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+--- Forum: Member's Projects (https://forum.mmsports.org/forumdisplay.php?fid=12)
+--- Thread: Project Hatch (/showthread.php?tid=3782)
- Mike - 12-11-2006
So today...
Threw some fresh MT90 on the tranny. Old fluid was pretty dirty, which is odd because it probably only had about 10,000 miles on it. All gears feel very nice.
Decided to not caulk the window since it isn't leaking AND I just happened to walk by a car in a parking lot the other day that had it done and it looked like absolute shit. I don't trust myself to make it pretty so fuggit.
Have had an idle fluctuation when the motor is cold ever since I bought the car. the valves are not cheap so when I saw an aftermarket intake manifold with one already attached for sale on the cheap, I bought it. I was going to put the manifold on the car, but Honda-Challenge chose one specific brand (Blox) as legal so I might as well just get one of those. Funny, the Blox is actually a copy of the Skunk2 I had so I'll sell this thing for $150 and buy a Blox new for $150... Whatever. Not really cold out today so I couldn't tell you if it worked, but the butt dyno said idle was nicer.
Washed windows for the first time in years, and replaced a coupl;e ugly looking vacuum hoses.
Tomorrow night will be spent examining the sticky caliper and hopefully replacing my wires, plugs, and cap/rotor (if they come).
Oh yeah, also put a new hood emblem on. The car didn't come with one... I'm not sure if I like it or not, but that could just be because I'm used to not seeing one there.
---
done: iacv, wash windows, tranny fluid
on the way: cap/rotor, wires, plugs
want to do: bushings/balljoints, install harness (sabelt), install camera mount (ioport), install header (dcsports 4-2-1), buy/install intake manifold (blox), rear sway bar, alignment, new cluster or get a monster tach, oil pressure and water temp gauges, broadway mirror, lightweight battery, cf hood, yank rear interior panels.
- Mike - 12-18-2006
plugs and wires done tonight. let the bitch idle for a few and it felt the same, but whatever. pics of old plugs (running a little rich i guess?): <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://iammike.org/pictures/miscellaneous/forums/IMG_2486.JPG">http://iammike.org/pictures/miscellaneo ... G_2486.JPG</a><!-- m --> and <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://iammike.org/pictures/miscellaneous/forums/IMG_2487.JPG">http://iammike.org/pictures/miscellaneo ... G_2487.JPG</a><!-- m --> . RJ had me put some 6s in there to replace the existing (and recommended) 5s so we'll see how that goes
rotor and cap also arrived, but i don't think i'll be putting them in and instead carry them as spares. after all, if the dizzy works, it works, right?
done: wires and plugs
must do: front balljoints, harness, camera mount
want to do: bushings, install header (dcsports 4-2-1), buy/install intake manifold (blox), rear sway bar, alignment, new cluster or get a monster tach, oil pressure and water temp gauges, broadway mirror, lightweight battery, cf hood, yank rear interior panels.
- .RJ - 12-18-2006
Hard to read plugs if the car has just been sitting and idling in the driveway, FYI.
- ViPER1313 - 12-18-2006
Those plugs look beautiful - there is nothing wrong with them and they still look brand new....
- Mike - 12-18-2006
.RJ Wrote:Hard to read plugs if the car has just been sitting and idling in the driveway, FYI.
bad one, i drive it to work about once a week.
- Mike - 12-18-2006
ViPER1313 Wrote:Those plugs look beautiful - there is nothing wrong with them and they still look brand new....
word, yeah <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/faq/faqread2.asp">http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/s ... qread2.asp</a><!-- m --> says they are normal
that makes me happy considering i've never replaced them in the 3 years and 40k miles i've owned it (who knows before that).plugs were also in mint condition so now i have some healthy spares.
- Mike - 12-24-2006
cycled the piston a few times, but the disc is still far hotter than the other side after a couple spirited runs... funny thing, there was a guy in a rollbar'd miata doing some shaking down on the same road, but going the opposite direction. we passed each other like 4 times
should i just forget about the caliper until it causes a problem? it's getting about as hot as the fronts while the other rear is hardly warm.
also took off the nasty air filter (new one on the way from k&n) and the car feels a bit quicker. probably just the butt dyno, though.
really happy with my current suspension set up too, it was sticking like a mofo.
- Ginger - 12-24-2006
How did you figure out the caliper was sticking? I'm curious because I'm not sure I'd ever notice something like that. Is it the kind of thing you notice when you're changing pads and come across, or could you feel a wheel dragging?
- Mike - 12-25-2006
can't feel a thing. heard it squeaking one commute. checked temps with my fingers and sure enough it was extremely hot.
- Mike - 12-29-2006
New K&N air filter came in today. The old one was quite the nasty, but I can't feel any difference. Ordered up some new radiator hoses ('94 Del Sol VTEC fit best), and a rear caliper rebuild kit, which should be fun.
Plan on stripping out the plastic in the rear this weekend and finding a few rattles/squeaks/pounds to eliminate.
Have a lead on a CF hood, which should save me 20lbs on the front. Oh yeah, bling too.
- Evan - 12-29-2006
FWIW, SM dyno testing has shown a regular paper filter to make more power than K&N, you just have to replace it more often.
- Mike - 12-29-2006
i'm all for not having to replace things
it was a PITA trying to find something that fit that giant intake thing i have anyway. the k&n site had nice dimensions and all that so they got my business. i certainly didn't get it because i think it'd give me mad hp
- Beej - 12-29-2006
The one time I tried to rebuild a caliper, it blew massive peen.
- Mike - 12-30-2006
rear plastics are all pulled as are some random bits that had no function with no rear seats. car felt really health, but i think i could use a valve adjustment. rrrrjjjjjj i have beeeer and pooooorn. oh yeah, also straightened out a seatbelt. woot!
- Mike - 12-30-2006
welp, found the rattle that drove me over the edge... a nickel underneath my carpet. oh well, the reaar interior needed to come out some day.
- Mike - 01-03-2007
drove the car last night. it seems the rubbing i'm getting from the single rear brake is not constant, but instead only one section each revolution. maybe i have a nasty deposit formed and since the rears don't back off on their own the caliper has settled "in the low spot" causing a rub on the high spot? i also noticed that it is worse when i am cornering... maybe an e-brake line is being pulled?
anyone have any ideas?
i'm going to sand the rotor (or maybe just get a new one, they are like $20/ea) and if that doesn't work, i'll trace my e-brake line since when i put them in i was forced to zip-tie it in some places
- ScottyB - 01-03-2007
Mike Wrote:i'll trace my e-brake line since when i put them in i was forced to zip-tie it in some places
my vote is for that too, although i would think the suspension's range of motion wouldn't (shouldn't) effect it. what kind of pads are on there?
- Mike - 01-03-2007
axxis ultimates. the way the e-brake line is routed, suspension travel (even though i have little to none during normal driving w/ 800lb/in springs) could pull the cable a little.
if it isn't that there would be no reason for more rub during cornering... the disc shouldn't have a different range of motion or axis or whatever than anything else since it's all bolted up... get me? am i right? unless those bolted together metal bits flex a tiny bit?
- ScottyB - 01-03-2007
Mike Wrote:axxis ultimates. the way the e-brake line is routed, suspension travel (even though i have little to none during normal driving w/ 800lb/in springs) could pull the cable a little.
if it isn't that there would be no reason for more rub during cornering... the disc shouldn't have a different range of motion or axis or whatever than anything else since it's all bolted up... get me? am i right? unless those bolted together metal bits flex a tiny bit?
no, i definitely get you. i was thinking that maybe if you had stock pads they could have overheated and left a fat deposit or two.
also, the pads float around in their carriers when you're off the brakes, right? so in a turn could they not be subjected to g-forces and harmlessly ride up against the brake rotor? maybe that's making the noise.
- Mike - 01-03-2007
it isn't harmless, it's causing a squeak and lots and lots of heat! doesn't affect my driving at all, but at the track, a ru bbing pad is a very bad thing even if it's in the rear.