+- Madison Motorsports (https://forum.mmsports.org)
+-- Forum: Technical (https://forum.mmsports.org/forumdisplay.php?fid=4)
+--- Forum: Technical Discussion (https://forum.mmsports.org/forumdisplay.php?fid=11)
+--- Thread: Yet another oil discussion -- Best oil for Me. (/showthread.php?tid=6064)
Yet another oil discussion -- Best oil for Me. - CaptainHenreh - 06-15-2007
I searched, couldn't find anything. At any rate, here's my dillema:
I have a NEW car, and that's probably the biggest investment of cash I've ever made in anything, the only possible exception being my education. So, naturally, I want to take excellent care of it to keep resale value, reliability, and performance as high as possible. And what's the major determinate in engine life and performance? Oil.
So! Here we are at a motor oil discussion. I'm looking for the best, synthetic, 5W-30 oil out there. What do I mean by best? A FULL synthetic, that balances performance with cost, with a tic on the side of performance.
I'll probably be using an OEM filter, as they are inexpensive and really, how wrong can you go with OEM? The OEM oil is (I'm almost certain) 5W-30 Motorcraft Synthetic Blend, which is the same oil I put in Julie's car, except hers I use 5W-20. I've been tempted to switch to her using 5W-30, since I "read on the internet" that 5W-20 isn't a "natural" weight and requires alot of additives to achieve, and offers no benefit over 5W-30. It might be bullshit, I don't know. Another factor determining my engine oil choice is availability. If I can't it in a reasonable amount of time or travel, I'd rather not use it. I want to use the same oil every oil change, so I need the oil to be regularly available.
My break-in oil change (which isn't up for discussion, let's try and keep this on topic, shall we?) has been simple: Filter and Change at 2000 with regular oil, and at 5000 I'll switch to synthetic. SO, I'm about 2500 now, so let's see if we can reach a consensus before my synthetic switch.
Right, so let's begin.
Now, I know the answer to this question is always "MOBIL 1!!!111one", but MOBIL 1 is expensive and there's all these rumblings about them changing their formula and shit. So I'd like to talk about whys and why nots instead of folks just shouting "Mobil 1". I had originally planned mobil 1, but I wanted to throw this up for discussion.
So, the first things that come to my mind are:
Amsoil
Royal Purple
Mobil 1
Valvoline Synpower Full synthetic.
So...opinions? Bullshit? Commentary?
- BLINGMW - 06-15-2007
aren't all the other listings more expensive than mobil 1? I don't know why you say it's expensive, I've found it's one of the cheaper decent synths you can get.
- .RJ - 06-15-2007
If you really want the "best" street use oil, then IMO, Motul 5100 - but its $8-9/qt, so likely thats out.
Most of the M1 5W20 and 5W30 oil blends have an "energy conservation" stamp on them - I think they are thinner than their rated weight and they're spec'ed by most OEM's for fuel economy. For average joe and his honda civic thats fine, but you have t3h boosty.
Do you want something regularly available at any parts store? I assume yes... I'd recommend you go with Castrol Syntec 10W30 - its a full synthetic base unlike the processed stuff in most other synthetic oils. The 10W30 label is red, and its got a "made in germany" label on the back. AFAIK, only autozone carries it - I used to buy mine in manassas. Its green and it smells a little funny. The next best option would be M1 10W40 'euro formula' (not sure why its called that... ).
My $.02
- CaptainHenreh - 06-15-2007
So 10W-30 would be OK if my manual calls for 5W-30?
I know pretty much shit about what those fucking numbers mean and how they effect my engine.
I know my talon called for 10W-30, and I know 10W-30 is the "universal" weight, but what the fuck else does it mean?
- .RJ - 06-15-2007
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.autoeducation.com/autoshop101/oil-change.htm">http://www.autoeducation.com/autoshop101/oil-change.htm</a><!-- m -->
Quote:Oil weight, or viscosity, refers to how thick or thin the oil is. The temperature requirements set for oil by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) is 0 degrees F (low) and 210 degrees F (high).
Oils meeting the SAE's low temperature requirements have a "W" after the viscosity rating (example: 10W), and oils that meet the high ratings have no letter (example SAE 30). An oil is rated for viscosity by heating it to a specified temperature, and then allowing it to flow out of a specifically sized hole. Its viscosity rating is determined by the length of time it takes to flow out of the hole. If it flows quickly, it gets a low rating. If it flows slowly, it gets a high rating.
- Apoc - 06-15-2007
Simplified: The first number indicates the viscosity of the oil at a cold temperature, while the second number indicates the viscosity at operating temperature. A thin oil has a lower number and flows more easily, while thick oils have a higher number and are more resistant to flow.
That means the 5W-30 is a bit thinner at cold temps. Some people are anal about their weight but I've put both in my car.
- .RJ - 06-15-2007
I should also mention that oils now are pretty damn good - so you probably cant go wrong with anything, even cheap-o castrol GTX.
- CaptainHenreh - 06-15-2007
.RJ Wrote:I should also mention that oils now are pretty damn good - so you probably cant go wrong with anything, even cheap-o castrol GTX.
I figured this to be the case, and I'm over-thinking the whole thing, but I do want a full synthetic to minimize coke on my turbo bearings...it's at least gotta last until it's paid for. :-p
- HAULN-SS - 06-15-2007
So, just to jump in on this discussion to clear things up - why does it seem like bigger engines call for stuff liek 10W-40 (read it on the internet) and smaller engines for 5W-30? Is that just something to do with power conversation? I'm assuming thinner oils dont rob as much power, and that counts for more on smaller engines?
- ScottyB - 06-15-2007
CaptainHenreh Wrote:.RJ Wrote:I should also mention that oils now are pretty damn good - so you probably cant go wrong with anything, even cheap-o castrol GTX.
I figured this to be the case, and I'm over-thinking the whole thing, but I do want a full synthetic to minimize coke on my turbo bearings...it's at least gotta last until it's paid for. :-p
my engine is prone to sludge so i've had to do alot of research on oil...i'm nobody to quote but i have learned a few things. anyway, RJ is right on....in fact many dino's today are equivalent to synth's from not very long ago. you'd be hard pressed to make a truly poor choice, as most oils at the bottom of the "scale" are still very good to begin with.
as for brands....
mobil 1 is not the hotness they used to be, IMO. i've heard they are using group 3 stock for some oils now, instead of group 4, which is better. there are better brands for your application, and as a bonus some are cheaper as well.
i will always put amsoil at the top of my list. they are a truly innovative company (read their history on their site) and from personal experience my car ran at a lower oil temp and idled quieter after putting amsoil in after using strictly mobil 1 0-40 for a long time. barring price/availabilty i think next up i would recommend royal purple. i read a friction test that put it at the top of the heap and the results were pretty dramatic (i gotta find this link, the photo is interesting). castrol is a strong brand, and if you can get a hold of the "german" castrol 0-30 it is top notch stuff, actually closer to a 40 weight. havoline has posted some good oil analysis from many people lately, and as a bonus they are a very affordable brand.
a good synthetic will allow you to extend your oil change interval but don't take it too long. on a turbo car i think 5000 miles is a good point to change it at. on an NA car i'd push more towards 8000. coking your bearings is what improper cool down will get you, not oil choice IMO, unless you pick a really heinous weight or totally cheap wally world special.
lastly, the forum on bobistheoilguy.com is gold and use blackstone labs to analyze your oil after a change. its the only real way you can get proper evidence that your choices are correct or not.
- white_2kgt - 06-15-2007
You want the best? Royal Purple, then the Ford Stuff, then Mobile 1, Mobile 1 is the cheapest out of them all and the easiest to get. So, Mobile 1. If you really want to know how long you can go on an oil change get a blackstone report and pay for the extended mileage report. Anything else if just guessing. I hear the castrol stuff is pretty good but I've never used it.
The fact of the matter is you can pour in $.50/qt dyno oil in there and run it 10k miles for probably 100k miles or so and not have a single problem. The wife has a friend and whenever she comes over I MAKE her get an oil change, mazda 626, usually she has 10k or more on the oil and buys the cheapest oil she can. Car's still running. Makes me cringe every time I drain that oil, and I've been doing this for at least 2 years.
- Andy - 06-15-2007
Why not just get any synthetic you want and drive it for a controlled mileage e.g. 5k/10k, dump it and test it. I use whatever Synthetic is on sale for the daily which tested out fine after 10K miles. I used whatever brand name ÔÇ£high mileageÔÇØ oil is on sale. IÔÇÖve tested it after 2 track weekends twice and both times, the different brand oils came back with a clean bill of health. I wouldnÔÇÖt even bother with high mileage oil if not for the wicked smoky startup that my leaky valve seals cause which the HM oil seems to help with. In summation, whatever oil you get, have it tested to ensure that it works well for your type of driving and your particular car.
- white_2kgt - 06-15-2007
HAULN-SS Wrote:So, just to jump in on this discussion to clear things up - why does it seem like bigger engines call for stuff liek 10W-40 (read it on the internet) and smaller engines for 5W-30? Is that just something to do with power conversation? I'm assuming thinner oils dont rob as much power, and that counts for more on smaller engines?
Engine tolerances as well. Bigger engines usually have larger ones so they like a heavy weight oil. Sometimes if you get a high mileage engine where the gaps have opened up a bit and it's burning oil you can run a straight heavy weight oil like 40 weight and it will stop burning oil since it's so thick. I've never owned an engine as loose as a DC hooker so I've never ran straight weight heavy oil. Also newer cars are calling for light weight oils for emissions reason. I refuse to run like a 5w in anything I own, so it's usually a 10-30w.
- ScottyB - 06-15-2007
white_2kgt Wrote:Ford Stuff
this man speaks the truth....motorcraft is very good. their tranny fluid (i think some guys call it the "honey") is amazing.
- white_2kgt - 06-15-2007
ScottyB Wrote:i will always put amsoil at the top of my list. they are a truly innovative company (read their history on their site) and from personal experience my car ran at a lower oil temp and idled quieter after putting amsoil in after using strictly mobil 1 0-40 for a long time.
Amsoil, ha, I use that stuff too. In my lift and floor jack, that's about it (trans oil, not engine oil). I just don't like their product.
- white_2kgt - 06-15-2007
ScottyB Wrote:white_2kgt Wrote:Ford Stuff
this man speaks the truth....motorcraft is very good. their tranny fluid (i think some guys call it the "honey") is amazing.
Yep, and somehow the only damn trans fluid on the market that can prevent the F-series trans/xfer case from blowing the fuck up.
- .RJ - 06-15-2007
white_2kgt Wrote:I just don't like their product.
I just dont like their marketing. It could be the best stuff ever, I dont know... but everyone I know that sells for them is freebasing the
![[Image: kool.gif]](http://rr-ax.com/bbs/images/emoticons/kool.gif)
in a big way.
- CaptainHenreh - 06-15-2007
ScottyB Wrote:white_2kgt Wrote:Ford Stuff
this man speaks the truth....motorcraft is very good. their tranny fluid (i think some guys call it the "honey") is amazing.
All Motorcraft motor oil is a "synthetic blend"?
Honestly, this would be probably my best option, if I weren't such a homo for a full synthetic. I'd move the Focus up to 5W-30 and just buy it by the pallet.
- Andy - 06-15-2007
.RJ Wrote:white_2kgt Wrote:I just don't like their product.
I just dont like their marketing. It could be the best stuff ever, I dont know... but everyone I know that sells for them is freebasing the
Their gearbox oil sucks a big donkey cock.
- .RJ - 06-15-2007
Andy Wrote:Their gearbox oil sucks a big donkey cock.
Motul Gear oil FTW!