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+-- Forum: Technical (https://forum.mmsports.org/forumdisplay.php?fid=4)
+--- Forum: Member's Projects (https://forum.mmsports.org/forumdisplay.php?fid=12)
+--- Thread: Project: Haters Gon Hate (/showthread.php?tid=9365)
Re: Project: Haters Gon Hate - JPolen01 - 04-21-2011
Quote:Also, I have a set of MTX 5500 subs in a Sledge Hammer box and a MTX Elite 600w mono block I am looking to sell. They might work well for this car, I see you want 12's but these 10's HAMMER. I have a Pioneer Premier deck with a XM box as well and I could work you a package deal including installation if you are interested. PM me.
Would you mind linking me to the subs and amp if you can find them online? I looked briefly on the MTX website and didn't see anything. I might be interested depending on price as I am pretty deep in on this project already. I have had 2 other systems in this car, so I am pretty familiar with wiring. My first setup was a sony xplode headunit with a 1800w alpine and amp and a 15inch kicker solobaric. It was unbearably loud, but when I was 16 it was the coolest. I ditched that because I decided the sound of the 15 was to sloppy for my liking. I upgraded to a kenwood flip out dvd headunit and 2 12inch alpine type r subs. They were incredibly loud and crisp. I sold them when my amp blew, but I wish I would have kept them.
Re: Project: Haters Gon Hate - Jeff - 04-21-2011
This setup is a bit old. Maybe 3 years now. It has been in storage for about two years. The amp is premium. It is a 600w RMS (note that is RMS not peak, peak I think is 1200) and it is bad ass. Mono block design and it runs hard as hell while staying cool. The subs are nice as well, 5500 was a middle of the road model the 7500 and 9500's were more baller but I didn't need the bling, I cared more about a high end amp because at the time I was changing systems on the regular. This one really set with me and I kept it til I sold the vehicle it was in and have since not kept a car long enough to install it. I might have some pics or I can take some fresh ones tomorrow. The box has a ding in the corner and the amp (thanks to DJ) has scratches on its finish. The black can be re-painted which was my plan. The top part you can select what color you want it to light up and if you want it to bounce with the beat or just stay constant. Its a really nice looking and working amp. I have been asking $350 for the subs and amp and $100 for the radio. It is a high end Pioneer unit with 4v preouts and a multicolor OEL display. It is going on 5 years old now though, so I know it is only worth so much. It has been in storage for probably 3 years. So, in the end, if I could get $300 for all of it I would be happy. Get it out of my storage space.
Re: Project: Haters Gon Hate - JPolen01 - 04-21-2011
I'm most likely getting a new alpine headunit with ipod integration and all the bells and whistles so I would just be in the market for the subs and amp. I'll have to think about it. If you still have it at the end of May I may be interested. My parents hinted at an "end of first year of college" gift, so I'll see what I can talk them into :lol:
Re: Project: Haters Gon Hate - D_Eclipse9916 - 04-22-2011
Jeff Wrote:I might have some pics or I can take some fresh ones tomorrow. The box has a ding in the corner and the amp (thanks to DJ) has scratches on its finish.
:?:
Re: Project: Haters Gon Hate - Jeff - 04-22-2011
D_Eclipse9916 Wrote:Jeff Wrote:I might have some pics or I can take some fresh ones tomorrow. The box has a ding in the corner and the amp (thanks to DJ) has scratches on its finish.
:?:
When it was mounted in the side panel of the van you were sitting in that seat (as best I can remember) and let the seatbelt go and it flipped around and the buckle hit the amp. That was what I remember at least, maybe it wasn't you. :dunno:
Re: Project: Haters Gon Hate - xvxax - 04-26-2011
JPolen01 Wrote:Damn you know your wheels. How the hell did you figure that out?
ESM 002R 17x8.5 +20mm
I like wheels of all types and sizes. When I saw the wheels were new it was pretty easy. Used wheels would be a lot tougher, but there aren't many mesh wheels with bolts of that style especially with 4 bolts. So yeah, BBS RS reps. I forgot the R's where 17" and the non R's were 16, but yeah close enough.
Re: Project: Haters Gon Hate - JPolen01 - 04-26-2011
Just a small update-I have arranged to borrow a friends heat gun to remove the pin stripe so I won't have to sit there for 5 hours with a stupid blow dryer. The heat gun should speed up the process exponentially. I am also definitely going through with the skid plate. I figured spending the money now rather than ripping it off and being shit out of luck is a good idea. Obviously it will be made of steel (I will let the fabricator decide on how thick because I really don't know metal). The main aspect I am looking for is to be able to change the oil with the plate still on. It will need to have cutouts for access to the drain plug and filter. Shouldn't be to difficult for an experienced fabricator. I have a few local shops in mind to check out. I'll try and document the process as much as possible with pictures.
Re: Project: Haters Gon Hate - LC619FR - 04-26-2011
Most skids (atleast in the rock crawling world) are in the 3/16 to 1/4 in range. It would be kind of neat but a little pricey to have it made of aluminum for wieght saving and cool factor.
Re: Project: Haters Gon Hate - JPolen01 - 04-29-2011
Thread jacking my own thread with a question I would like some advice on....What's everyone's take on changing automatic transmission fluid? Talked to my dad the other day and asked him if it had ever been changed. He couldn't remember doing it but feels like it was done. No records were kept so it is pretty much unknown. So do I change the fluid and risk the trans grenading or just let it go and see what happens? I have heard different things and would really like some advice.
Re: Project: Haters Gon Hate - Goodspeed - 04-29-2011
JPolen01 Wrote:Thread jacking my own thread with a question I would like some advice on....What's everyone's take on changing automatic transmission fluid? Talked to my dad the other day and asked him if it had ever been changed. He couldn't remember doing it but feels like it was done. No records were kept so it is pretty much unknown. So do I change the fluid and risk the trans grenading or just let it go and see what happens? I have heard different things and would really like some advice.
I'd change it, but without flushing it with a machine. If its never been changed, it could be more of a goo than a fluid, and power flushing it could get globules of crap all up in bad places that could kill it. But, its a vital fluid just like oil, and I wouldn't not change it. Drop the pan, replace (or not even, possibly just clean) the filter, and do a traditional change.
The argument to never change it 'cuz it could do bad things irks me, its blaming proper care for a possible negative outcome when it was never done in the past :lol:
Re: Project: Haters Gon Hate - JustinG - 04-29-2011
ive always been told the rule of thumb its ok to change, but if it smells burnt DO NOT FLUSH. Plus how expensive is a used tranny for those things? Like $25 bucks?
Re: Project: Haters Gon Hate - JPolen01 - 04-29-2011
I would get the fluid changed at the dealer because I have never done it before. And yeah if the trans went, I would probably just throw a used one in and call it a day.
Re: Project: Haters Gon Hate - Jake - 04-29-2011
I had this same issue with my buddy's BMW 525iA. ~190k miles and no records of a trans service, ever. The transmission in those cars is a variant of the GM HydraMatic that was used in the Chevette... they took it and added a 4th gear, essentially. So, it's somewhat weak and you need to be careful with fluid changes.
I was told to NOT flush the fluid with a machine as it would dislodge some particulates that may have worked into just the right places that are keeping things intact. People did say that a simple drain and re-fill would be okay. In the end I just left it, as it was shifting fine in all gears. I drove it recently (now at 204k) and it still drove fine. Jeff said it occasionally slips between 1st and 2nd but not with any frequency.
Not sure of your mileage, but I would guess that A) the Honda 4-cyl/Auto combination is pretty stout and B) if it croaks, you can either pick up another autobox for cheap, or do a 5-speed swap for only slightly more.
Re: Project: Haters Gon Hate - JPolen01 - 04-29-2011
yeah it shifts pretty smooth, it doesnt really slip between any gears. I think ill just leave it as is and see what happens.
Re: Project: Haters Gon Hate - Mike - 04-29-2011
JustinG Wrote:ive always been told the rule of thumb its ok to change, but if it smells burnt DO NOT FLUSH. Plus how expensive is a used tranny for those things? Like $25 bucks?
who wants to do an auto trans job? :vomit:
Re: Project: Haters Gon Hate - JPolen01 - 05-10-2011
As I get underway with the project I figured I would update this thread. Yesterday I cleaned and detailed the car and replaced the battery which I think may have been the stock one! I dropped the wheels and tires off at a local wheel shop for mounting and balancing. Got them back today and damn do they look good. This is a specialty wheel shop, not some walmart or exxon station. No scratches anywhere to be found, the weights are placed nicely hidden on the inside of the barrel, and the tires were stretched perfectly.
![[Image: mounted.jpg]](http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x323/jpolen01/mounted.jpg)
It's an 8 inch tire on an 8.5 inch wheel, so the stretch was minimal (sorry for the bad lighting in the picture-taken with a droid)
![[Image: finger.jpg]](http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x323/jpolen01/finger.jpg)
Being lazy and always trying to be efficient, I picked up a Mother's Powerball Polisher attachment for my power drill. I sure as hell am not cleaning mesh wheels by hand so this seemed to be the best bet. I will let everyone know how it works once I try it out.
![[Image: powerball.jpg]](http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x323/jpolen01/powerball.jpg)
Last night I decided to attempt to remove the tint from my tail lights. Why I thought this was cool at 14 is beyond me. I will be 19 on the 26th so the tint has been on for a solid 5 years. Many people told me paint thinner will take it right off no problem. I tried this with no luck. It was like running water over the light. So I hopped on the internet and searched for ways to do it. I found a thread with steps using paint thinner, rubbing compound, and then waxing. Within that thread someone else said just use Carb and Choke Cleaner-it will wipe right off. Went to Advanced Auto and bought the materials needed plus the Carb cleaner for shits and giggles. I get home and to no avail, the thread I followed wasn't working. I decided to spray on the carb cleaner. This made the tint literally rub off with just my finger! I then used Meguiar's Plast-X to shine the lights up. They now look like new
![[Image: tailight.jpg]](http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x323/jpolen01/tailight.jpg)
Last update for today is the pin stripe. I borrowed a heat gun from a buddy of mine and went to work. I heated up a section for a few seconds and it peeled right off with my fingers. After peeling it off the rear quarter, I rubbed off the glue with Goo Gone. Can't even tell the car had a stripe for over 10 years :lol:
![[Image: pinstripe.jpg]](http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x323/jpolen01/pinstripe.jpg)
Not sure why pictures are so small this time? They have all been taken with my phone,but the pictures in my original post are larger. hmmm
Re: Project: Haters Gon Hate - Jake - 05-10-2011
Nice progress. Mesh/multispoke wheels are definitely a pain to keep clean. You should debadge the trunk so you are left with just the Honda logo, none of this Accord LX doodoo :thumbup:
Re: Project: Haters Gon Hate - JPolen01 - 05-15-2011
Suspension is done. Had a little mishap while adjusting the ride height. I stupidly rested my arm on the jack under the rotor and then continued to pull the pin connecting the coil over to the rest of the suspension thus dropping the rotor onto my wrist. It pinned my arm between the rotor and jack for a good 15-20 seconds before my friend picked up the rotor and freed my hand. No stitches but a nice gash in my hand and a swollen wrist. Wheels will be test fitted today and I'll upload some pictures!
Re: Project: Haters Gon Hate - Jeff - 05-17-2011
JPolen01 Wrote:Suspension is done. Had a little mishap while adjusting the ride height. I stupidly rested my arm on the jack under the rotor and then continued to pull the pin connecting the coil over to the rest of the suspension thus dropping the rotor onto my wrist. It pinned my arm between the rotor and jack for a good 15-20 seconds before my friend picked up the rotor and freed my hand. No stitches but a nice gash in my hand and a swollen wrist. Wheels will be test fitted today and I'll upload some pictures!
If your wrist broke and your friend said "OH SNAP" before lifting it off of you....would you hate him forever?
Seriously though, glad you are ok.
Re: Project: Haters Gon Hate - JPolen01 - 12-28-2011
Bumping this thread after doing some work on the car today after a long hiatus. Bit the bullet and did the extended studs myself. Rears were cake since all you have to do is open the drum and take off the spindle. Fronts were more of a pain because the entire hub had to come off. With Lincoln's help and Dan's garage we were able to get it done though. Many bashings of the slide hammer were felt and in the end it turned out fine. Hub hasn't come apart and the studs are still seated.
My second set of wheels were then mounted even though I wasn't happy with the ride height. I couldn't lower the front anymore due to some clearance issues and in the rear I trimmed the bumper but still rubbed with weight in the back. Took a grinder to one of the rear bumper brackets in the wheel well and solved that issue. Solved the clearance issue in the front today. I know I'm going to catch shit for this but I don't care, the car is old and I wanted the easy way out. To remedy the clearance issue in the front I used a hole saw to drill holes in each shock tower to create more room for my camber kit to travel. Pictures will come soon of this so you guys can laugh your asses off. I know I did while doing it. Lowered the front another 1/4 inch but still have to much wheel gap for my liking so hopefully another day this week or next I will lower it some more. The rear will also go down another 1/4 inch probably. Last thing on deck is the front lip. I need to test fit it then paint it. A professional shoot will be done once I get back to JMU by a good friend of mine. Other than that I don't have a lot of other plans besides routine maintenance. Some paint correction by Dan and maybe delve into a wire tuck if I can find someone who wants to teach me.