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+--- Thread: My Car! 1988 Toyota Supra Turbo Targa 5-speed (/showthread.php?tid=6361)
- .RJ - 05-07-2008
Are the strut tops in some sort of awful, unadjustable place? TEMS is cool in an 80's digital dash kinda way.... but I'd rather adjust them myself for a better damper.
I'm sure something could be engineered anyways - they're just a little motor that turns the adjuster.
- Andy - 05-07-2008
Consider the Konis, Goodspeed. They actually work when you adjust them.
I have smoky startup too. I had it the first day I bought it and after 3-4K of pure track time + 26K of street time, it's still fine. Just run high mileage valvoline or castrol. It works great and has really minimized the james bond smokescreen effect.
- Dave - 05-07-2008
I'll 2nd Rex's compliment to the retards not using spring compressors. The destructive force of those springs releasing unexpectedly is more than you would expect. I can understand the redneck solution if you're on the side of the road or something, but if you are planning on doing it, just buy/rent a set...
As for questions and comments on the plans:
-I think the valve stem seals are something you can definitely put off. That's a lot of work to fix something that isn't necessarily broken
-I personally would still get a fuel tuner. Yeah, it probably isn't necessary, but if you run lean and melt a piston, you'll wish you had spent that $100 bucks...
-I'll second the thought of the Konis. I can understand the appeal to TEMS, that was one of the things you really wanted on your MK3, but I bet there are people out there who have devised a way to put Konis on and keep in the in-car adjustability that you're looking for. Knowing the Mk3 crowd, it's probably pretty cheap too :-p
-I don't think I'd waste my time making my current exhaust pretty if you intend to put on Magnaflow tips later on. Maybe I'm picturing the wrong parts or timeline...
-your stock lines should be fine. I make it a habit of replacing rubber fuel lines that I remove while I'm in the middle of a job (b/c I keep a stockpile of hose) b/c I don't want to button it back up and have a leak from reusing an old hose. Quality stainless braid is an unnecessary expense for your needs.
-no idea what the injector clip is. I'm sure there's a picture somewhere on one of the supra forums...
Otherwise, sounds like a great plan and you should have plenty of power to throw that land barge around ;-)
- ViPER1313 - 05-07-2008
I'm assuming the injector "clip" is the connecting plug for the injector coming from the wiring harness, considering you have to splice / solder it on.
- Maengelito - 05-07-2008
correct me if I'm wrong, but arent valve stems on your wheels to let air in your tires? I know that you're talking about the valves on the head, but yeah, dont worry about smoking a little bit. The car is close to 20 yrs old after all.
An injector clip from how you describe it is probably the wiring harness.
Spring compressors - yeah, what Rex said, you can rent them at any auto parts place for like $50 and then get all of it back when you're done, so its essentially free.
I dont think you'll need to get SS braided fuel lines, you'll be fine with the existing lines. I'm not sure where the fuel filter is located on your particular car, but if you're doing a fuel system upgrade, why not? The part shouldnt cost too much.
As for the S-AFC, if you're playing with upping boost and bigger injectors, it's probably a good idea to change whatever is regulating the amount of fuel into the engine with the increased volume of air. I'm not sure on the specifics of your car, but basic math tells me this:
the increase of 440cc to 550cc injectors is indeed a 25% increase
I don't know the dimensions of your MAF, but a 25% larger internal diameter is not a 25% increase in volume. If it is indeed 25% more volume, then yes, that much more air would be going into the motor. If the inside diameter is 25% bigger, than you'd have roughly double (200%) the air going in.
If the toyota tuner was saying they match, then he probably meant volume rather than inside diameter, but regardless, it wouldnt hurt to get an S-AFC.
- ScottyB - 05-07-2008
i would also wait on the valve stem seals. might as well rebuild other parts of the head if you're going to tear the whole thing apart. a little smoke on startup is nothing to fret about.
what's your budget for tires?
- D_Eclipse9916 - 05-07-2008
hahahahh everybody is saying what ive been yelling at you for months. Get the Konis. Anyways rant over.
BTW Goodspeed.....I have spring compressors, go ahead...walk the 2 feet into my room.....SHAZAAM!! Spring Compressors. You can also replace the valve stem seals without pulling the head, might be worth looking into if you have a lot of time to have the car down, just in case you run into something.
Most cars do not need upgraded fuel lines for a while. Typically the factory actually has large enough lines for what your thinking.
The clips are exactly what you are thinking, unless you are also needing a resistor box. If not, its just a change of style of plug between injectors.
Why S-AFC? I thought you were looking at MAFT Pro. S-AFC is a shitty hack that really doesnt give you much to work with other than correction factors. But if your looking for a quick easy way thats cheap, thats fine. It "works", I picked up over 10 wheel horsepower and smoothed the powerband on a fucking saturn, I cant imagine what it would do for yours. Ive actually got a friend with a black s-afc sitting in his basement if your looking for one.
- Goodspeed - 05-07-2008
TurboOmni08 Wrote:Goodspeed, just come down to the dealership and we will put the suspension on there. We obviously have all the tools needed to do it quickly and safely. You and I could have it done in a day easy.
Ballin! In that case I'll be coming up to Hoodstock at some point, thanks for the offer
WRXtranceformed Wrote:I'd definitely consider some kind of tune if you're swapping injectors / maf sensors... if a 'Yota engineer says it's fine tuneless then I guess it's fine, but I can't imagine a car would run right when it's tuned from teh factory with a certain maf sensor and certain injectors and then you switch both of them out.
Apparently, the ECU (TCCS) can adapt straight-up to this mod. Everything I know about the MAF/injector rewire is from this tech article:
http://rob.carlile.home.mchsi.com/lexus/lexus1.htm
"In researching all this, I came across an interesting alternative. Reg Riemer, president of SONIC, the Canadian Supra club, and tuner extraordinaire for the SONIC One-Lap Mk IV developed a system to replace the stock air metering system with a larger unit from a Lexus V-8. It would use larger injectors to balance the larger air flow meter (AFM) and yet use the stock TCCS computer. This would take advantage of the great adaptability of the system and its ability to "learn" the fuel map by experience, and was, I felt an elegantly simple solution to the whole engineering exercise."
Andy Wrote:Consider the Konis, Goodspeed. They actually work when you adjust them.
I have smoky startup too. I had it the first day I bought it and after 3-4K of pure track time + 26K of street time, it's still fine. Just run high mileage valvoline or castrol. It works great and has really minimized the james bond smokescreen effect.
.RJ Wrote:Are the strut tops in some sort of awful, unadjustable place? TEMS is cool in an 80's digital dash kinda way.... but I'd rather adjust them myself for a better damper.
Interesting, I've looked at the high-mileage stuff but never gave it a second thought. Next oil change I'll purchase some of that stuff and see if it works.
The Koni vs. Tokico debate...I'm leaning towards the Tokico's/Eibachs as it has been proven to work with the stock TEMS and provides a comfortable ride. In all honesty I just want to replace the 20 y/o dampers with new units of some sort; not looking for adjustability or performance and the price is nice as well. I will see if Konis can be adapted however; I remember looking into it and I don't think they are as the tops/adjustment screws are different. Some tinkering would probably change that.
Dave Wrote:-I think the valve stem seals are something you can definitely put off. That's a lot of work to fix something that isn't necessarily broken
......Knowing the Mk3 crowd, it's probably pretty cheap too
-I don't think I'd waste my time making my current exhaust pretty if you intend to put on Magnaflow tips later on. Maybe I'm picturing the wrong parts or timeline...
True that, the seals can wait. There is some insane talk on the MK3 boards about lifting the valve cover and using compressed air or a rope to hold the valves in place and doing some trickery with the seals...no idea how it is done but it sounds crazy.
About the exhaust...the plan is to coat it flat black, cut off the ~2.5" ugly muffler outlets and have a shop weld on some nice, shiny double-wall 3" Magnaflow tips. If you look at the Raptor Racing exhaust on SM, they do the exact same thing and package it as their cat-back unit.
Maengelito Wrote:correct me if I'm wrong, but arent valve stems on your wheels to let air in your tires?
I don't know the dimensions of your MAF, but a 25% larger internal diameter is not a 25% increase in volume.
They are the valve-stem oil seals, in between the valve spring-seat and valve spring in the head. They go bad, oil flowing through the head drips down onto the top of the valve head and gets dumped into the combustion process, see here for diagram
Sorry about the confusion, I meant they match in flow rates, 25% more air and fuel.
ScottyB Wrote:what's your budget for tires?
We'll see, I'm trying not to spend all my money on this project and less expensive tires like Fusion ZRI's have gotten great reviews for the price; more expensive BFG's and the like may be an option however.
D_Eclipse9916 Wrote:Why S-AFC? I thought you were looking at MAFT Pro. S-AFC is a shitty hack that really doesnt give you much to work with other than correction factors. But if your looking for a quick easy way thats cheap, thats fine.
Quick, easy, cheap....thats what I might be looking for. I might pay the extra amount for the MAFT Pro as I could then use speed density and get rid of the MAF all together; huge gains can be had by going this route. After pricing out all this it would strain my budget however to get a MAFT Pro kit, and if the debate is between a regular MAFT and the S-AFC/Reimer mod I'll go the latter. I think it would be a good starting point; if I feel its not working sufficiently I can always sell it and step up to the MAFT Pro should I wish.
- WRXtranceformed - 05-07-2008
All I'm saying is that if you're trying to save money, I personally wouldn't do it on the fuel system / tuning system. Do what you want though, it's your poopra
- .RJ - 05-07-2008
Goodspeed Wrote:There is some insane talk on the MK3 boards about lifting the valve cover and using compressed air or a rope to hold the valves in place and doing some trickery with the seals...no idea how it is done but it sounds crazy.
Thats how its usually done. Compressed air to keep pressure on the valves, remove valve springs and replace the seals. Requires some investment in tools and some patience - again, unless your car looks like spy hunter, not worth the $$ or time to do this.
- ViPER1313 - 05-07-2008
+1 on not doing the valve stem seals - PITA to do, last time I saw your car it wasn't burning enough oil that I would even begin to worry about it.
Castrol GTX High Mileage is great stuff - burns off & leaks MUCH more slowly than synthetic oils. Supposedly has a much higher content of cleaners in it as well. The black SHO would roll through a quart of Mobile1 in 200 miles out the front main seal - GTX HM would bring it up into the 800-1k mile range.
- Goodspeed - 11-22-2008
Wow, nothing since May. I remembered I had this thread so I figured I'd do an update for some opinions.
Over the summer, the fuel pump went out, so in went a Walbro 255lph and I wired in a 12V dedicated power source from the battery to the rear, finished on July 15th at 136,125 miles.
At the time I bought the fuel pump I ordered an Aeromotive AFPR with stainless lines as a kit, and finally got it on the car at 136,999 miles sometime in late October, the 22nd I believe. Prior to this, the car ran pretty rough...low idle, popping, hesitating. When the AFPR went on, we found a little vacuum hose that was left open to the atmosphere; it had come off the VSV valve (IIRC) that was being used as the vacuum reference for the stock FPR (and tapped for the boost gauge). Ah, hum. No idea what, if any, harm that caused, but I zip-tied it back on and it has stayed ever since with the Aeromotive. Hitting boost would pop it off; it had no barb or clamp or anything.
Now, I think the head gasket is on its way out. The temp gauge stays just below the middle (needs new thermostat probably), but today on the on-ramp I got in boost (13-14lbs.) in third through fourth and could smell coolant (!). I limped it to Merchants, where I was going for an alignment, unscrewed the oil cap and saw a murky white/brown frappucino coating at the top of the cap.
Merchants couldn't do anything because they discovered a bad tie-rod (d'oh) so I'll hopefully get that remedied ASAP, but when I got back home I checked the cap again and didn't see the frappucino again.
I'll be up in NoVA for the week starting this evening (Thanksgiving break) and DJ, the mad scientist, and I will hopefully do a compression check and remedy the tie-rod. I also will be on the lookout for new front tires in the area as well.
Fin.
- balactm - 11-22-2008
Goodspeed Wrote:Now, I think the head gasket is on its way out. The temp gauge stays just below the middle (needs new thermostat probably), but today on the on-ramp I got in boost (13-14lbs.) in third through fourth and could smell coolant (!). I limped it to Merchants, where I was going for an alignment, unscrewed the oil cap and saw a murky white/brown frappucino coating at the top of the cap.
Merchants couldn't do anything because they discovered a bad tie-rod (d'oh) so I'll hopefully get that remedied ASAP, but when I got back home I checked the cap again and didn't see the frappucino again.
that sucks man. I'm sorry to hear that.
Goodspeed Wrote:Fin.
nice touch.
- CaptainHenreh - 11-22-2008
A MKIII with a blown headgasket? What are the chances!
- ViPER1313 - 11-23-2008
You are as bad as Scotty. Lots of cars have brown/white oil gum around the oil cap - condensation+oil collects on the cap. Go do a leak-down test if you are scared. Smelling coolant does not mean you have a blown HG, it usually means you are leaking coolant. White smoke out the exhaust, milkshake oil (on the dipstick) and overheating, then I will believe it's the head gasket.
Just go drive the fucker and quit finding non-existent issues with the car.
- ScottyB - 11-23-2008
ViPER1313 Wrote:You are as bad as Scotty.
hey! i've been much calmer lately :evil:
- Feersty - 11-23-2008
Good luck with the remedies Goodspeed. What are your bhp numbers?
- Goodspeed - 11-23-2008
I don't think the head gasket is blown. I haven't seen any more ill signs under the cap/in the filler hole or in the coolant reservoir. There is a bit of oil under the radiator cap, but nothing that looks too major.
Feersty, the car has ~330hp and 360tq at the flywheel.
- Feersty - 11-23-2008
Damn, those numbers are impressive.
- Goodspeed - 04-25-2009
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