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+--- Forum: Technical Discussion (https://forum.mmsports.org/forumdisplay.php?fid=11)
+--- Thread: Another project e30: 1990 330iS (/showthread.php?tid=5052)
- BLINGMW - 11-20-2006
you tell that Barry that I said hi and he better get on it :lol:
- Beej - 11-22-2006
After my third set of spark plugs (forget the first, they were some single prong NGK's with a tiny electrode thing in the middle, BKR6EQUP's (four prongers), and now BKR6EK (double prongers)), I'm convinced that they aren't the issue.
I also don't think my MAF was bad...I think I was just throwing that code because I unplugged it to see what it did...I wasn't throwing the code when I bought the car, and the other guy's car seemed to run fine with mine.
Pretty much exhausted ignition stuff, so I'm gonna do fuel stuff next. The FPR I got is silver, which is interesting (but probably means nothing) because the one on the motor now is black. In other words, this FPR is blacknot. I'll probably send the injectors out too.
Camber plates are in though! Set to full-nancy position:
![[Image: Camber2.jpg]](http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f354/huntwc/Camber2.jpg)
- ScottyB - 11-22-2006
those camber plates are niiiice
- Beej - 12-04-2006
igh:The latest fixes were rebuilt fuel injectors (which are baller), and a new coolant temp sensor. I also 'faked' the vehicle speed sensor being hooked up.
Nothing changed. So overall, here's where I stand.
New/rebuilt parts:
Fuel injectors (stock greenies)
Fuel pump
Fuel filter
Fuel pressure regulator
Coolant temp sensor
ICV
Vacuum fittings at valve cover and under intake manifold
Sparkies (3 sets)
Valve cover gasket
O2 sensor
Catalytic converter
Parts swapped with a local guy:
Coils
AFM
Misc chips/ECU's
TPS
I seriously am running out of parts to throw at the thing. Next up is grilling the PO and the shop that did the swap for more information, I guess.
Rebuilt injectors are sweet though...thanks for the WitchHunter recommendation whoever (Evan?).
![[Image: Injectors.jpg]](http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f354/huntwc/Injectors.jpg)
- ViPER1313 - 12-04-2006
Check all the grounds to the engine and ignition components, also check for frayed or melted wires......
Friends Black SHO would stall when you made left hand turns because 1cm of wire was frayed and would ground out when the subframe shifted...... small electrical issues (corroded wires, loose grounds) can cause crazy problems.
- Beej - 12-04-2006
Yeah, grounds are next...I actually picked up a new strap for the main chassis -> oil pan connection, I just have to put it on.
- Mike - 12-04-2006
one of the grounds looks like doodoo... looks like they painted and then just attached the wire.
also, i faked the vss wire... bj sat pretty in his heated seats.
- Beej - 12-05-2006
Mike Wrote:also, i faked the vss wire... bj sat pretty in his heated seats.Yay, Mike can hold two wires together (and complain about it!).
But yeah, I did look damn good last night.
- Mike - 12-05-2006
i was totally almost shocked to death and you know it.
- xvxax - 12-06-2006
What about crank position sensor? Does the car start easily?
- Beej - 12-06-2006
Yeah, I'm guessing crank and cam sensors are good, as the car starts perfectly fine.
Fucked around with grounds a bit today. Found out that the one that goes to the oil pan will cause nothing to happen when the key is turned, and the one at the diagnostic connector will cause it to crank for days and never start (I disconnected it, then connected it, and it wasn't good enough after the reconnection...interesting). Grounded that one with another strap, and I'll work on the oil pan one. The fact that a bad 'reconnection' caused it to crank but not start made me a believer in how much grounds can fuck shit up, but I'm skeptical that they're the cause of my problem.
- .RJ - 12-06-2006
If the reconnection isnt good, try grounding it to something without paint on it - just something to think about.
- Beej - 12-06-2006
.RJ Wrote:If the reconnection isnt good, try grounding it to something without paint on it - just something to think about.Yeah, if I can't get a ground to reach a paintless spot within reason, I'm just gonna sand some paint off of wherever it connects.
- .RJ - 12-06-2006
I have some 4 ga battery cable from when I wired my kill switch that you're welcome to have if you need it. I'll double check how much I have.
- xvxax - 12-06-2006
Have you looked through this?
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=407255&highlight=runs+rough">http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh ... runs+rough</a><!-- m -->
If you can get through the 200+ people who had faulty o2 sensors, there's actually some legit info in there.
I don't think it's the grounds either, when I did my swap I was missing two grounds and the car ran fine. One of the coil grounds, and the coil from the block to the motor mount. I drove the car to the dealer to buy replacements.
- Beej - 12-06-2006
Well at least I made some actual progress tonight.
A ground spot for a few relays is the starter. It's not uncommon during motor swaps to forget to reconnect this guy. On my car, it powers (at least) relay K7, which has to do with HVAC stuff. I bypassed the relay for now, just to make sure that stuff works, and I got the blower motor and power mirrors to work! So I have to figure out how to get K7 a legitimate ground...I thought K5 had the same one - that one should control my heated seats, but those have always worked.
It's neat to see how fast the blower motor turns (fucker moves), and to see how the cabin recirculation flaps work.
- ViPER1313 - 12-07-2006
xvxax Wrote:Have you looked through this?
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=407255&highlight=runs+rough">http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh ... runs+rough</a><!-- m -->
If you can get through the 200+ people who had faulty o2 sensors, there's actually some legit info in there.
I don't think it's the grounds either, when I did my swap I was missing two grounds and the car ran fine. One of the coil grounds, and the coil from the block to the motor mount. I drove the car to the dealer to buy replacements.
He stated he already replaced the O2 sensor, no change.
On my car if the ground to the ignition module is loose on an SHO it will cause all kinds of hell. A corroded wire to the coil pack or any of the major wiring harnesses can also cause havoc.
Hell, the SHO my friend bought for $150 was sold cause of a missing ground wire. Fucker spent 3 months messing with it, finally gave up trying to figure out why the fuel pump wouldn't prime. After 5 seconds I realized the car was missing the ground from the battery to chassis (the terminals had been replaced.) Installed, 3 cranks, car started right up 8)
- xvxax - 12-07-2006
Right, but like I said once he gets past that it's some useful information on what people have done to fix their cars, namely the M50/52 based motors, like the one in his car.
The thread is titled "the official bogging, hesitating and rough idle thread" or something like that. It's 51 pages long.
-Peter
- Beej - 12-08-2006
Woot, two more successes (more like 1.5 I guess).
Hooked up the VSS for real, and it seems to be working. Only rolled the car back and forth in the driveway, but if it was rolling, the idle was 1000-1100 (this didn't happen before). Hopefully the code will stay away.
The other half success was finding the other (and 99% sure the last) wire that wasn't hooked up during the swap. It's the ground for the 'unloader' relays (one of which is K7, the blower motor/window mirrors one), and so I have to pick up a connector at the dealer tomorrow and everything in the car will work. Fucking word.
If any of you guys ever happen to be in Los Angeles, and ever happen to have a BMW, and that BMW ever happens to need work, take it to South Bay Independent. The guy that I've been calling to help me out is by far the most knowledgable BMW mechanic I've ever spoken with, and he's not even the head mechanic. That shop kicks ass.
- ScottyB - 12-08-2006
damn right BJ! thats what i like to hear