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+--- Thread: Matt's 1999 M3 (/showthread.php?tid=9345)
Re: Matt's 1999 M3 - Sully - 08-30-2011
Newest update is just talks and hopes. I think I will be picking up an aluminum radiator from Peter and a power steering pump from Dj, but both of those are just to acquire the parts as I can't afford to get the rest of the parts I need. I also need rear subframe bushings to remedy that vibration I get from the rear when under acceleration.
I believe one of my front end vibration problems and my increase vibration underbraking is due to a stuck caliper which I will try to remedy by rebuilding it which will be my next project to avoid completley ruining my brand new rotors, which I am probably already to late and I am not sure they can be saved becasue they are drilled/slotted rotors. I think while I have one caliper off, I will remove the others as well and rebuild them also. Some fresh brake fuild and a proper bleed on them and the clutch at the same time should finish the job up nicely. Finding time to do it and extra money incase of a corrosion on any of the pistons especially the fornt left (the one that sticks) is another issue entirely. With any luck, I can get home by the end of september, beginning of october and get it done, and will probably avoid driving the car whenever possible until then.
I also ordered a Yellow Top (the same model I have in the truck) because my car had some starting issues ever since I did the major overhaul on the drivetrain and the car sat for a week. After driving it and then letting it sit 1 to 2 days, it would die again. What I narrowed it down to is actually more interesting than just an old battery which is what I thought it was. It turns out that when you open a door, the trunk light would come on, and then it would not shut off. However if you open the trunk and shut it, the light goes off. Not sure where the issue is coming from here, but rather than have a shut down procedure and mulitiple steps every time I get out of the car, I have disconnected the negative wire from the light for the time being(it was just a spade connector on the light). Not even sure where to begin to troubleshoot this thing but I ordered a new battery anyways because I got it for a good deal, and I am an Optima fanboy. My stock tie down is also shot so this will give me a chance to make one for the optima and have a secure battery. I like a very clean wire setup so I ordered the double post battery and will probably run the stock electronics off the GM side posts. Why the yellow? This will not be my track car so I plan to have a modest sound system(not rediculous like the truck) but I never want to worry about over using the battery. Yes the red top has a better warranty, but knock on wood, my other yellow top is still going srtong and the truck sits for extended periods with no charger connected. The yellow top also has more CCA than the stock or the Aftermarket ones most owners replace them with so I should be fine there as well. The reserve capacity differentiates by about 20 minutes which I really don't get the point in the yellow top line but I wanted to play it safe since I will run a more powerful sound system, electric fans, and probably other little electronics here and there so i waited until I was good and ready to go with an impulse decision and sent the e-mail with the model number on a wim so I wouldn't overthink it. Red Top or Yellow Top, an optima is an optima and it is an upgrade either way.
Re: Matt's 1999 M3 - Sully - 09-30-2011
Alright, so tonight I ordered:
A black label Motive Power Bleeder,
Two Motive Bleeder bottles (never had to do brakes but usually just let the clutch run onto the floor, figured I try something more professional)
2 Liters of ATE Super Blue (the sales pitch of it being blue making it easy to tell when brakes fully bled got me)
4 ATE Caliper rebuild kits from Pelican (more expensive than RockAuto but that place still sketches me out a little on certain parts)
Plan to grab some G2 Caliper Paint as well.
So I still have the Optima at home and I also managed to pick up a jack for my birthday which is waiting for me at home as well. Will probably limp the car home in 2 weeks to do all the calipers. Might throw the battery in as well if I figure out a mount for it or I will just wait until Thanksgiving break.
I did happen to see that I can get 6 Bosch Ignitions Coils for $280 on RockAuto with the boots which I find wierd becasue they are much more expensive for non-bosch ones everywhere else. Any input on this? Are bosch ones shit? I am used to Bosch being the good shit in the equation on most things.
EDIT: Looking at Pelican, the Bosch Coils look like they are for the 323 and 328 while the M3 uses a Bremi/STI. Could this just be that Pelican doesn't stock Bosch Coils for the M or did they never have Bosch Coils?
Re: Matt's 1999 M3 - ScottyB - 09-30-2011
love the Motive bleeder. I've used mine a few times and its idiot-proof for guys like me that aren't the best with a wrench :lol:
Re: Matt's 1999 M3 - Sully - 10-06-2011
So most of the parts are on the way as stated above. In addition I also ordered a new Power Steering Resevoir and some clamps. Waiting to meet up with DJ at the track on Saturday before I order the hose but might do it tonight just so it is here in time. Plan to do the Brakes and Power Steering next weekend and then drive the car back up to school on Sunday so it kind of an all or nothing thing.
Can anyone chime in on the Ignition Coils
Re: Matt's 1999 M3 - Kaan - 10-06-2011
yes on a BMW, they f-up all the time
Re: Matt's 1999 M3 - Sully - 10-06-2011
Thanks Kaan, I think its just due to the far engine superiority of the I6 over the Japanese 4 bangers. When the coil gets to its expiration date, the car lets you know by running like shit so you can replace it with fresh ones. To keep the engine at maximum freshness, the coils wear out prematurely. That's just the price you gotta pay to have a fresh I6. :wink:
On a serious note, my car has 160k on it so even if this is the second round of coils, I don't think that too much different than most none BMW cars. I had to replace on my Ford at 55k
Can anyone give any insight into why the coils are so cheap on RockAuto for this car. They are Bosch brand and I do not believe the M3 uses Bosch. This is where the insight is needed.
Re: Matt's 1999 M3 - JustinG - 10-06-2011
Sully Wrote:Can anyone give any insight into why the coils are so cheap on RockAuto for this car. They are Bosch brand and I do not believe the M3 uses Bosch. This is where the insight is needed.
Seems like they arent "so cheap"? But maybe the OEMs are just over priced like all OEM parts. Bosch is reputable, I would think you would be fine. Id be a little more leery of the Beck/Arnley parts, but im sure youll be perfectly fine with the Bosch coil.
Just found this link.....
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/E36-Spark-Plugs.htm">http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/E36-Spark-Plugs.htm</a><!-- m -->
Take a look at the pics, all the coils are Bosch Coils!
Not to mention BOSCH is a German company.
Re: Matt's 1999 M3 - Sully - 10-06-2011
I don't doubt bosch's quality and in fact I'd prefer them over most other brands. I doubt rockauto's knowledge because I have only ever seen bosch coils for the 325 and 328...m3 coils are completly different though
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Re: Matt's 1999 M3 - JustinG - 10-06-2011
Sully Wrote:I have only ever seen bosch coils for the 325 and 328...m3 coils are completly different though
Pelican seems to think they are all the same part???
Clicky Pow
EDIT: Rock Autos list of compatible vehicles seems to correspond with Pelicans
Re: Matt's 1999 M3 - xvxax - 10-06-2011
The 325/1995 m3 coils are the same, the 328s and 96+ m3 had different coils because BMW switched to a plastic valve cover and the bolt hole locations changed or something stupid. BMWs suck. Bosch coils will be fine, they provide a lot of OEM parts for bmws. They're likely OE quality.
Edit: Never, ever, ever trust RockAuto without checking. They have the model part number split wrong for Ranger brakes, bearings.
Re: Matt's 1999 M3 - Sully - 10-06-2011
BAM
If you notice, Bosch coils are for the 323/328 and the M3 coil at least on Pelican is Bremi/STI
Re: Matt's 1999 M3 - xvxax - 10-06-2011
Pelican may split them for whatever reason, but the part numbers for the coil pack on the 325/1995 m3 and 328/1996-1999 m3 are the same. ETK says so. Anyway, buy them BOSCH units.
1997 328i
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BG13&mospid=47485&btnr=12_0425&hg=12&fg=05">http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BG13&mospid=47485&btnr=12_0425&hg=12&fg=05</a><!-- m -->
1997 m3
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BG93&mospid=47488&btnr=12_0425&hg=12&fg=05">http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BG93&mospid=47488&btnr=12_0425&hg=12&fg=05</a><!-- m -->
Re: Matt's 1999 M3 - Kaan - 10-06-2011
Sully Wrote:Thanks Kaan, I think its just due to the far engine superiority of the I6 over the Japanese 4 bangers.
its ok...i'm stocking up on used coils for the K20... that and timing chain tensioners.
Re: Matt's 1999 M3 - JPolen01 - 10-06-2011
[quote="Kaan" that and timing chain tensioners.[/quote]
Ain't that the truth for k20 motors. At least you know what your in for!
Re: Matt's 1999 M3 - Sully - 10-06-2011
Side note, when it comes time to do the Cooling system overhaul, I think I will switch to the Euro Reservoir with the money I saved from buying Peter's radiator. I know it self bleeds..but how much is a PITA of the US one as far as bleeding goes. I hear nothing but bad things about the US one but anyone know main Benefits?
Re: Matt's 1999 M3 - D_Eclipse9916 - 10-06-2011
No benefits, but its another $300 to properly do the euro reservior and kind of a pain in the ass.
Re: Matt's 1999 M3 - Sully - 10-06-2011
Arn't you going Euro? Not saying I'm copying you (Ok I am) but I thought you were sayin you couldn't wait to go Euro. It's $300 total I thought including the reservoir.
Re: Matt's 1999 M3 - SlimKlim - 10-07-2011
Yeah, I think the US reservoir also self bleeds, doesn't it?
Get a Euro MAF instead of a Euro Reservoir. :-) Although, that might be a OBDI thing, not sure.
Re: Matt's 1999 M3 - Kaan - 10-07-2011
you german car guys need to swirl pot
Re: Matt's 1999 M3 - Sully - 10-10-2011
Kaan, you will be happy to know I may be considering something other than spec miata for the first time as my track car. Dj may have convinced me that Spec3 is the way to go. Not to mention I reinforce almost everything I do on my M by sticking with BMW...sorry, don't think anyone could convince me to build and aspire to be in a honda challenge car.
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