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Project XJ - Printable Version +- Madison Motorsports (https://forum.mmsports.org) +-- Forum: Technical (https://forum.mmsports.org/forumdisplay.php?fid=4) +--- Forum: Member's Projects (https://forum.mmsports.org/forumdisplay.php?fid=12) +--- Thread: Project XJ (/showthread.php?tid=8385) |
Re: Project XJ - JustinG - 10-12-2009 paint em pink Re: Project XJ - Jeff - 10-15-2009 Ordered the parts for my homebrew swaybar disconnects. I placed the order from McMaster Carr at 4:30 yesterday evening...they were on my desk at 10am. WOW. ![]() I also found a Python remote start system laying around in my basement. So I hope to get that installed sometime soon. Its been coooooollllllddddd around here. Re: Project XJ - Jeff - 10-20-2009 So latest developments and mini-projects!!! My boy Zach was helping another member of NOVAJeepers install a lift kit on his 07 JK Rubicon. He asked the guy what he was going to do with his shocks. Basically I upgraded from the JK-s package shocks to the JK Rubicon setup. A mono-tube gas shock...and they are already painted red! Downside is they are higher mileage..but OEM shocks are designed for long life ant this jeep was never wheeled. Mini projects Driver's window switch (I've installed two different ones now for this same problem) has a known issue with the window lock switch. All my other windows are always locked. Well I installed a fused link behind the door panel to eliminate this feature. Now I have no window lock but at least all my other switches work. I installed a front skid from an 87 Cherokee. I had to install expansion nuts in the radiator support. Pretty easy to get some extra frame reinforcement as well as protection for my steering linkage. Installed Python 871xp remote start, alarm, keyless. With these cold mornings its been really nice. Re: Project XJ - Jeff - 10-24-2009 Had a good junkyard trip. Got a spare steel wheel for my fullsize spare tire. Plan to paint it black to keep the rust away. I figured there was no reason to buy another aluminum wheel because if I bust one of these I will likely change styles...most likely to a steel wheel anyway. ![]() Most importantly I got a skid plate. Its from a 98 Grand Cherokee (ZJ) with the uplander package. I've been told 50 different things about what I will need to modify to make it work. No one has a solid write-up. So I plan to do a good write-up on it as I do it. Also pictured are the Rubicon stocks. I will finish my shock conversion write up with them here as well. The first steps will be the same as those on the black set of shocks. ![]() The other thing I needed was a door check. The bar that keeps the door from opening too far. It also has a stop to keep the door open. I was leaning on it the other week and busted it... ![]() ![]() All in all a good trip. At least the rain stayed away. I also got a new clock for Anne's car...it quit on her. Re: Project XJ - .RJ - 10-24-2009 Jeff Wrote:Ordered the parts for my homebrew swaybar disconnects. I placed the order from McMaster Carr at 4:30 yesterday evening...they were on my desk at 10am. WOW. That place fucking rocks. Re: Project XJ - Jeff - 10-24-2009 .RJ Wrote:Jeff Wrote:Ordered the parts for my homebrew swaybar disconnects. I placed the order from McMaster Carr at 4:30 yesterday evening...they were on my desk at 10am. WOW. I have purchased from them many times. They are pretty badass. I used parts form McMaster for my manual boost controllers I built awhile back. They have quality products. The catalog can keep a gearhead busy for hours. <!-- w --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.mcmaster.com">www.mcmaster.com</a><!-- w --> Re: Project XJ - Jeff - 10-26-2009 Well this weekend was a good one for getting Jeep stuff done! I am almost ready to do the lift. I only need a few more small pieces and we will be good. Im so ready to hit the trails before all the pretty leaves fall. Im doing write ups for a few Jeep forums, I figured I would post them here for your enjoyment. ZJ Fuel Tank Skid to 97+ XJ Before you begin... ![]() ![]() Tank skid should cost about $20-50 at your local yard. Look for ZJs with tow hooks, these usually have the skid. The bolts from the factory are 18mm. Take a large breaker bar or a cordless impact with you. Some sort of cutting tool might be useful if the bolts begin to turn on you. Lucky for me there were many to choose from at my yard, I didnt have a cutting tool and on the first one the captive nut failed and began to turn inside the frame. Once you get it home the first step is to grind down most of the rust and hit it with rust preventative paint. ![]() Once it is prepped you need to remove your trailer hitch if you have one. This makes the job easy because you can use it as a template for the skid. If not you need to get nut strips from the dealer or a junk yard XJ. The nut strips go in the frame and receive the bolts for the hitch and skid. Most 97+ XJs will have at least one on the right side to hold up the exhaust hanger. This one will be rusted and you might need to chase the threads. If you don't have a hitch (now is the time to get one) simply install the strips and make yourself some cardboard templates off your frame. The nuts holding up the hitch will be 18mm. Here is a shot of the exhaust hanger, make sure it goes back in facing correctly, you will need to take these out with a wrench. ![]() Also notice this heat shield. Unless you got the one off the ZJ you will need to re-use this. DO NOT LEAVE THIS OUT. Just leave it in place and put the skid in over top of it. It will bend a little on the bottom where the skid hits it but it will be ok. Doing it this way is easier then crawling way up under the ZJ to take out the 10mm bolts. ![]() Ok, now you have the hitch down, compare them with the holes on the skid. ![]() ![]() ![]() As you can see the holes are very different. You need to drill or line up almost every hole on the hitch with the skid to make it fit correctly. The only two you dont have to cut are the two on the outer edge of the right side toward the front of the vehicle. You will notice the same holes on the opposite side coincide with the bolts that hold the fuel filler neck shield on, they allow clearance for the bolt heads. As you might imagine if you XJ is RHD then this will be reversedhence the reason for the holes being predrilled on both sides of the hitch. ![]() I used a step drill bit and a carbide cutting bit to enlarge the existing holes and create the new ones. ![]() Simply place the hitch over the skid, mark the holes with a marker, then cut them out slightly larger than your marked points. Always make them larger than needed if you have a hitchit makes it easier to get the bolts started. Now if you do not have a hitch your holes need to be smaller and more precise, but who the heck needs a skid if they dont have a hitch? ![]() ![]() ![]() Notice the two holes on the outside edge, these are the two for the fuel neck shield bolts. ![]() Once you get all the holes cut out its time to test fit. This is best done with two people or a jack. Once you get it fitted correctly and all the hole line up, toss up the hitch and bolt it all in. ![]() ![]() Notice here the heat shield mentioned earlier. ![]() I had a slight problem come up with the exhaust hitting the skid. Just take the exhaust loose behind the muffler and turn it out a bit. Once everything is in and adjusted this is what you will havenow GO HIT THE TRAIL! ![]() ![]()
Re: Project XJ - Goodspeed - 10-26-2009 If MacGyver was in MM, this is what he would drive. Re: Project XJ - CaptainHenreh - 10-26-2009 Goodspeed Wrote:If MacGyver was in MM, this is what he would drive. As his winter vehicle, maybe. But we all know MacGyver would have a DSM in his garage... Faster than shep!
Re: Project XJ - Jeff - 10-27-2009 A little test fit action. This is a 3in lift from the center of the hub to the bottom of the fender lip. The tire is a 31X10.5X15 LT-X that I plan on using as the spare. ![]() Same tire at stock ride height. It would not clear on the back. ![]() Wheel all painted up. Paint was still wet. It dried a perfect matte black finish. ![]()
Re: Project XJ - Jeff - 10-27-2009 My second of two write-ups. This is the abridged version because other people have done very good ones on this already. Basically JK shocks will fit on a 2-3in lifted XJ and work perfect. They bolt right in with the exception of the bottom of the front shocks. The XJ has a "bar pin" and the JK has a sleeve. JK for reference here is 07+ Wranger. The black shocks pictured earlier are off of an 08 X model, these red ones are off of a Rubicon. The difference in this case is the valving. Some early JK's that were not Rubicons had hydro shocks. Basically you just need to press the bushing out and press the bar-pin in. You need to get the bar pins from your stock shocks (in my case I got them off junk shocks from the shop) ![]() Just presses right out... ![]() Pin is like Mandingo compared to the sleeve ![]() Once again...like Mandingo...just lube it up good with silicone and press it in like you presses the sleeve out. Use a socket big enough for the bar pin to fit in but small enough so that you don't just push the rubber out the other side. ![]() Easy enough? Better then paying $100-$300 for shocks right? Re: Project XJ - Jeff - 11-10-2009 Write-up I did for cherokeeform.com in PDF form. How to rebuild a fog lamp switch, common problem. Thoughts would be appreciated. <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/view.php?id=1525265&da=y">http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/view.php?id=1525265&da=y</a><!-- m --> Re: Project XJ - BLAIR - 11-16-2009 sweet build..wanna buy mine?
Re: Project XJ - Jeff - 11-23-2009 I decided to do some electrical projects this weekend. I noticed the last time we wen to the farm that I do not have enough light in the back of the Cherokee for using it as a work bench. Also hooking up trailers in the dark is a bit of a bear. So I decided the deck lid needed to have some dome lights. Also I wanted to install my power inverter and an extra 12v socket back there for utility sake. This is not really a "write up" because I did not take good enough pics. At first I got some tractor trailer 16 in oval back up lamps to use. Printed on the back of the light housing is "not for dome light use." Apparently these lights will melt if left on for long periods of time...wtf. So Truck-Lite Inc. referred me to their dome light selection of which I ordered two from my local Napa. ![]() Such is my luck, only one came in. But I decided to do the installation anyway and just leave a hole with wires hanging for when the other got here. ![]() I got an idea for where I wanted to put them on the deck lid and then removed the deck lid panel to the work bench. This is just plastic clips and about 10 screws. I inspected the back and made a compromise between the best mounting location and where they looked best. I then measured out so it was all even and cut out the holes with a router. I HIGHLY recommend a router when working with plastic panels. ![]() Drilled holes for the screws, mounted and done. Hot glued the wiring to the back of the panel and put a 2pin plug on them to make them easy to remove if needed. ![]() ![]() The next part of the project was powering these lights and other accessories in the back. I ran a 4ga amp wire (enough for 1000w amp) to the passenger's quarter panel and terminated it in a 2 fuse block. ![]() From there I took power out to my power inverter, the dome lights, and the cig lighter. I needed two switches, one to break ground to the interior lights so I could leave the hatch up without dome lights (the oem switch for this function failed and I wired it out of the system) the second switch for the power inverter and cig plug. I had to prep the power inverter first. I wanted a custom look. ![]() ![]() Holes drilled, outlets mounted... the velcro holds my genuine blue bird school bus first aid kit I got from a friend at the school bus garage. ![]() ![]() As you can see I added a neon light I had laying around as a dome light for the switches. This light is on whenever the hatch is open, regardless of the kill switch position. Just cut a hole in the top of the cubby and zip tied it in. ![]() DONE! ![]() ![]() Whole thing took about 3 hours to do. Running all the wiring and stuff takes time. Everything works perfectly and its a great mod. I rewarded my hard work by finally checking out the stock flex. This is STOCK. Both front and rear sway bars are in place and connected. ![]() ![]() ![]()
Re: Project XJ - CaptainHenreh - 11-23-2009
Re: Project XJ - Paul - 11-24-2009 Jeff, you don't need a drop pitman arm for your lift. You only need one on a lift over 4-5" I believe. My Jeep has a 3.5" Rubicon Express lift and I have the stock pitman arm. Having a drop pitman arm with a small lift will cause steering issues like bump steer. Re: Project XJ - JustinG - 11-24-2009 ^^^^^^^^who the hell is this guy????? Re: Project XJ - Jeff - 11-24-2009 Some fool out of fucking nowhere :wink: Thanks Paul. I know I didn't need it but nothing in my reading suggested it would do any harm so anything to keep the geometry as close to stock was my original plan. I'm almost ready to do the lift...only a few more small things to get. Re: Project XJ - Jeff - 12-01-2009 Ok, so I ordered the last of the stuff I need for the lift today from Rusty's. I got u bolts, spring clips, spring pins, a T-case drop kit, and a new HD steering stabilizer. $110 shipped. I think I have already accounted for this in my accounting on the main page, I will check and update, it was a little more then I figured with shipping. Re: Project XJ - Paul - 12-01-2009 Gimme a call when you're ready for an SYE! Much cheaper than a TJ cause you don't have to buy a custom DS. |