| The following warnings occurred: | |||||||||||||||
Warning [2] Undefined property: MyLanguage::$archive_pages - Line: 2 - File: printthread.php(287) : eval()'d code PHP 8.2.30 (Linux)
|
![]() |
|
JDM parts overnight from Japan - Printable Version +- Madison Motorsports (https://forum.mmsports.org) +-- Forum: Madison Motorsports (https://forum.mmsports.org/forumdisplay.php?fid=3) +--- Forum: Lounge (https://forum.mmsports.org/forumdisplay.php?fid=6) +--- Thread: JDM parts overnight from Japan (/showthread.php?tid=34) |
- ScottyB - 02-17-2004 here is an excellent article that goes over intake restriction and how to deal with it (among other cool articles) <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0629">http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0629</a><!-- m --> - JackoliciousLegs - 02-18-2004 Did you port your own wastegate? If so, would you help me do mine when it gets warmer? I'd like to be able to boost in 4th and 5th without letting off because of the damn boost creep. - KPWSerpiente - 02-18-2004 Read the article and it was pretty interesting. But basically the only things left stock in the intake tract from the filter to the throttlebody are the MAF and the accordian intake pipe into the compressor of the turbo. I'm thinking of hacking the maf tomorrow (removing some of the honeycombs) and basically just checking to make sure the rest of the piping isn't leaking. I have plans for replacing the intake pipe with a dejon unit once I can afford it. And yes, DSMLink is amazing hardware. It'll allow me to make the airflow corrections I need for when I remove the honeycombs so I won't have any idling problems or other bad byproducts. I actually posted up my concerns about the airflow and was told that 28 lbs/min sounds about right for such a low boost to be running (17 lbs). So I'll be turning up the boost soon. -T *Edit You put your post up while I was typing this Jack, All of my portwork was done by slowboy racing. I've tried my hand at porting with a die grinder but we didn't have the proper bits (metal carbide ones) so it was taking forever to do very little work. I don't think it would have been too dificult with the right equipement. What I understand you to mean is that you want more room for air to flow around the turbine, and if so I can lend a hand but as I said I've never done any true port work. -T - BLINGMW - 02-18-2004 that site's got some nice looking articles... anyone got a subcription? :wink: That guy was a bit long winded, focusing a bit too much on the jokes, (I found myself skipping over entire paragraphs... <monthypython>GET ON WITH IT!</montypython>) but there was some good content hidden in there. - KPWSerpiente - 03-31-2004 I thought I would dredge this back up in light of a few changes here in DSMville. My dejontool.com dual stage boost controller came in today. It actually flips betwen stock and whatever higher than stock pressure I set it at with the flip of a switch, so some may not consider it a true dual stage. I also traded my friend Karen a stock fuel pump for a center tail section painted black to match the car. She's still putting her car back to stock before selling it so it worked out well both ways. I also plan on sealing up all intercooler and intake piping with rtv silicone sealant or something similar and have ordered the proper 2.5 to 2.25 coupling to replace the ghetto fab I had been using. All of this will hopefully rid me of the boost and intake leaks the car is experiencing now. -T - .RJ - 03-31-2004 KPWSerpiente Wrote:I also plan on sealing up all intercooler and intake piping with rtv silicone sealant or something similar Why not use the proper couplings and pipe? Not worth gerneding the motor.... - KPWSerpiente - 03-31-2004 Huh? I'll be doing everything the same with the addition of some sealant. The same way some people use the proper gaskets, rings and bolts, but still put a little sealant around the corners of their valvecover. -T - Dave - 03-31-2004 I'm not really sure how yours looks, but something I did for my hardpipes was put a lip onto the ends of the piping. Thus, when you clamp down the coupling over the end, it makes a beeeeyoooootiful seal and almost zero chance of it coming off. Might be worth giving it a shot. - .RJ - 03-31-2004 KPWSerpiente Wrote:The same way some people use the proper gaskets, rings and bolts, but still put a little sealant around the corners of their valvecover. Adding gasket sealant (RTV, Hondabond, whatever) to a surface that already is sealed with a gasket will cause a leak. One or the other. - KPWSerpiente - 03-31-2004 Quote:Adding gasket sealant (RTV, Hondabond, whatever) to a surface that already is sealed with a gasket will cause a leak. I have yet to have a problem using liquid sealant and either a oem, aftermarket, or home made gasket in conjuction with one another. Like I already said, it is a common practice to use "Right Stuff" liquid gasket or something similar with the valvecover gasket. How can a liquid that fills in the cracks or any place where a perfect seal is not made then hardens to create a seal, hurt the seal itself? That doesn't make any sense. And, yes, Dave all of the pipes have beaded lips. I'm not worried about them blowing. I'm worried about them leaking air and the goal is to prevent that from happening. -T - .RJ - 03-31-2004 KPWSerpiente Wrote:How can a liquid that fills in the cracks or any place where a perfect seal is not made then hardens to create a seal, hurt the seal itself? That doesn't make any sense. Because it prevents the gasket from compressing and doing its job properly. |