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Madison Motorsports
Project Hatch - Printable Version

+- Madison Motorsports (https://forum.mmsports.org)
+-- Forum: Technical (https://forum.mmsports.org/forumdisplay.php?fid=4)
+--- Forum: Member's Projects (https://forum.mmsports.org/forumdisplay.php?fid=12)
+--- Thread: Project Hatch (/showthread.php?tid=3782)

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Re: Project Hatch - navin - 10-09-2009

eff you mikey, drop down to group 3 so i can punt your ass.

Re: Project Hatch - Mike - 10-10-2009

fuckin vultures.

navin, only way you'd catch me is to use no brakes when coming into 1.

Re: Project Hatch - Mike - 11-02-2009

replaced the bad wheel bearing and found the other side needs one too. bleh. 20 minute job, tops, but i realized i work on this thing probably 5x more than i drive it. i located some seats, but i'll have to get up to york to pick them up... that sucks.

i also got a whole set of new shock mounts, which got rid of any and all clunking noises in the rear. i still have yet to put the fronts in, but they need it too. fuck buddy club and shock mounts that last 10k miles.

Re: Project Hatch - Mike - 11-06-2009

2nd wheel bearing replaced and she's inspected! noticed a weld on the shocks cracking... i may not have mentioned it before, but buddy club sucks.

Re: Project Hatch - Mike - 02-23-2010

Fuck Buddy Club. That clunking went away, but now I think it turned into a blown shock... just after I spent $240 on all new shock mounts, which I don't think will work with anything other than these shocks. FML.

Ordered some Koni Yellows and Eibach Sportlines. Easy button FTW. Just need to source some OEM shock mounts.

Looking forward to a comfy ride.

Re: Project Hatch - .RJ - 02-23-2010

No more track santa?

Re: Project Hatch - Mike - 02-23-2010

On ricer springs? No. I'm not shelling out $1k for an uncomfortable suspension setup that works on track only to use it once a year.

Re: Project Hatch - Apoc - 02-23-2010

So does that mean you aren't tracking the comfy setup? Sorry, I'm slow.

Re: Project Hatch - Mike - 02-23-2010

Yes, it's more of a cosmetic setup. Spring rates are 350/275, which coupled with the ride height, would mean lots of bad things.

If I ever want to track again, renting a car is likely the way to go. No reason to have a street car that isn't drivable because I might go to the track every year or two.

Re: Project Hatch - Mike - 03-31-2010

So it definitely had a blown shock. Put on some Koni Sports (yellows) and some Eibach Sportlines... It's like a Cadillac. I would totally rock this thing until the end of time if chicks didn't refuse to ride in it Tongue

Re: Project Hatch - Mike - 06-07-2010

I think I've found why my FR was clunking...

[Image: 30132_402606304395_772254395_4007328_7252223_n.jpg]

Re: Project Hatch - Mike - 06-08-2010

Didn't really care to get a replacement since it's just another thing to deal with selling, but Eibach is sending me a new pair no questions asked... Oddly, they didn't want to take a closer look at the failure. Oh wells...

In other news, I spent more time getting a single front shock in (I hate spring compressors and refuse to use them) than it's ever taken me to do all four... 4.5 hours. Long springs suck.

One more front shock to replace, then I start dealing with the interior.

Re: Project Hatch - JustinG - 06-30-2011

So im bringing this bitch back to life.....

Pending the apocalypse im picking up this pile on Sunday.

My overall goal is to have this as a track/autoX whore and hopefully get approved to do TT by end of next season. At some point maybe instructing. I think getting into TT by end of next season is really aggressive and doubtful to happen, but its a goal. Mostly dependent on how quickly I pickup on things (obviously), and how many events im able to do, but we shall see.

Plans:

1- Dyno and Weight, car is NASA-X G base, and with the suspension mods I thinks its around +12 if the mods list is accurate, but I need to know my Dyno # and official weight to figure out what base class the engine swap will put me in.

2- Do everything Mikey was too lazy to do when he ownd the car, TBD.

3- Install Driver and Passenger Sparco Evo 2 Pluses, sell Evo thats in the car to Don Juan (DJ)

4- Keeping the Rotas on the car with A/S but, I gotta buy some RIMMMMZZZZZZ and Tires for Auto-X/Track, im pretty much settled on the TR Motorsports C1s in 15x7 +42 12.8lbs, because A: they are $89 per wheel, and B: they are $89 a god damn wheel!!!!.
[Image: trm_c1_ltgry_ci3_l.jpg]

16s on a white hatch, obviosuly diff body style but you get the idea.
[Image: 179282_1266214906503_1563690389_30888117_3055410_n.jpg]

I really really like the 6ULs but I dont really see the point in paying $40 more per wheel.

My only concerns are, can I eventually run 225 Hoo Hoos on this wheel and offset without having to do any crazy camber or alot of fender rolling? Should I go 15x8? If so what offset would work?

My research says yes I can but I would like other peoples input. Not much help from Honda-Tech, everyone is all about HERRAFRUSH and MAD TYTE STANCE YO. So suggestions on informative forums would be nice as well.

Tires im going with Star Specs in 205/50/15, because they are the next best thing to the unobtanium that are RS-3s. They also have a $80 rebate at Tirerack so that makes them under $100 per tire.

5- Drive the living piss out of the car!!! Mostly focusing on Auto-X to get used to the car, and hopefully popping my track cherry in November.

1-5 will happen pretty instantly, with the money obtained from selling the GSX.

Things im thinking about planning/doing/researching:

Buy Trailer
Brake Ducts??? Needed???
Oil Cooler??? This ive seen is a 50% dont think its needed & 50% think its good cheap insurance
Pro Sport Warning: Oil Pressure/Oil Temp/Water Temp Gauges
CF Hood? dependent on weight.

Other than that im playing it by ear and just going to change the car to meet my needs as problems/thoughts arise.


WHAT I STARTED WITH

Engine:
B18B1 w/ 120k miles w/ 123hp/118tq to wheels at dyno
ITR trans w/ 10k miles. Redline fluid in it.
Exedy organic clutch has 7k on it.
Exedy lightweight flywheel has 7k on it.
Timing belt and water pump have 35k miles on them.
Koyo full-length aluminum radiator w/ "bling" aluminum lower mounts, and ghetto-fab upper mounts.
Top Fuel "whale penis" intake w/ K&N cone filter.
2.5" mandrel bent exhaust w/ 20" resonator to b-pipe, ghetto b-pipe, 2.5" in/out magnaflow oval
Stock header

Chassis:
~2150lbs.
Koni Sports (yellow) and Eibach SportlinesSkunk2 front adjustable [camber] front a-arms.
Fastbrakes 11" front brake kit w/ Goodridge stainless steel lines.
Integra rear disc brakes.
1991 Civic EX sedan 15/16" master cylinder (best option w/ this setup), with very few miles.
Function 7 rear lower control arms (bling!).

Interior:
ITR shift knob.
Sparco Evo driver
Mugen pedal covers
Broadway mirror.
Autopower Race rollbar (bolted).
Red 5-point harnesses for driver and passenger.
Momo leather steering wheel [uninstalled (for inspection)].

Exterior:
CF duckbill spoiler in bad shape.
Body in pretty good shape:
Benen front and rear tow hooks (bling!).

Wheels/tires:
Rota Group N, 15x7 w/ Falken Ziex 912 tires w/ lots of tread.

Re: Project Hatch - xvxax - 06-30-2011

I know we've joked around about 9s,but seriously just buy 8s now for a little more money. There are 0 disadvantages to running a little stretch on track wheels, and I think 205s are like 8" wide on the tread anyway so you might be almost pinching on 7s. I think GRM did a test and went faster on a narrower tire on a wider wheel too (on street tires). Thats why Miata guys run 225s and 9s on the 6ULs. So yeah, if its a small difference in price man up and do 8s if you can fit them, and move on to 225s later or whatnot. If it's a big difference in price, then spend your money somewhere else and get 8s when you want to do 225s.

Also, another piece of advice you didn't ask for. Don't mess around with this thing too much. Get wheels/tires, shake it down on the street or an RIR autocross, then drive the crap out of it. It's been a long time since you've driven, and working on cars without any benefits sucks. September Summit?

Re: Project Hatch - PDenbigh - 06-30-2011

Congrats!

I suggest that you skip the hood adn ducts but go with the cooler and gauges. Tires don't matter, just drive it. I drove two seasons on Fuzion ZRi's and had a blast and learned a lot. Really sticky tires will cover up your mistakes anyhow.

Good luck going from 0-TT in one season. It's going to take a lot of track time to be safe out there in TT with open passing. Not saying you can't do it, but it'll require doing all NASA events and all Trackdaze events, in my opinion. Or maybe I'm just a slow learner :-).

Re: Project Hatch - JustinG - 06-30-2011

PDenbigh Wrote:Good luck going from 0-TT in one season. It's going to take a lot of track time to be safe out there in TT with open passing. Not saying you can't do it, but it'll require doing all NASA events and all Trackdaze events, in my opinion. Or maybe I'm just a slow learner :-).

Yea I hope to do a descent amount of both, NASA/TrackDaze but it all depends on the funds. Realistic expectations would prob be more like HPDE 3 by maybe hyperfest 2012?????

Re: Project Hatch - V1GiLaNtE - 06-30-2011

^WIN Let me know when you need a hand wrenching :thumbup:

Re: Project Hatch - kcook - 06-30-2011

[Image: 1znuagh.gif]

Re: Project Hatch - D_Eclipse9916 - 06-30-2011

JustinG Wrote:
PDenbigh Wrote:Good luck going from 0-TT in one season. It's going to take a lot of track time to be safe out there in TT with open passing. Not saying you can't do it, but it'll require doing all NASA events and all Trackdaze events, in my opinion. Or maybe I'm just a slow learner :-).

Yea I hope to do a descent amount of both, NASA/TrackDaze but it all depends on the funds. Realistic expectations would prob be more like HPDE 3 by maybe hyperfest 2012?????


Or you could do it may way, progression from HPDE to HPDE 3 took 6 years :lol:

Then again, I was happy staying in HPDE 2 for years and refused to go to 3, it was fun being big fish in the pond.
HPDE 1 to 2 (with your experience) probably one weekend
HPDE 2 to 3 (with your experience) 4-8 weekends.

I would say your looking at a Minimum of 5 weekends to be safe and confident in a car. And then your required I beleive 2-3 weekends of at least HPDE 3 before you can apply for your time trial license.

So a year? Attainable, but that means probably 7-11 events at least. Any less than 7 events, I personally wouldnt want somebody with that little experience on track with me side by side coming down in the chute.

PS- TT is fun, but dont rush it, just more money, and HPDE is awesome. I would say first go for your instructors license over TT so you can do "free" track time :thumbup:

Re: Project Hatch - JustinG - 06-30-2011

any input on the wheel question guys?

I can get the 15x7.5 in same offset for $10 more????

15x8s dont come in the offset i need unless i go with the 6UL which IMO is ore than i want to spend.