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Madison Motorsports
Project Hatch - Printable Version

+- Madison Motorsports (https://forum.mmsports.org)
+-- Forum: Technical (https://forum.mmsports.org/forumdisplay.php?fid=4)
+--- Forum: Member's Projects (https://forum.mmsports.org/forumdisplay.php?fid=12)
+--- Thread: Project Hatch (/showthread.php?tid=3782)



- Maengelito - 03-20-2009

Mike Wrote:
Kaan Wrote:Plus i have some JDM hat i was supposed to give you :-P

that would kick ass. with that shit we could be done in minutes. you can keep the circus hat as payment Tongue

You left that hat at Summit like 2 years ago, I gave it to Kaan to give to you since you stole it from some race winner at Laguna, I think. Damn, you guys are a lazy bunch up there in Nova.

Mike Wrote:
RJ Wrote:You will need some sort of spacer between the endlink and the LCA or else the spherical will bind.

Ya, I know the 8.8 is good enough for the application, but it's not good enough for the rust resistance Tongue What kind of spacer are we talking? A pic would be excellent.

Here's a pic of Mazda Motorsports' endlinks:
[Image: SDC10117.jpg]
Those 4 little metal rings in the left bag of the picture are the spacers.


- Kaan - 03-20-2009

Maengelito Wrote:You left that hat at Summit like 2 years ago, I gave it to Kaan to give to you since you stole it from some race winner at Laguna, I think. Damn, you guys are a lazy bunch up there in Nova.

screw that, he lives inside the beltway!


- Mike - 03-20-2009

oh... those will be much easier to source.


- Mike - 03-29-2009

Caliper done. Found my other front caliper has a rounded bleeder so I can't flush the fluid as I was hoping. Oh well. Guess I'll add pulling that sucker out to my to-do list.

Drilling and extracting the torn bolt in the LCA for the endlink was a giant fail. Simply not gonna happen. Will pick up some Function 7s when I get around to it. I don't care for them aesthetically, but they're one of two companies who retain the right geometry for everything including the endlink mount.

Done Today
----------------
Replace FR caliper
Drill endlink bolt out of LCA [FAIL]

To Do
-------
Pull and replace FL caliper bleeder screw
Buy Function 7 LCAs
Replace Skunk2 UCA bolts (M6x1.0 socket cap)
Remount little HID control box
Get track tires mounted
Clean rear hatch area
Sand rear hatch area
Truck bed liner rear hatch area
Replace valve cover gasket
Replace PCV valve
Install header
Get b-pipe replaced with proper sized tubing
Reinstall hatch glass piston
Install fluidyne full length radiator (requires mount fabrication)
Install civic VX rear "splitter"
Install stock belt mount for passenger side (for street use)
Replace blue glovebox w/ black
Wash
Wax
Cruise for hoes


- Mike - 04-11-2009

Done Today
--------------
Replace PCV Valve
Put the damn car back on the ground
Put battery on charger

To Do Tomorrow
-------------------
Drive it! It's been since Feb. 25th!

To Do
-------
Locate and buy endlink spacers
Pull and replace FL caliper bleeder screw
Buy Function 7 LCAs
Replace Skunk2 UCA bolts (M6x1.0 socket cap)
Remount little HID control box
Get track tires mounted
Clean rear hatch area
Sand rear hatch area
Truck bed liner rear hatch area
Replace valve cover gasket
Replace PCV valve
Install header
Get b-pipe replaced with proper sized tubing
Reinstall hatch glass piston
Install fluidyne full length radiator (requires mount fabrication)
Install civic VX rear "splitter"
Install stock belt mount for passenger side (for street use)
Replace blue glovebox w/ black
Wash
Wax
Cruise for hoes


- Maengelito - 04-11-2009

Mike Wrote:Done Today
--------------
Replace PCV Valve

To Do
-------
Replace PCV valve

I've done the PCV valve on the LS motor, that takes like 45 seconds with a pair of pliers. Congratulations on all your success.


- Mike - 04-11-2009

Thanks. Putting the suspension back on was the larger task.


- Mike - 04-13-2009

So the f'ing clunking noise has shifted sides. I'm 100% certain I didn't swap the sides of the shocks. The side that WAS clunking had the upper mount replaced. The new one feels so much better than the old one. Can a spherical upper mount go bad/cause a clunking noise?

I'm definitely replacing the LCAs [to mount the swaybar] so that'll eliminate them from the equation... Do I just go ahead and order up another new upper mount as well? Do I bother swapping the new upper mount between sides?


- Andy - 04-13-2009

Mike Wrote:Can a spherical upper mount go bad/cause a clunking noise?

yes. There shouldn't be any play in the spherical bearing seat.


- Mike - 04-13-2009

there's no play in the seat, but the old ones are a lot easier to move by hand than the new ones.


- Mike - 06-04-2009

still haven't dug in to that potentially bad shock mount, but whatever it is is BAD. nasty noise. i should get around to that.

rear right caliper has decided to seize up. might just need some grease on the pins, but i swear i just did that.

radiator now has a nice little crack. really need to get that koyo full length in there soon.

really starting to hate this pile.


Re: Project Hatch - Mike - 07-15-2009

radiator replaced, fabbed up a mount w/ a vice and sledge.
threw in a stock shock mount on the clunking side and there's no more clunking. that = bad shock mount... or now that i start really thinking about it, chance i didn't preload properly? noticed when i preloaded this time the shaft in-car lengthened... maybe w/o preload it was doing that and then snapping back down rather than the shock compressing over bumps? hard to explain and maybe i'm off my rocker, but it makes a little sense in my head.


Re: Project Hatch - .RJ - 07-15-2009

If the clunking you heard before was the spring rattling around as the car went over bumps, then it could make sense, but usually there's enough weight over the spring to keep it compressed unless you go over pretty large bumps.


Re: Project Hatch - Mike - 07-15-2009

nono, not the spring. i was thinking "what stops the shock shaft from traveling upward into the cabin of the car?"


Re: Project Hatch - .RJ - 07-15-2009

Shaft in car... take a picture?


Re: Project Hatch - Mike - 07-15-2009

Tongue

the part that protrudes from the top hat that you thread the nut on... oh man... it just gets worse.


Re: Project Hatch - .RJ - 07-15-2009

That should be the same (the amount of shaft penetrating into your hatch) no matter what you do with the spring.


Re: Project Hatch - Mike - 07-15-2009

when i preloaded (placed jack under lca), the amount of it in-car lengthened... made little sense to me, but my mind is simple and i couldn't grasp the whole situation too well. i think it means my shocks may be incompatible w/ the stock mount or i forgot to use one of those big gold washers on the shaft?


Re: Project Hatch - HAULN-SS - 07-15-2009

Sounds like you have something going wrong. If you hit a sweet jump, you might end up with a shaft through your hood


Re: Project Hatch - .RJ - 07-15-2009

Mike Wrote:i forgot to use one of those big gold washers on the shaft?

Ding. Should have one on top and one on bottom.

If you dont do this it will pull through the mount. I've done it...