The following warnings occurred:
Warning [2] Undefined property: MyLanguage::$archive_pages - Line: 2 - File: printthread.php(287) : eval()'d code PHP 8.2.30 (Linux)
File Line Function
/inc/class_error.php 153 errorHandler->error
/printthread.php(287) : eval()'d code 2 errorHandler->error_callback
/printthread.php 287 eval
/printthread.php 117 printthread_multipage



Madison Motorsports
Project Hatch - Printable Version

+- Madison Motorsports (https://forum.mmsports.org)
+-- Forum: Technical (https://forum.mmsports.org/forumdisplay.php?fid=4)
+--- Forum: Member's Projects (https://forum.mmsports.org/forumdisplay.php?fid=12)
+--- Thread: Project Hatch (/showthread.php?tid=3782)



- Maengelito - 03-06-2009

oops, reading owns me, I just saw the thread pitch and size and assumed it was a bolt.


- Mike - 03-11-2009

so i ended up ordering a new mount from butty club yesterday. then this morning fischer hardware gets back to me saying they actually do have a box of 25 of the fuckers for $7.50 and goes on to tell me why they're so expensive.. pfft! .30 apiece? pfft!

anyway, i haven't called them back to make sure it's the right thing, but based on my google searching (lack of ANY results that these even exist anywhere in the world), there's no way some hardware store in springfield has the thing i'm looking for.


- Mike - 03-17-2009

I do much better with detailed to-do lists...

Done Tonight
---------------
Pulled front shocks
Cleaned front shocks
Put 700lb/in springs in front
Installed front shocks

To Do
-------
Replace Skunk2 UCA bolts (M6x1.0 socket cap)
Replace FL caliper
Install ASR rear sway support
Install ASR rear sway
Put 600lb/in springs on rear shocks
Install rear shocks
Remount little HID control box
Get track tires mounted
Clean rear hatch area
Sand rear hatch area
Truck bed liner rear hatch area
Replace valve cover gasket
Replace PCV valve
Install header
Get b-pipe replaced with proper sized tubing
Reinstall hatch glass piston
Install fluidyne full length radiator (requires mount fabrication)
Install civic VX rear "splitter"
Install stock belt mount for passenger side (for street use)
Replace blue glovebox w/ black
Wash
Wax
Cruise for hoes


- Maengelito - 03-18-2009

Mike Wrote:Posted: Fri Feb 01, 2008 6:44 pm
want to do: ... replace skunk2 camber bolts, new exhaust, install header (dcsports 4-2-1), buy/install intake manifold (blox), rear sway bar, ... line-x the trunk.

Mike Wrote:I do much better with detailed to-do lists...
To Do
-------
Replace Skunk2 UCA bolts (M6x1.0 socket cap)
Replace FL caliper
Install ASR rear sway support
Install ASR rear sway
Put 600lb/in springs on rear shocks
Install rear shocks
Remount little HID control box
Get track tires mounted
Clean rear hatch area
Sand rear hatch area
Truck bed liner rear hatch area
Replace valve cover gasket
Replace PCV valve
Install header
Get b-pipe replaced with proper sized tubing
Reinstall hatch glass piston
Install fluidyne full length radiator (requires mount fabrication)
Install civic VX rear "splitter"
Install stock belt mount for passenger side (for street use)
Replace blue glovebox w/ black
Wash
Wax
Cruise for hoes

much better with to-do lists


- Mike - 03-18-2009

I didn't go to the track last year... working on the car wasn't too high a priority.


- Mike - 03-19-2009

progress! progress! took way longer than it should have. installing that swaybar kit by yourself is kind of a bitch. luckily, the swaybar fits!

while i was at it, i ripped off a nut that i had stripped oh so long ago on my lower shock mount and replaced it... could use a spot weld and it'll be good as new. for now, just need to remember not to lose it when i pull the shocks out.

then i went to do the final item... bolt up the endlinks. problem... my LCAs have seen many many miles without a bolt in that hole. it's rusted like a mofo. i didn't have the bolt for it anyway, but found two in my spares. it's just a regular old bolt that does that job... yes? no? anyway... it was a grade 8 (said 8.8 on it... i think that means it sucks?)... it didn't like all that rust and my breaker bar... it got broked. no big deal, just gotta drill it out, but i'm thinking i might as well just get some aftermarket LCAs since i'm pretty certain my bushings are due soon or now AND the f'ing holes are still gonna be rusted to shit. decisions, decisions.

i also discovered that the painting of the rear hatch is gonna be more of a pita than i thought. apparently the paint stripper i used last year continued to work some magic... all the paint back there is flaking up... not gonna be good to paint over. that project may never get done...

at least the car can come off the jackstands again if it needs to... going to replace the caliper this weekend and maybe figure out the endlink situation... then she's back in business!

Done Tonight
----------------
Install ASR rear sway support
Install ASR rear sway
Put 600lb/in springs on rear shocks
Install rear shocks

To Do
-------
Drill out endlink mounting hole / consider getting aftermarket LCAs
Replace Skunk2 UCA bolts (M6x1.0 socket cap)
Replace FL caliper
Remount little HID control box
Get track tires mounted
Clean rear hatch area
Sand rear hatch area
Truck bed liner rear hatch area
Replace valve cover gasket
Replace PCV valve
Install header
Get b-pipe replaced with proper sized tubing
Reinstall hatch glass piston
Install fluidyne full length radiator (requires mount fabrication)
Install civic VX rear "splitter"
Install stock belt mount for passenger side (for street use)
Replace blue glovebox w/ black
Wash
Wax
Cruise for hoes


- kcook - 03-20-2009

what event are you shooting for? hyperfest Big Grin?


- Mike - 03-20-2009

april 25-26 at summit. once i get the endlinks worked out, i'm ready to roll. everything else is optional. i should probably do the radiator too... fabbing mounts might be a bitch.

[assuming my shock isn't actually blown... that was the entire reason i tore the car apart recently]


- Mike - 03-20-2009

anybody have an answer on what type of bolt i should be using to attach the endlinks to the lca? is it just a regular one? any washers? it's a spherical endlink.


- Kaan - 03-20-2009

Mike Wrote:. fabbing mounts might be a bitch.

if you want, come over to the oakton house, i have some flat metal laying around. Drill press, etc. we should be able to get something working for you. Plus i have some JDM hat i was supposed to give you :-P


- .RJ - 03-20-2009

Mike Wrote:anybody have an answer on what type of bolt i should be using to attach the endlinks to the lca? is it just a regular one? any washers? it's a spherical endlink.

8.8 is fine. Its not heavily loaded. 10.8 is better, if you want I have boxes of OEM hardware, you can come look through them.

You will need some sort of spacer between the endlink and the LCA or else the spherical will bind.


- Mike - 03-20-2009

Kaan Wrote:
Mike Wrote:. fabbing mounts might be a bitch.

if you want, come over to the oakton house, i have some flat metal laying around. Drill press, etc. we should be able to get something working for you. Plus i have some JDM hat i was supposed to give you :-P

that would kick ass. with that shit we could be done in minutes. you can keep the circus hat as payment Tongue you could also tack weld that nut i mentioned up there too. maybe i'll even bring beer and dinner for that one!

RJ Wrote:8.8 is fine. Its not heavily loaded. 10.8 is better, if you want I have boxes of OEM hardware, you can come look through them.

You will need some sort of spacer between the endlink and the LCA or else the spherical will bind.

Ya, I know the 8.8 is good enough for the application, but it's not good enough for the rust resistance Tongue What kind of spacer are we talking? A pic would be excellent.


- .RJ - 03-20-2009

[Image: P1011592.jpg]


- Mike - 03-20-2009

ooh, yeah, need to find some of those. where in the hell do i look? i bet they were in that baggy of parts the guy never sent me.


- .RJ - 03-20-2009

mcmaster probably has them, there's a section for spherical end links


- Kaan - 03-20-2009

ROFL, multi colored JDM trucker hats arent my style. And the welder at the house has to have 220... we'd never get the hatch into the laundry room.


- Mike - 03-20-2009

Kaan Wrote:And the welder at the house has to have 220... we'd never get the hatch into the laundry room.

the lower mount spins right off Smile


- Kaan - 03-20-2009

its not aluminum or anything... its just one of the roommates flux core rig.


- Mike - 03-20-2009

the lower mount is steel. win!

i'll be in touch... i'm likely not going to want to work on the car next week (tired of it) or the week after (week before big race). so sometime in april.


- Mike - 03-20-2009

.RJ Wrote:mcmaster probably has them, there's a section for spherical end links

nope.