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+--- Thread: Project 2.Slow Mazda3 (/showthread.php?tid=10604)
Re: Project 2.Slow Mazda3 - D_Eclipse9916 - 11-19-2015
rherold9 Wrote:Fuck college students who drive off and leave no info.
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![[Image: 3309acb34bcdf308e64f88a19550d6d2.jpg]](http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/19/3309acb34bcdf308e64f88a19550d6d2.jpg)
So can you pull it all off and make your car look good again? :wink:
Re: Project 2.Slow Mazda3 - Kaan - 11-19-2015
they get out of college and do the same crap parking around arlington...
Re: Project 2.Slow Mazda3 - JPolen01 - 11-19-2015
D_Eclipse9916 Wrote:So can you pull it all off and make your car look good again? :wink:
![[Image: oohh-burn.gif?itok=_yX_ejDW]](http://cdn1.relevantmediagroup.com/sites/default/files/styles/article_inline/public/field/content_image/oohh-burn.gif?itok=_yX_ejDW)
Re: Project 2.Slow Mazda3 - SlimKlim - 11-19-2015
No really though, how do you repair this? Can you pull the bumper off, peel it and re-coat it separately and get a good color match?
Re: Project 2.Slow Mazda3 - rherold9 - 11-19-2015
D_Eclipse9916 Wrote:So can you pull it all off and make your car look good again? :wink:
Opinions are like assholes, everyone has them. You don't have to like it but I do
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Re: Project 2.Slow Mazda3 - rherold9 - 11-19-2015
SlimKlim Wrote:No really though, how do you repair this? Can you pull the bumper off, peel it and re-coat it separately and get a good color match?There are two ways. Peel it and respray the whole bumper or tape off an area dip dissolve the messed up part and respray just that section (harder to match though this way)
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Re: Project 2.Slow Mazda3 - SlimKlim - 11-19-2015
Yeah I'd imagine it'd be really tough to spot blend it in and have it look right. At least it's a lot cheaper to re-dip than to repaint.
Re: Project 2.Slow Mazda3 - D_Eclipse9916 - 11-19-2015
rherold9 Wrote:You don't have to like it but I do
:thumbup:
Re: Project 2.Slow Mazda3 - rherold9 - 11-19-2015
SlimKlim Wrote:Yeah I'd imagine it'd be really tough to spot blend it in and have it look right. At least it's a lot cheaper to re-dip than to repaint.Oh yeah a lot cheaper. It is possible to spot blend. I'm leaving it up to what Scott wants to do. 50ish dollars of assume it to cost to fix
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Re: Project 2.Slow Mazda3 - rherold9 - 12-15-2015
Lol they moved the BFG Rival S and Bridgestone RE71-R to +6 on the new calculators for 2016. That puts me now in low TTE from high TTF if I left the car as is :lol:
NASA considers them R-Compound tires even though the manufacturer doesn't state they are. Interesting. I know they have more grip than a "normal" 200 treadwear tire but they aren't R-Compound tires. Puts them on the same level as Michelin Pilot Sport Cup & MPS Cup 2, Nitto NT01, Pirelli PZero Corsa, Toyo R888, Toyo RA-1, and Yokahama A048. A bit excessive point increase, imo. A +4 would be more reasonable if there should be a point increase at all. I mean the rest of the 200 treadwear tire manufactures will be doing similar tactics on new tread compounds to provide similar grip levels as these tires so they don't lose business. What I'm getting at is are they just going to move all 200 treadwear tires to R-compound levels eventually or nit-pick ones that are proven to be faster? How can they prove one is faster than another? They'd have to do tests same car, same day, same temps, etc... to get accurate results. Seems kind of just like a bs way to put a temp bandage on the point system and screw those tires over. This also can be applied to the R-Compound tires will they be moved up to +11 or whatever slowly?
I'm making a big deal out of this because this can be applied to any new tire compounds that will be coming out over the years.
Re: Project 2.Slow Mazda3 - Kaan - 12-15-2015
All the fast tires, r comp or not, get penalized. It usually just takes a year.
Re: Project 2.Slow Mazda3 - D_Eclipse9916 - 12-16-2015
rherold9 Wrote:Lol they moved the BFG Rival S and Bridgestone RE71-R to +6 on the new calculators for 2016. That puts me now in low TTE from high TTF if I left the car as is :lol:
Puts them on the same level as Michelin Pilot Sport Cup & MPS Cup 2, Nitto NT01, Pirelli PZero Corsa, Toyo R888, Toyo RA-1, and Yokahama A048. A bit excessive point increase, imo.
Because they are faster than pretty much all the tires listed. The new "200 treadwear" tires are absolutely ridiculous in grip. It makes a lot of sense.
Re: Project 2.Slow Mazda3 - rherold9 - 12-16-2015
D_Eclipse9916 Wrote:Because they are faster than pretty much all the tires listed. The new "200 treadwear" tires are absolutely ridiculous in grip. It makes a lot of sense.
Sure, faster than the old 200 treadwear, but I doubt as fast as R-compounds (at least the good ones). I'd say somewhere in between so +4 would be more reasonable, imo.
I guess they'll drop like Kaan said but sucks for people who bought those tires and now got screwed for this season :lol:
Re: Project 2.Slow Mazda3 - D_Eclipse9916 - 12-16-2015
rherold9 Wrote:D_Eclipse9916 Wrote:Because they are faster than pretty much all the tires listed. The new "200 treadwear" tires are absolutely ridiculous in grip. It makes a lot of sense.
Sure, faster than the old 200 treadwear, but I doubt as fast as R-compounds (at least the good ones). I'd say somewhere in between so +4 would be more reasonable, imo.
I guess they'll drop like Kaan said but sucks for people who bought those tires and now got screwed for this season :lol:
You don't get it. Your RE71Rs ARE faster than the old "R-comps" that are worth +6. There is a reason good R compounds such as A7/R7/R1/R1S are in the 12-22 point range and a A048/RA1/Pilot Cup are +6. The New street tires destroy the old r compounds. So no, no one is getting screwed, the tires are faster
Edit: come off a bit dickish. Sorry, very frustrated with the incompetent rule makes for GTS right now. :lol:
Re: Project 2.Slow Mazda3 - rherold9 - 12-16-2015
D_Eclipse9916 Wrote:You don't get it. Your RE71Rs ARE faster than the old "R-comps" that are worth +6. There is a reason good R compounds such as A7/R7/R1/R1S are in the 12-22 point range and a A048/RA1/Pilot Cup are +6. The New street tires destroy the old r compounds. So no, no one is getting screwed, the tires are faster
Do people have times to prove this? If they are then I agree they should be just as high in points.
You aren't coming off as a dick, I just want to see how they proved this haha. I can agree if they are faster than they should have higher points.
Yes, looks like NASA is starting to get more stringent on their rules! It makes more sense though because someone could build a "cheater" engine that provides full power from 2000 or 3000rpm to redline instead of the normal peak power near redline.
Re: Project 2.Slow Mazda3 - D_Eclipse9916 - 12-16-2015
rherold9 Wrote:D_Eclipse9916 Wrote:You don't get it. Your RE71Rs ARE faster than the old "R-comps" that are worth +6. There is a reason good R compounds such as A7/R7/R1/R1S are in the 12-22 point range and a A048/RA1/Pilot Cup are +6. The New street tires destroy the old r compounds. So no, no one is getting screwed, the tires are faster
Do people have times to prove this? If they are then I agree they should be just as high in points.
You aren't coming off as a dick, I just want to see how they proved this haha. I can agree if they are faster than they should have higher points.
Yes, looks like NASA is starting to get more stringent on their rules!
Simple as looking to the autoxers. The RE71R and Rival S are worlds above the old tires. There are lots of tests to prove how fast they are. Even more testing has been done in the past year since stock classes moved to "street" and uses 200 treadwear tires. There is a reason nobody autoxes on pilot cups, and everyone uses the "bridgestones" (bfg/bridgestone).
Re: Project 2.Slow Mazda3 - rherold9 - 12-16-2015
D_Eclipse9916 Wrote:Simple as looking to the autoxers. The RE71R and Rival S are worlds above the old tires. There are lots of tests to prove how fast they are. Even more testing has been done in the past year since stock classes moved to "street" and uses 200 treadwear tires. There is a reason nobody autoxes on pilot cups, and everyone uses the "bridgestones" (bfg/bridgestone).
Well they couldn't use Pilot Cups or equivalent because they aren't 200 treadwear. I just want to see concrete lap times for both tires vs r compound tires on the same and day. Kinda like Tire Rack does for their testing.
Re: Project 2.Slow Mazda3 - D_Eclipse9916 - 12-16-2015
rherold9 Wrote:D_Eclipse9916 Wrote:Simple as looking to the autoxers. The RE71R and Rival S are worlds above the old tires. There are lots of tests to prove how fast they are. Even more testing has been done in the past year since stock classes moved to "street" and uses 200 treadwear tires. There is a reason nobody autoxes on pilot cups, and everyone uses the "bridgestones" (bfg/bridgestone).
Well they couldn't use Pilot Cups or equivalent because they aren't 200 treadwear. I just want to see concrete lap times for both tires vs r compound tires on the same and day. Kinda like Tire Rack does for their testing.
You will learn quickly that "concrete evidence" is unicorn farts. Even same day testing back to back has so many variances. Test yourself, and see what you come up with. Or do the "budget" thing and watch what the fast guys do who have the money to test. I watch Jonathan Lugod/Sam Strano/Nicholas Barbato/Mike Johnson and others to see which current "cream of the crop" tire is good for this year in terms of street tires.
General consensus (and correlates with my own experience), is the top tier 200 street tires always beat the pilot cups, and honestly were starting to edge in on Hoosier R6 territory (not quite there yet but close). I think an RE71R/Rival S would be the tire to have at only 6 points vs a Hoosier R6/R7. The BFG R1/R1S/A7 are better.
Or you can just keep on keeping on doing what you are doing and thinking "ITS UNFAIR TO BE MEEEEEEEE"
Re: Project 2.Slow Mazda3 - rherold9 - 12-16-2015
D_Eclipse9916 Wrote:You will learn quickly that "concrete evidence" is unicorn farts. Even same day testing back to back has so many variances. Test yourself, and see what you come up with. Or do the "budget" thing and watch what the fast guys do who have the money to test. I watch Jonathan Lugod/Sam Strano/Nicholas Barbato/Mike Johnson and others to see which current "cream of the crop" tire is good for this year in terms of street tires.
General consensus (and correlates with my own experience), is the top tier 200 street tires always beat the pilot cups, and honestly were starting to edge in on Hoosier R6 territory (not quite there yet but close). I think an RE71R/Rival S would be the tire to have at only 6 points vs a Hoosier R6/R7. The BFG R1/R1S/A7 are better.
Or you can just keep on keeping on doing what you are doing and thinking "ITS UNFAIR TO BE MEEEEEEEE"
Nope, I don't plan to stay TTF now for sure but it was one of the plans just in case. But I'd rather just go TTE with "slicks" and strip this bitch down as light as possible (new wheels are everything). I don't think it is unfair if it is that fast of a tire. Makes sense why my lap times improved so significantly with the new tires :lol:
Edit: wait I actually don't know now. With modification factor in, on my W/P, I'm sitting at 20.49 and the min for TTF is 19.5.... I'm 18.6 without modification factor of +1.8. Damnit.
Looks like I may be the only one running TTF. Hahaha. Unless I stroke the chief's schlong and allow me to boost (supercharger) or build cams.
Re: Project 2.Slow Mazda3 - rherold9 - 12-16-2015
And with that edit realization on my last post here is my current shit.
A7: +6 RE-71R
A10: +7 +30MM (245 from 215)
C4: +1 Intake
C22: +5 Full exhaust
E3: +3 Koni's
E5: +2 Eibach
E7: +2 Rear sway bar
E10: +1 Rear camber arms
F1: +2 Bigger brakes
Total: +29 so in TTE with 10 points to spare. Need -10 points to get back into TTF. My adjusted W/P is 20.49 if I get 2800 pounds with me in it and 150whp(optimistic power) lol.
Future planned points:
A7: +6 R-Compound or equivalent Rival S/RE-71R
A10: +1 +20MM (225 from 215 base)
C4: +1 Intake
C22: +5 Full exhaust
E3: +3 Koni's
E5: +2 Eibach
E10: +1 Rear camber arms
Total: +19 so puts me TTF. Adjusted W/P 20.49 if I get 2800 pounds with me in it and 150whp(optimistic power) lol. Will adjust spring rates and have dampers re-valved to compensate for stock sways. Removed OEM bigger brakes and rear sway bars. For wheels I either go with 17s probably 17x8 RPF1s that weigh 16 pounds or look for 15x8s (which they actually make for my car's 5x114.3 pattern)
Good? Bad? Ugly? Waste of time? :lol: