 100_1428.jpg]](http://lh3.ggpht.com/Jgallamore/SD94Us7JaHI/AAAAAAAAALw/SgBsvvOmTnw/s800/100_1428.jpg)
Inner sleeve that connected to backing plate of TOB....
![[Image: 100_1429.jpg]](http://lh5.ggpht.com/Jgallamore/SD95zM7JaII/AAAAAAAAAL4/ZAAiETVysgY/s800/100_1429.jpg)
- Andy - 05-30-2008
Holy shit. How does shit like that break? Was it WAY past the service interval or have you been living a 1/4 mile at a time.
- HAULN-SS - 05-30-2008
haha..perfect timing
- JustinG - 05-30-2008
My NOS timing was all off, and the mad scientist forgot to change the TOB during the wet/dry/fogger system install.
No but the TOB was an OEM piece, so im assuming when the clutch was installed by the previous owner the TOB and fork werent replaced. The forks are known to do that over time with a heavy clutch like the ACT 2600. So with it never being replaced, and some AutoX abuse, it just decided enough was enough.
- Maengelito - 05-30-2008
Andy Wrote:Holy shit. How does shit like that break? Was it WAY past the service interval or have you been living a 1/4 mile at a time.
Justin's sig Wrote:1999 Eclipse GSX.
- Andy - 05-30-2008
Maengelito Wrote:Andy Wrote:Holy shit. How does shit like that break? Was it WAY past the service interval or have you been living a 1/4 mile at a time.
Justin's sig Wrote:1999 Eclipse GSX.
Haha. Love it. I'm really going to miss the DSM hate