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+--- Thread: Project Hatch (/showthread.php?tid=3782)
Re: Project Hatch - JustinG - 09-13-2011
So I was in work mode, no pics, sorry.
New pass lower balljoint
Both front LCAs installed
Front sway installed
Screwed down gauge pod
Torqued down header
Hooked up rear sway, finally picked up the hardware
Lowered the front, still have 1.75in of sleeve to lower the car, but doesn't look like ill need it needs to come up about half an inch.
![[Image: 47b0e9ec-09bd-a558.jpg]](http://tapatalk.com/mu/47b0e9ec-09bd-a558.jpg)
Installed go pro mounts for the hell of it.
![[Image: 47b0e9ec-09d2-69cb.jpg]](http://tapatalk.com/mu/47b0e9ec-09d2-69cb.jpg)
Final things to do:
Install rear wheel studs
Spacers
Adjust driver seat
Extend cat
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
Re: Project Hatch - Kaan - 09-14-2011
JustinG Wrote:So I was in work mode, no pics, sorry.
New pass lower balljoint
Both front LCAs installed
Front sway installed
Screwed down gauge pod
Torqued down header
Hooked up rear sway, finally picked up the hardware
Lowered the front, still have 1.75in of sleeve to lower the car, but doesn't look like ill need it needs to come up about half an inch.
Installed go pro mounts for the hell of it.
Final things to do:
Install rear wheel studs
Spacers
Adjust driver seat
Extend cat
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
lol and then you need to corner balance it (with a 200lb person in the passenger seat) and get it aligned
Re: Project Hatch - D_Eclipse9916 - 09-14-2011
Kaan Wrote:JustinG Wrote:So I was in work mode, no pics, sorry.
New pass lower balljoint
Both front LCAs installed
Front sway installed
Screwed down gauge pod
Torqued down header
Hooked up rear sway, finally picked up the hardware
Lowered the front, still have 1.75in of sleeve to lower the car, but doesn't look like ill need it needs to come up about half an inch.
Installed go pro mounts for the hell of it.
Final things to do:
Install rear wheel studs
Spacers
Adjust driver seat
Extend cat
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
lol and then you need to corner balance it (with a 200lb person in the passenger seat) and get it aligned
+1, and you have a donkey friend that currently is in possession of scales.
Re: Project Hatch - Mike - 09-14-2011
are you able to calculate an effective spring rate w/ springs + sways? you might need to come up more than 1/2" if your effective rate is lower than mine. i regularly dragged something (i think it was a rear jack point, but that seems inconceivable... since the tire would have to be above the body?? regardless, it was a metal scraping and that RR jack point is worn a bit) exiting the bowl at shenandoah...
then again, i was on r-comps and probably a little closer to the limit than you'll be at the start... you might be able to make the changes over a period over time as you speed up.
Re: Project Hatch - Kaan - 09-14-2011
or you could be like DJ: "the car is handling like ass after i got the cage put in!"
you will be saying: "these koni/gc's fucking suck!"
10 years in the tech shed, i learned a couple things.
Re: Project Hatch - JustinG - 09-14-2011
the oil pan had a bit of scrapes on it, may have been that? Im going to try and get an alignment before the autoX in a couple weeks. Thing is, im 99% sure that regardless, this car will handle way better then the GSX did without any adjustment.
However, I have been looking at calculating the effective spring rate with sways. Hard to do considering there were no existing sways. Anyone have any formulas?????
Re: Project Hatch - .RJ - 09-14-2011
Dont need a formula to know that car will be too low... raise it up 1" or so, and then put zip ties on your shock shafts. Check them after a session or two on track - they'll tell you how much shock travel you're using. If the zip ties are buried in the bump stops you might be too low. Cut the bumpstops down too (1" or so long).
Re: Project Hatch - JustinG - 09-14-2011
good call, will do.
Re: Project Hatch - D_Eclipse9916 - 09-14-2011
JustinG Wrote:the oil pan had a bit of scrapes on it, may have been that? Im going to try and get an alignment before the autoX in a couple weeks. Thing is, im 99% sure that regardless, this car will handle way better then the GSX did without any adjustment.
However, I have been looking at calculating the effective spring rate with sways. Hard to do considering there were no existing sways. Anyone have any formulas?????
Make sure you have accurate wheel ratios for calculative effective spring rate. Why are you worried about effective spring rate? Unless your calculating out your Motion Ratio and Natural Frequency, tuning spring rates is more about feel and lap times. Time and time again, even if you get what you think your Natural Frequency should be, and what resulting setup occurs; that on track professional race teams still bring tons of spring options with them to "tune" into that car. Thats why new race cars always suck and why you need sorting from actual on track data.
Your getting ahead of yourself. Go out there with a popular setup and then adjust from there based on data and feel. Honestly at your level get it close to "right" and not worry about the car too much. Until you have data on how fast your laps are (and are being at least a somewhat consistent driver), dont go messing around with it.
Re: Project Hatch - D_Eclipse9916 - 09-14-2011
Bring the car to Mexican Fiesta this weekend and ill bring the cornerweight scales?
Re: Project Hatch - CaptainHenreh - 09-14-2011
D_Eclipse9916 Wrote:Bring the car to Mexican Fiesta this weekend and ill bring the cornerweight scales?
I don't know if my garage is level but you guys are welcome to try.
Re: Project Hatch - JustinG - 09-14-2011
D_Eclipse9916 Wrote:Why are you worried about effective spring rate?
Was just curious thats all.
Re: Project Hatch - Mike - 09-14-2011
nah, scraped oil pan would have been from previous previous owner's (before me) suspenson setup. cut tenzo-r springs and stock shocks.
Re: Project Hatch - JustinG - 09-14-2011
Mike Wrote:cut tenzo-r springs and stock shocks.
Should have just done that, BAWLIN
Re: Project Hatch - navin - 09-14-2011
Nicey Nice - howd you end up getting the linkage off? Glad the brackets worked out for you, they were collecting dust in my toolbox
Re: Re: Project Hatch - JustinG - 09-14-2011
navin Wrote:Nicey Nice - howd you end up getting the linkage off? Glad the brackets worked out for you, they were collecting dust in my toolbox
Gave it the finger then unbolted it from the shifter. Sway bar was able to be snaked in very easily.
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Re: Project Hatch - JustinG - 09-14-2011
Wheel studs and spacers are installed on the rear. Was easy, just a BFH and done.
![[Image: 2011-09-14_19-53-23_963.jpg]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fWDPfyroUig/TnFIfK-lUoI/AAAAAAAABzA/5b_y4r3PY6c/s640/2011-09-14_19-53-23_963.jpg)
![[Image: 2011-09-14_19-54-10_864.jpg]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aAlaUgZJBZM/TnFIjnbX7tI/AAAAAAAABzU/gYpif_95zHo/s640/2011-09-14_19-54-10_864.jpg)
![[Image: 2011-09-14_20-05-17_793.jpg]](https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-cAmefa-mZ9s/TnFIooPJv5I/AAAAAAAABzI/9HxSOGc90Oo/s640/2011-09-14_20-05-17_793.jpg)
Waiting to install the front studs because the hub has to be pulled for those, and dont wanna screw up a wheel bearing this close to the auto x.
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Re: Project Hatch - .RJ - 09-14-2011
You'll need new wheel bearings.
Re: Project Hatch - JustinG - 09-14-2011
not what i wanted to hear
Re: Project Hatch - JPolen01 - 09-14-2011
I am doing my studs next month probably. New wheel bearings a must? How was doing the rear? I have drums out back so it's going to be a little different install for me.