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Project 1990 Eagle Talon TSI - Printable Version +- Madison Motorsports (https://forum.mmsports.org) +-- Forum: Technical (https://forum.mmsports.org/forumdisplay.php?fid=4) +--- Forum: Member's Projects (https://forum.mmsports.org/forumdisplay.php?fid=12) +--- Thread: Project 1990 Eagle Talon TSI (/showthread.php?tid=6957) |
- Dave - 02-15-2008 I'm assuming that this is going to be your track bitch since you're going after power and handling as your upgrades? After driving mine at an autocross, all I have to say is good luck. Mine felt like an overweight pig/snow plow :-). I AM NOT HATING!!! It was still fun as shit and retarded fast, but needs monster brakes if you intend on doing all this work and driving it on track. It really is a heffer and for the power you can get so easily, the stock brakes are not even close to adequate. - ViPER1313 - 02-15-2008 As I see it, it can't handle worse than an SHO, so GREAT SUCCESS! - Dave - 02-15-2008 Haha, good point. :-) - WRXtranceformed - 02-15-2008 Would make a great dragstrip car with some suspension / gearbox / power upgrades and some weight reduction!!
- D_Eclipse9916 - 02-15-2008 The car's definitely need some work from factory, especially your year which honestly came with junk brakes. You could do later year AWD brake conversion and be fine for 99% of braking. Unless you plan on doing time trials or something like that, you wont need too nice of a setup. Also the 1g suspension is a macpherson strut which was made more for rallying as its superior advantage of shock travel. The 2g was the attempt for road racing with its double wishbone multi-link. Main thing, lose weight! Proper suspension setup and there wont really be understeer and focus on reliability. Yeah very little money and you can have more horsepower than 99% of the cars out there, but if you cant finish a weekend, whats the point. Ive actually had very little issues with the car and were all really caused by me. Once at Summit my driveshaft bolts got a little loose (I forgot to torque down the bolts) and at VIR when my Valve Cover cracked when installing cams and caused all sorts of oil everywhere. Aside from that and boiling my brake fluid when I came in and just sat the car after a session its not had any issues of breaking anything. PS there have been some very succesful dsms, but it does take more than just buying a corvette and throwing slicks on. 1g dsm competing in super unlimited (yes this includes fully prepped ferraris, but its really the only class dsms can compete in in terms of the rulebook as we are penalized for AWD but dont get points back like the evos and stis do for 4 doors (huge handicap for us). He won 2 SU champsionships in a row and that was on one engine that lasted 2 seasons of racing, pretty good for any engine. <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/road-course-autocross/205641-dsmtuners-sponsored-greg-collier-wins-2005-championship.html">http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/road-co ... nship.html</a><!-- m --> - Gs dewd - 02-20-2008 For exhaust do what I did with my 1g . 3" custom with a flowmaster series 40 and a daul outlet tip. Looks close to stock and isn't to loud but flows good. - ViPER1313 - 02-20-2008 OK, failed inspection for: (Let shop take care of because I am lazy) -Power steering pump leak (nearly emptied the system down to JMU) -Crack in windshield -Brake booster leak -Dented rims (swap w/ Goodspeed's rims) (I will take care of) -Missing rear seats / belts -Missing foglight -Front CV Joints -Reverse lights non-operational -Front brake pads All of which are legit, I love finding decent mechanics. SHO sold last night so I have some cash and time to focus on this car now. - Mike - 02-20-2008 i love that it is ok for a car to not have foglights, but if it does have them, they both must work. - HAULN-SS - 02-20-2008 man, that's a ridiculous inspection. I've never had any mechanic be that thorough on inspection - Mike - 02-20-2008 i think they're extra thorough in md because you only get one done when you first buy the car. - ViPER1313 - 02-20-2008 Yeah, they have a crazy long checklist of things they have to go over, and cops randomly inspect mechanics shops, etc. If you get caught passing cars that don't meet the requirements it can ruin your business, so most mechanics fail things if they even begin to show wear. I love this mechanic though, real reasonable labor rates and he doesn't try and screw you over on things that don't need to be done. He let the front rotors slide even though they really do need to be replaced, the huge clunk in the front suspension go, etc. His list of failed items matched the list I had in my head before I brought it in, did when I brought him my SHO too. - l33t Mr2 - 02-21-2008 what is the bolt pattern and offset for a 1990 talon? - ViPER1313 - 02-21-2008 114.3x5 - not 100% sure on the offset. Wheels I got are +35 - DJ said they should be alright. - D_Eclipse9916 - 02-21-2008 stock offset is 45 on a 16x6.5. with a 16x7.5 a 35 will be flush or stick out a little bit or so as I told you they might stick out a little bit. I run a 7.5 and mine is a higher offset and sticks in...its fine but hell why not have the extra track width. - ViPER1313 - 02-23-2008 Car is out of shop, PS Pump + BB + windshield fixed. Wheels look good - very mild fender poke but tires are small for rims. No rub issues yet. If they rub, I need to roll the fenders 8) I am looking at making this car a street / track hor. Build plan is shaping up along the lines of: -850 Injectors -DSM Link -Walbaro 255 HP pump -Aeromotive FPR -Aluminum radiator (Ebay unit OK?) -Ported 2g or Evo III exhaust manifold from DJ -AVEC-R Electronic Boost Controller -FMIC (need to weigh pros + cons of custom vs. Ebay vs. SBR setup) -DP + Cat back exhaust. Recommendations? I want something that flows well but is quiet - I don't want to get pulled over ever 3 minutes. I love the look of the sideways fart cannon but don't want the noise. 3" or better. -3.5in GM MAF + MAF Translator -ARP Head studs (OK to replace without removing HG?) -Clutch (ACT 2600 or is more needed for 350-400whp?) -Cams (272s are looking nice - best brand?) -Turbo (Mitsibishi 20g vs FP Green?) - what is mo better? -Suspension (Coilover vs. Koni vs. KYB AGX shocks is a consideration, Eibach Pro Kit) Should net me 350whp or so reliably, which is the goal. Am I missing anything (DJ) ? - Mike - 02-23-2008 brakes? - Evan - 02-23-2008 dont be silly Mike - ViPER1313 - 02-23-2008 Actually forgot to list that - it's going to be the 1st serious modification I do. I'm probably going to try the 93 AWD front brakes w/ HP+ pads to start with, see how they work and go from there. Installed a new thermostat / radiator cap today - the old thermostat was broken in 1/2 when I took it out. Also installed a boost gauge - car is running 10-11 PSI depending on what gear I'm in. - D_Eclipse9916 - 02-24-2008 Sounds fine. Ebay FMIC is fine 2600 will hold the power your looking at making FP green or 20g...why not a 50 trim at the power your looking at?? No need to go any bigger than a 50 trim, and itll have better spool than the turbos your looking at. Ebay radiator is fine, just depends on which one. Brian Crower cams are insanely awesome for the money. The head studs you can do one by one, not as safe as taking the head off and doing them but it works 99% of the time...so I would suggest doing it before the timing belt, so just in case you blow the headgasket you dont hav eto do the timing belt job twice... - ViPER1313 - 03-07-2008 New axles are in, fog-light is out, spark plugs are changed. Managed to make a mess of that axle job - chipped the trans case, broke 1 axle seal and banged the shit out of the 1/2 shaft bearing. But the axles are new :roll: My hands are still black from the old axle grease. |