Project Hatch - Printable Version

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Project Hatch - Printable Version

+- Madison Motorsports (https://forum.mmsports.org)
+-- Forum: Technical (https://forum.mmsports.org/forumdisplay.php?fid=4)
+--- Forum: Member's Projects (https://forum.mmsports.org/forumdisplay.php?fid=12)
+--- Thread: Project Hatch (/showthread.php?tid=3782)

Pages: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53

Re: Project Hatch - JustinG - 07-27-2011

would be +1, Ass

Re: Project Hatch - D_Eclipse9916 - 07-27-2011

Do not grind it if you dont plan on taking points for it.

Re: Project Hatch - JustinG - 07-28-2011

Decided to wrap the header tonight.....I completely forgot how much of a pain in the ass this is, especially on a small 4cyl header.

Started with the easiest first, using the Summit Racing brand 1in x 50ft header wrap, its made by DEI and its slightly cheaper, even includes the same DEI instructions. Also those SS Ties I got at NAPA, $7.99 for 10, 11" ties....
[Image: 2011-07-28_16-19-56_587.jpg]

Then moved along to each runner...
[Image: 2011-07-28_16-36-03_792.jpg]

The 2nd from the right was a bit of a pain due to clearances between the tubes, so i had to go with the 1st on the left and then get creative with the wrap on the trouble tube.
[Image: 2011-07-28_17-14-31_679.jpg]

This is a 4-2-1 header, the 2 -1 part I wrapped the 2 tubes together to halfway down the bend.
[Image: 2011-07-28_18-37-23_829.jpg]

Then wrapped the straight section with some remaining 2in wrap all together, hung it up and painted it with the silicon spray paint.

[Image: 2011-07-28_19-00-03_607.jpg]

Re: Project Hatch - Kaan - 07-29-2011

great you can do my header too Wink

Re: Project Hatch - CaptainHenreh - 07-29-2011

I do not see the moistening agent for the pre-wrap soak.

edit: Always apply a moistening agent before wrapping your pipe.

edit2: Doing so will enhance performance.

edit3: Use only an approved moistening agent, as ill-suited ones could result in damage to your wrap and affect the long-term health of your pipe.

Re: Project Hatch - JustinG - 07-29-2011

I've never moistened it, I've realized that when you do it dry, the longer you play with it, the easier it is to work with. And much easier cleanup if you dont moisten it.

Its only "recommended" to moisten it, not required, per the instructions provided from Summit.

Re: Project Hatch - Mike - 07-29-2011

that's gonna chafe.

Re: Project Hatch - JustinG - 08-02-2011

So update for today. The ricer in me took over!!!!

Decided to pull and paint the VC, it was looking pretty bad, and even though this is a track car, why cant it look good? Plus the VC gasket needed to be replaced anyway.

VC pulled, under looks good and clean.
[Image: 2011-08-02_17-25-53_788.jpg]

Tried to degrease it with brake cleaner, didn't work out to well.
[Image: 2011-08-02_17-26-15_499.jpg]

So Fuggit, here comes the the Aircraft stripper. Bubble Bubble. Do not inhale this stuff, it burns.
[Image: 2011-08-02_17-31-37_741.jpg]

ALL CREAN.
[Image: 2011-08-02_18-09-17_939.jpg]

Wiped down with Alcohol and took a brass brush to it to clean it up.

I figure its a Honda, so naturally it needs a Red VC. Used VHT Wrinkle finish, apparently this stuff gives you that JDM TYTE look yo.
[Image: 2011-08-02_18-24-54_475.jpg]

Calls for three HEAVY coats, each coat using a different pattern, Horizontal, Vertical, and Diagonal spray patterns.

Coat 1-
[Image: 2011-08-02_18-23-50_936.jpg]

Let sit for 5 minutes, then go at it again.
[Image: 2011-08-02_18-28-26_989.jpg]

Coat 3

I did 4 coats, but all the pictures look the same. Now, this says to not handle it at all for 24 hours, but after 3 hours of drying it started to turn out really nice.
[Image: 2011-08-02_19-56-11_622.jpg]

I'm really happy with the results, I think it looks great! RICER!!!!!!!! Said to let it sit for 24 to 48 hours to cure, or bake at 200 degrees for 40 minutes (Casey wasn't having that).

Meanwhile as the VC is drying I decided to get started on installing the GCs.
[Image: 2011-08-02_18-51-43_26.jpg]

Now at the same time in going to pull the LCAs to replace them with Integra/EX LCAs which have the hole required to run a front sway bar, where the Endlinks attach.

Removed the bolt/nut holding the shock fork to the LCA.
[Image: 2011-08-02_18-51-58_701.jpg]

Loosened the bolt that tightens down on the shock.
[Image: 2011-08-02_18-52-13_215.jpg]

These three bolts will remove the LCA.
[Image: 2011-08-02_18-52-30_366.jpg]

LCA to Knuckle nut. And this is where I ran into a snag, the LCA will not come down off the knuckle, even using my seperator.
[Image: 2011-08-02_18-53-11_60.jpg]

So I will have to pull the Axle from the hub to get a good angle to smack the LCA down with a BFH. However, no 32mm socket in my toolbox to remove the retaining nut for the axle.

Final Bolt holding on the LCA.
[Image: 2011-08-02_18-53-43_764.jpg]

So the front is on hold.

Rear, Piece of damn cake.
[Image: 2011-08-02_19-29-56_903.jpg]

Remove the lower shock mount bolt from the LCA. and the LCA bolt connecting it to the rear hub. (no pic)
[Image: 2011-08-02_19-30-06_578.jpg]

Removed the 2 bolts holding the top of the shock in place. slapped the coilover onto the shock. And voila!
[Image: 2011-08-02_19-55-21_376.jpg]

Not sure what my ride height will be, varies from 1-4 inches, many people say to start off with it in the middle, but I thought that would have made the car slammed. So once I get the front buttoned up, ill finish it up and see how she sits, with pics of course. KNOCK on wood, not a single bolt gave me a problem, aside from the LCA/Knuckle connection.

Re: Project Hatch - navin - 08-02-2011

Justin - for the lower balljoint (knuckle to LCA) that has you stuck, you can smack the lips of the LCA with a BFH and it should loosen up easily. Just rethread the castle nut back onto the balljoint threads as to not mess them up.

If that sketches you out, you can also jack up the suspension from the LCA or brake rotor, and then take a 1/2 drive ratchet and wedge in btwn the balljoint and LCA. Lower the jack and possibly have someone press down on the rotor as well, and it should pop the balljoint loose from the LCA.

I use the first method usually, but had to use the 2nd method tonight on the Hype-R.

Re: Project Hatch - .RJ - 08-03-2011

Why didnt you light it on fire?

Re: Project Hatch - JustinG - 08-03-2011

.RJ Wrote:Why didnt you light it on fire?

Im not allowed to be within 500ft of a flame source. Long story, eyebrows were lost.

Re: Project Hatch - kcook - 08-03-2011

Me likey updates

Re: Project Hatch - Kaan - 08-03-2011

UG valve covers are the best.

Re: Project Hatch - D_Eclipse9916 - 08-03-2011

I love it, nice write-up with pictures.

Re: Project Hatch - V1GiLaNtE - 08-03-2011

VC looks phresh yo!

Re: Project Hatch - JustinG - 08-03-2011

HERRA PHRESH

Re: Project Hatch - Evan - 08-03-2011

maybe its earlier in this thread but how are compression and leakdown?

Re: - JustinG - 08-03-2011

Mike Wrote:compression test (180-160-170-180)

Last compression test was done in 06.

I'll probably do a compression test on my own, just need to get the kit from my dad, thanks for reminding me. I doubt its far off from that, considering Mikey made it to the track/drove the car maybe once since then. Regardless of results, im driving it til it pops. Then LS7 swap.

Re: Re: - Kaan - 08-03-2011

JustinG Wrote:
Mike Wrote:compression test (180-160-170-180)

Last compression test was done in 06.

I'll probably do a compression test on my own, just need to get the kit from my dad, thanks for reminding me. I doubt its far off from that, considering Mikey made it to the track/drove the car maybe once since then. Regardless of results, im driving it til it pops. Then LS7 swap.

K24/K20 hybrid?... i guess if you want an LS7 thats cool too... but i'm pretty sure you'll need to up the spring rates and put some big sway bars in it Wink

Re: Project Hatch - CaptainHenreh - 08-03-2011

4G63?

[Image: dr.evil.jpg]