my 1J swap.. NO POWER.. WTF?? give your input

The following warnings occurred:

Warning [2] Undefined property: MyLanguage::$archive_pages - Line: 2 - File: printthread.php(287) : eval()'d code PHP 8.2.28 (Linux)

File	Line	Function
/inc/class_error.php	153	errorHandler->error
/printthread.php(287) : eval()'d code	2	errorHandler->error_callback
/printthread.php	287	eval
/printthread.php	117	printthread_multipage

my 1J swap.. NO POWER.. WTF?? give your input - Printable Version

+- Madison Motorsports (https://forum.mmsports.org)
+-- Forum: Technical (https://forum.mmsports.org/forumdisplay.php?fid=4)
+--- Forum: Technical Discussion (https://forum.mmsports.org/forumdisplay.php?fid=11)
+--- Thread: my 1J swap.. NO POWER.. WTF?? give your input (/showthread.php?tid=5925)

Pages: 1 2 3

my 1J swap.. NO POWER.. WTF?? give your input - BLAIR - 05-09-2007

Well here is my issue

I did the 1J swap in my 92 sc300 about a month ago. Swap went smooth and I was able to start the car and let it idle. I did not drive the car so I assumed everything went perfect

This week I was able to get home and finish it all up. I went to drive it yesterday and the car is making No power. Feels like about 50 hp at max. The car starts right up, idles smotth, revs nice, but when i drive it Nothing. The boost gauge reads nice vacume and when I rev it sitting still it jumps up to zero like it should. Then when I drive it the boost will jump up to zero and as i floor it, it will actually slowly dip back into vacume like a NA car does with a boost gauge.

BAD TURBOS (locked up)???

Also when I did the swap i didn the timing belt. tensioner, waterpump etc etc. Could this be a timing issue??

The car is so slow even if the turbos werent moving I would think it would have more power than it has now.

What do you guys think I should look at? What steps should i be taking next?

Thanks a lot
BLAIR

just cause i know you all want a BLINGGGGG pic haha

- PDenbigh - 05-09-2007

Do the exhaust manifolds get red hot or anything? If so, it's most likely a timing issue. If not, I'll have to think on it :-).

- D_Eclipse9916 - 05-09-2007

Is it me, or am I just dumb? Do you have a MAF and is it connected? I couldnt see in the picture but it didnt look like you had any type and I dont think you have AEM EMS, I was sure the 2jz had a MAF instead of MAP. Check timing, and hell boost leaks. Ive got a boost leak tester, but im sure you already have one.

I know when I had a really bad boost leak, it was worse than the car would be NA, as it threw off the ECU so far of. Other than that the usual, knock sensor pulling timing, possibly messed up ECU harness?

- BLAIR - 05-09-2007

PDenbigh Wrote:Do the exhaust manifolds get red hot or anything? If so, it's most likely a timing issue. If not, I'll have to think on it :-).

they are not.. I will double check that though ( thanks )

- BLAIR - 05-09-2007

D_Eclipse9916 Wrote:Is it me, or am I just dumb? Do you have a MAF and is it connected? I couldnt see in the picture but it didnt look like you had any type and I dont think you have AEM EMS, I was sure the 2jz had a MAF instead of MAP. Check timing, and hell boost leaks. Ive got a boost leak tester, but im sure you already have one.

I know when I had a really bad boost leak, it was worse than the car would be NA, as it threw off the ECU so far of. Other than that the usual, knock sensor pulling timing, possibly messed up ECU harness?

its a MAP sensor car (good old JDM motors) havent preasure tested the turbo system yet but im sure the car would still make boost even with majow boost leaks. this thing is slower than that

- KPWSerpiente - 05-09-2007

Must not be spooling. Wastegate open?

-T

- BLAIR - 05-09-2007

wastegates move freely.. so i dont think they are stuck open

- Jeff - 05-09-2007

WG arms attached? cat/exhaust clogged? (silly me!) BOV sticking open? Bad fuel filter or shitty pump?

- ScottyB - 05-10-2007

TurboOmni08 Wrote:WG arms attached? cat/exhaust clogged? (silly me!) BOV sticking open? Bad fuel filter or shitty pump?

i was thinking all of these things as well. definitely pressurize the system first to find any leaks.

it seems to me like if even the wastegates were a problem, or the cat was clogged you'd still spool up a little.

- CaptainHenreh - 05-10-2007

BLAIR Wrote:wastegates move freely.. so i dont think they are stuck open

How freely do your wastegates move? They should be really hard to move. I'd check the wastegate with a vacuum pump.

- ScottyB - 05-10-2007

CaptainHenreh Wrote:How freely do your wastegates move? They should be really hard to move. I'd check the wastegate with a vacuum pump.

good call Rex. Blair, are actuator rebuild kits expensive for you turbos? it may be cheaper to just replace them if the diaphrams are toast.

- Jeff - 05-10-2007

CaptainHenreh Wrote:
BLAIR Wrote:wastegates move freely.. so i dont think they are stuck open

How freely do your wastegates move? They should be really hard to move. I'd check the wastegate with a vacuum pump.

I don't think a pump will act on them. They react to pressure. Best way I found to test them was to remove them from the car and pull the arm out from the can then put your finger over the nipple. It should trap the air inside if the actuator is good and when you let go of the arm it should stay out until you remove your finger....then it will slam back in when the air rushes out.

- CaptainHenreh - 05-10-2007

TurboOmni08 Wrote:
CaptainHenreh Wrote:
BLAIR Wrote:wastegates move freely.. so i dont think they are stuck open

How freely do your wastegates move? They should be really hard to move. I'd check the wastegate with a vacuum pump.

I don't think a pump will act on them. They react to pressure. Best way I found to test them was to remove them from the car and pull the arm out from the can then put your finger over the nipple. It should trap the air inside if the actuator is good and when you let go of the arm it should stay out until you remove your finger....then it will slam back in when the air rushes out.

You use the pump to determine if the bladders are bad. If it holds a vacuum, the bladder is good.

- Jeff - 05-10-2007

I suppose that would work...but I could never get mine to show anything on the gauge when I did it that way. So I pulled them off and checked them as above...know 100% they work and they have a full range of motion.

- CaptainHenreh - 05-10-2007

TurboOmni08 Wrote:I suppose that would work...but I could never get mine to show anything on the gauge when I did it that way. So I pulled them off and checked them as above...know 100% they work and they have a full range of motion.

You forget what a 1JZ engine bay looks like. Removing the wastegates ain't the easiest thing to do. Cooler to check the easy shit first, then go for the hard shit.

Point is, if the wastegates are moving very easy, like, flopping around, or you can easily move it with one hand...they're broken. I had to use vice grips and two hands to move my old (93) DSM's wastegate. (long story).

- Jeff - 05-10-2007

CaptainHenreh Wrote:
TurboOmni08 Wrote:I suppose that would work...but I could never get mine to show anything on the gauge when I did it that way. So I pulled them off and checked them as above...know 100% they work and they have a full range of motion.

You forget what a 1JZ engine bay looks like. Removing the wastegates ain't the easiest thing to do. Cooler to check the easy shit first, then go for the hard shit.

Point is, if the wastegates are moving very easy, like, flopping around, or you can easily move it with one hand...they're broken. I had to use vice grips and two hands to move my old (93) DSM's wastegate. (long story).

Point taken. It takes a real man to depress a TD W/G especially if it is a "large can." Also, bear in mind that a TD turbo is hidden in the back...so I know how it is to no be able to get to your ish. Every time I have tested one it was already off the car, didn't take that into account this time.

- JustinG - 05-11-2007

Im almost positive that your motor just refuses to run with those two tiny turbos on it, because it is embarrassed by them. It seems as though the only solution is to put a T66 on it and call it a day, make your motor happy and just do it.

- BLAIR - 05-16-2007

along with checking some other things i wanted to make sure the throttle was opening fully. I disconnected the intercooler pipe that connects to the intake manifold. I decided to drive it with it totally disconnected so the motor would take air right from the intake manifold. the car went from feeling like 50 hp to 150hp. I take it, its fair to assume those turbos are toast if the car feels much faster with the intercooler not connected at all.

BTW.. gotta love map sensors that allow me to do that

- ScottyB - 05-16-2007

can you confirm that your turbos don't spin freely? no coolant or oil being consumed, or any smoke? can you hear the turbos spool up *at all*? are they BB or journal bearing turbos?

seems to me there is an obstruction somewhere, because it sounds like your turbos are OK and even if your wastegate is f'd you'll still get about 4 or 5 psi (guessing here) from the preload of your wastegate spring.

- Jeff - 05-16-2007

Yeah Blair...MAP sensors are a beautiful thing. I've driven the van for a week with no boost and it just felt like a reqular old 4-banger minivan.

ok, so tell us what you have ruled out. We know there is no boost leak? We know the wategates are ok? Lets start with an update on that stuff.