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+--- Thread: control rod on 325is replacement *updated* (/showthread.php?tid=2402)
control rod on 325is replacement *updated* - Myuki - 06-17-2005
my friend is currently repairing his BMW 325is. His control rod on his lef trear is slightly bent and that's what he is on now. I'm gonna try to get a few pics up and ask for assistance if we get stuck. Probably gonna take place early next week. Any advice before this begins?
also, what is common maintenace that should be done on a 150k 325is?
- PDenbigh - 06-17-2005
My suggestions are:
1. Use a "Pickle Fork," and,
2. Unscrew the nut on the balljoint until it is flush with the top of the bolt. Then, using a hammer (a sledge hammer makes it much easier) tap it out to get it started.
I would also suggest a healthy application of PB blaster or similar penetrant.
Sean and I did this on his and they were tough to get out. When you install the new one, use some antisieze and it will make "next time" a bit easier.
- white_2kgt - 06-17-2005
I'd use a ball join press (<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.classicperform.com/product-pages/fullsize/Ball-Joint-Press.htm">http://www.classicperform.com/product-p ... -Press.htm</a><!-- m -->) if you can get your hands on one. The pickle fork will destroy the boot, not that it matters probably, but it will make a mess and be a little tougher.
--chad
- PDenbigh - 06-17-2005
Bah, who needs high faluatin' tools. If its bent, he's replacing it, and thus destroying the boot doesn't matter. If you have the ball joint press, naturally that's the way to go. Since he had another post on "what basic tools should I own" I figured the press was out of the question ;-).
However, Autozone might rent them!
- .RJ - 06-17-2005
^ I'm with pete
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=36861">http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/D ... mber=36861</a><!-- m -->
Autozone has them for $8. Loosen the nut but dont take it off (so the balljoint stud isnt trashed), get that bad muthafucker on there and pop it loose. One of the best tools I've ever bought
Or you can just use a 4 lb sledge and piss off your neighbors.
Re: control rod on 325is and other maintenance - BLINGMW - 06-17-2005
Myuki Wrote:control rod on his lef trear
control rod? Lef trear? I'm so confused!
hock: Are you sure you're working on a BMW and not a nuclear reactor? :wink: sorry
uh, this an E30 or E36? There's probably some bushings and such I'd do while I was at it in either case.
- PDenbigh - 06-17-2005
^ Channing, ha, what do YOU know about BMW's? ;-).
- white_2kgt - 06-17-2005
PDenbigh Wrote:Bah, who needs high faluatin' tools. If its bent, he's replacing it, and thus destroying the boot doesn't matter. If you have the ball joint press, naturally that's the way to go. Since he had another post on "what basic tools should I own" I figured the press was out of the question ;-).
However, Autozone might rent them!
well, I couldn't get mine out with a pickle fork, thew a ball joint press on it and hit it w/ the impact and it popped right out and my car's only 5 years old.
--chad
- Myuki - 07-07-2005
slight update. My friend says he doesn't want to start working on it til he knows exactly what he should do. Is there a place he can get a walkthrough, with pics if possible, for the left rear control rod replacement. I looked at it and it looks fine compared to the other one, but he said the BMW master tech said it was bent, so okay then. He's found numerous front control rod replacement walkthroughs, but none for the rear.
- Nick325is - 07-11-2005
Replacing the trailing arm consists off removing the shock and spring, removing the half shaft, disconnecting the brake lines and removing trailing arm bushing.
My suggestion is to go get a bentley manual. If you can't get one i can scan the write up from mine.
NIck
- Myuki - 07-11-2005
Nick325is Wrote:Replacing the trailing arm consists off removing the shock and spring, removing the half shaft, disconnecting the brake lines and removing trailing arm bushing.if you could scan that and send it this way, that'd be great, thanks
My suggestion is to go get a bentley manual. If you can't get one i can scan the write up from mine.
NIck
- Beej - 07-11-2005
What year is the car? E30's and E36's have completely different rear ends.
Are you sure it's not a control arm or a tie rod? Control rod is a wierd term.
- Myuki - 07-11-2005
Bill 84 318i Wrote:What year is the car? E30's and E36's have completely different rear ends.did i say control rod, i meant control arm, sorry :?
Are you sure it's not a control arm or a tie rod? Control rod is a wierd term.
and it's a e36
- BLINGMW - 07-12-2005
ok! E36! Now we're getting somewhere. And just to make sure, you're talking about one of the 2 control arms on each side, they run parallel to the axle shafts? And I assume you're talking about the lower one, (that's the flimsy one that gets bent if you run over something or some jackass hooks up a towtruck there) not the upper that is integrated with the lower spring mount, right? In that case, it's just bolted in, with small bushings on each side. Dropping it out alone, IIRC, is not a very complicated task assuming rust hasn't frozen the camber adjuster on the outside or the bolt on the inside. No pickle fork, no balljoints, the previous posters should be considered insane and are not to be trusted. :wink: Nothing else needs to be removed.
Here's a diagram:
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BF31&mospid=47430&btnr=33_1004&hg=33&fg=30">http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=33&fg=30</a><!-- m -->
#7 is what we're talking about, yes? I would be prepared to replace bolts #14 and #10, and if the replacement arm doesnt have the bushings pressed in, you'll need that done at a shop unless you have a press.
....now here comes the part where you tell me you meant the trailing arm.... :?: :!:
- melchior - 07-12-2005
hi, i'm the guy with the 325is.
yes, it seems easy but the differential mount thingy is in the way of one of the bolts.
i haven't really looked at it a lot or tried anything, but i'm just looking for something that will guide me when I do it so I know i'll have a working car the next day.
oh, and btw for you peoples who don't know bmw's very well:
1992-early 1999 = E36's, before 1992 (with a few exceptions) most 3 series released in the USA were E30's. E46's started mid-1999
- Mike - 07-12-2005
melchior Wrote:oh, and btw for you peoples who don't know bmw's very well:
1992-early 1999 = E36's, before 1992 (with a few exceptions) most 3 series released in the USA were E30's. E46's started mid-1999
you don't need to know bmws very well to know that
most people here know chassis code for various makes and models.