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+--- Thread: 2007 Toyota 4Stunner (/showthread.php?tid=11468)
Re: 2007 Toyota 4Stunner - Senor_Taylor - 08-11-2017
I promise I'm not trying to copy you, but if mine ends up like yours.... Worse things have happened.
Toyota fans are cool because you don't need a tool to remove them, just 4 12mm bolts. Shroud is 2 bolts, 3 bolts on the expansion tank, then unbolt the alt and ps pump. Take passenger wheel off and remove a panel to unhook the connectors from the alt. Slide the ps pump out a bit then wrestle the alt out. Then we had to drop the sway bar to get the alternator down and around it, then all the way back up through the top. (Wrap your head around that) . Reverse the process for installation. I would never EVER attempt this alone. You need two sets of hands to hold the alternator as you fish it down, up, down and around to get to the awful torture cave it's in.
My reward to Zach for helping was letting him drive it to work. He loved my Tacoma, so we'll see how much he likes this!
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Re: 2007 Toyota 4Stunner - V1GiLaNtE - 08-11-2017
Senor_Taylor Wrote:I promise I'm not trying to copy you, but if mine ends up like yours.... Worse things have happened.
My reward to Zach for helping was letting him drive it to work. He loved my Tacoma, so we'll see how much he likes this!
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1) Consult me next time something happens. Hopefully I can point you in the right direction.
2) If he likes it enough let him know you're aware of an 06 Limited with 130k? :thumbup:
EDIT: My shop acknowledge they totally underestimated the job..I think I got the labor for a steal. :mrgreen:
RE: 2007 Toyota 4Stunner - Senor_Taylor - 10-16-2017
So far this thing has been a tank and very enjoyable to drive. I've driven it about 7,000 miles since Mid June which is a lot considering I split driving this with other vehicles. Gas mileage has settled in at 19.6 which is far better than the Tacoma. I've taken full advantage of the fold down space hauling furniture, people, and car parts. It's taken me to Myrtle Beach, JMU a few times, and even down to Radford for recruiting. It's by far the best vehicle I have ever owned.
I got under it to grease the driveshaft (which should be done every two oil changes or else you start to get slack in the driveline) and was promptly met with a blizzard of rust. The paint/rust converter the PO/dealership applied to the underside is already mostly gone and revealing lots of surface rust. Nothing to make me think the vehicle is unsafe and would cause problems within the next 10 years, but I'm a little disappointed I haven't escaped the notorious Toyota frame rust. I'll probably take a sander to it some time next year and rear coat everything for my peace of mind, but I suspect the exhaust won't occupy its current location much longer with the rust I see on the hangers.
That leads me to my next thing I need to tackle. The exhaust leak. I believe I have a cracked header, but I also have a really bad exhaust rattle from the same location, so i'm wondering if the dealer just didn't tighten something properly when they installed the headers before I bought it. I'll need to poke around, but I'm not motivated at all to work on this thing since it doesn't fit in the garage. If the manifold is cracked, I have two options. Spend $700 and replace the manifold with an OEM one that will most likely crack at some point in the future, or drop $1000 and buy 2 stainless manifolds and replace both. I'm leaning towards the former, but the latter sounds cool.
I also need tires. My front right has a slow leak (which may or may not be causing my TPMS light to stay on, jury is still out on that one) and the performance of these tires is very subpar. ABS kicks in pretty often on hard braking or in any amount of rain, and the traction control even activated one time in the dry just because I rolled backwards slightly on a hill before hitting the gas.
Any suggestions? I know nothing about All Season/Road fairing AT tires. I want something more aggressive in case I do choose to tackle some fire trails or play in the snow, but I do quite a bit of highway miles. I'm okay with leaning to a more aggressive tire though. I can live with less life out of them.
RE: 2007 Toyota 4Stunner - Jake - 10-16-2017
I had Bridgestone Dueler H/L on the F150, Michelin LTX on the Denali, and I believe the same Michelins are on the Range Rover. They were all pretty good, just have to keep in mind they're generally highway oriented. I still got around in the snow fine with 'em.
RE: 2007 Toyota 4Stunner - V1GiLaNtE - 10-16-2017
(10-16-2017, 03:58 PM)Jake Wrote: I had Bridgestone Dueler H/L on the F150, Michelin LTX on the Denali, and I believe the same Michelins are on the Range Rover. They were all pretty good, just have to keep in mind they're generally highway oriented. I still got around in the snow fine with 'em.
If you come pick them up you can have the Duelers that came off my T4R.. I've got five of them sitting on the back deck. 18" since I have a limited as well. That should hold you over until you figure out this exhaust thing.
![[Image: 00k0k_aCMYo2CpNCw_1200x900.jpg]](https://images.craigslist.org/00k0k_aCMYo2CpNCw_1200x900.jpg)
RE: 2007 Toyota 4Stunner - Senor_Taylor - 10-16-2017
(10-16-2017, 04:03 PM)V1GiLaNtE Wrote:Oh cool. What's the tread like and how did they handle?(10-16-2017, 03:58 PM)Jake Wrote: I had Bridgestone Dueler H/L on the F150, Michelin LTX on the Denali, and I believe the same Michelins are on the Range Rover. They were all pretty good, just have to keep in mind they're generally highway oriented. I still got around in the snow fine with 'em.
If you come pick them up you can have the Duelers that came off my T4R.. I've got five of them sitting on the back deck. 18" since I have a limited as well. That should hold you over until you figure out this exhaust thing.
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RE: 2007 Toyota 4Stunner - Ryan T - 10-16-2017
I had these Pathfinder S A/T on my F150 for about 10k miles before I sold the truck. They are kinda loud but have decent road manners for an a/t / snow tire. They are also awesome off-road. The have the Severe Service Emblem so they are rated to do well in snow, which I can attest, they do. I pulled a Mercedes SUV out of a ditch through 8" of snow on the road in these with no problem. Never had any issues getting around. Plus, they're cheap and have a good tread wear warranty.
https://www.discounttire.com/buy-tires/pathfinder-sport-s-at/p/17961
RE: 2007 Toyota 4Stunner - Tyler.M - 10-16-2017
go ahead and replace both for 300 more. i should've done that. both are known to crack.
I'm running Cooper discovery tires that came with mine and are basically new. IDK why but every 4runner I see has these tires for some reason.
RE: 2007 Toyota 4Stunner - Senor_Taylor - 11-01-2017
So, my power steering lines have pooped the bed. Possibly due to a mistake on my part, possibly due to these being prone to corroding and failing.
So far, the leak is only on a low pressure return line that is a "hard line" with a rubber coating on it. While diagnosing it, I made the hole worse and managed to introduce air into the system. I'm getting tires on it right now and managed to limp it here before the reservoir went dry. The pump is very loud now and the fluid is foaming up and the steering gets tight. Hopefully a bleed will take care of that. To say I'm upset is an understatement.
The worst part is, to replace all of the lines would be entirely too much money considering upcoming bills. I'm trying to just replace this one line that failed and see where it gets me, but I can't find confirmation on what the part number is.
I believe it is #12 here, but the diagram doesn't look exactly like what it does in the car.
http://toyotapartsestore.com/2007-toyota-4runner-limited-gas_4.7_v_8-transmission_automatic_trans_speeds-steering-p_s_pump_hoses-8416245/
Are there any shops around here that could make that line for me? I really don't want to spend $80 on that.
Here is the line in the car with the patch I attempted so I could limp it a mile down 7. This is the driver side, that's the battery and the ac compressor. Opposite the side with the PS pump.
![[Image: Mb3CLlg.jpg]](https://i.imgur.com/Mb3CLlg.jpg)
RE: 2007 Toyota 4Stunner - Tyler.M - 11-01-2017
oh god....im next.
2007 Toyota 4Stunner - ViPER1313 - 11-01-2017
If it’s the low pressure side, just get some aircraft clamps and some hose, cut and reassemble. No need to spend $80 imo
RE: 2007 Toyota 4Stunner - V1GiLaNtE - 11-01-2017
Just saw your tires comment, but it looks like you're already going in for new tires. Tread is great and handle just find for A/S tires.
Side note-free to anyone in MM if they need them.
RE: 2007 Toyota 4Stunner - Deceus - 11-03-2017
(11-01-2017, 07:49 AM)Senor_Taylor Wrote: So, my power steering lines have pooped the bed. Possibly due to a mistake on my part, possibly due to these being prone to corroding and failing.
So far, the leak is only on a low pressure return line that is a "hard line" with a rubber coating on it. While diagnosing it, I made the hole worse and managed to introduce air into the system. I'm getting tires on it right now and managed to limp it here before the reservoir went dry. The pump is very loud now and the fluid is foaming up and the steering gets tight. Hopefully a bleed will take care of that. To say I'm upset is an understatement.
The worst part is, to replace all of the lines would be entirely too much money considering upcoming bills. I'm trying to just replace this one line that failed and see where it gets me, but I can't find confirmation on what the part number is.
I believe it is #12 here, but the diagram doesn't look exactly like what it does in the car.
http://toyotapartsestore.com/2007-toyota-4runner-limited-gas_4.7_v_8-transmission_automatic_trans_speeds-steering-p_s_pump_hoses-8416245/
Are there any shops around here that could make that line for me? I really don't want to spend $80 on that.
Here is the line in the car with the patch I attempted so I could limp it a mile down 7. This is the driver side, that's the battery and the ac compressor. Opposite the side with the PS pump.
If you know the size of the fittings and hose it's pretty easy to find the adapters and make a braided line for it (or buy one pre-assembled). I gave Jeff a really nice flare tool that make hardlines from 3/16"-3/8" + 4.75mm. You'd still have to order a reel of hardline and right fittings but with the old line to use as a reference, it can re-made in no time at all.
RE: 2007 Toyota 4Stunner - Senor_Taylor - 11-03-2017
(11-03-2017, 09:20 AM)Deceus Wrote:This car isn't a project. It's just something to get me around. I don't know where you find the motivation or time to do stuff like that, but I'm not interested in doing it to a 4Runner. It got towed last night and I'm paying a lot of money to have one tube replaced. I tried my best to get it out, but I just don't have the time to mess with it in the ~2 hours of time I have between getting home from work and going to bed.(11-01-2017, 07:49 AM)Senor_Taylor Wrote: So, my power steering lines have pooped the bed. Possibly due to a mistake on my part, possibly due to these being prone to corroding and failing.
So far, the leak is only on a low pressure return line that is a "hard line" with a rubber coating on it. While diagnosing it, I made the hole worse and managed to introduce air into the system. I'm getting tires on it right now and managed to limp it here before the reservoir went dry. The pump is very loud now and the fluid is foaming up and the steering gets tight. Hopefully a bleed will take care of that. To say I'm upset is an understatement.
The worst part is, to replace all of the lines would be entirely too much money considering upcoming bills. I'm trying to just replace this one line that failed and see where it gets me, but I can't find confirmation on what the part number is.
I believe it is #12 here, but the diagram doesn't look exactly like what it does in the car.
http://toyotapartsestore.com/2007-toyota-4runner-limited-gas_4.7_v_8-transmission_automatic_trans_speeds-steering-p_s_pump_hoses-8416245/
Are there any shops around here that could make that line for me? I really don't want to spend $80 on that.
Here is the line in the car with the patch I attempted so I could limp it a mile down 7. This is the driver side, that's the battery and the ac compressor. Opposite the side with the PS pump.
If you know the size of the fittings and hose it's pretty easy to find the adapters and make a braided line for it (or buy one pre-assembled). I gave Jeff a really nice flare tool that make hardlines from 3/16"-3/8" + 4.75mm. You'd still have to order a reel of hardline and right fittings but with the old line to use as a reference, it can re-made in no time at all.
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
RE: 2007 Toyota 4Stunner - Deceus - 11-03-2017
(11-03-2017, 09:23 AM)Senor_Taylor Wrote: This car isn't a project. It's just something to get me around. I don't know where you find the motivation or time to do stuff like that, but I'm not interested in doing it to a 4Runner. It got towed last night and I'm paying a lot of money to have one tube replaced. I tried my best to get it out, but I just don't have the time to mess with it in the ~2 hours of time I have between getting home from work and going to bed.
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
Yeah getting the old line out is probably the hardest part of the whole operation. Remaking the line would just be a matter of pulling a lever twice to make a flare and then some time with a bender to recreate the bends. Once I switched to NiCopp I did all my hardlines in like 2-3 hours. Just stay away from stainless. Just for future reference.
RE: 2007 Toyota 4Stunner - Senor_Taylor - 11-03-2017
So, the problem is the fact that the rust was covered with paint/undercoating by the previous owner/auction/dealer, so I'd need to remove that before trying to treat anything. Once I get it back, I guess I'll make that my next project. Reading on 4Runner forums, tons of people have it way worse than I do. It's just such a pain to get under because I'm constantly getting rust in my eyes. My Tacoma at least had the Toyota Recall done where the dealer treats the frame. This is like someone painted over the rust.
RE: 2007 Toyota 4Stunner - Deceus - 11-03-2017
Yeah definitely invest in a face shield. It'll still end up in your hair and down your shirt so there's plenty of fun to be had lol. If you have an angle grinder then a flap disc will make quick work of just about anything going on down there and give you a nice clean surface. Just be careful since it'll also grind down the metal with ease if you apply a fair amount of pressure. I think I spent more time battling rust than anything else in my build so I feel your pain.
RE: 2007 Toyota 4Stunner - Senor_Taylor - 11-13-2017
So, I've got the 4runner back and the following has been done in the past 2 weeks now.
-265/60/18 Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs, checked my spare and it is a new tire in good condition
- New cooler tube for the PS system to fix the leak, flush and bleed of the fluid
- Greased up the driveshaft using an entire tube of grease in my grease gun to get rid of the annoying 4Runner clunk when coming to a stop or leaving in first gear. (Drive shaft slip yoke slams into the end of its slot without grease in there)
- Cleaned up some rust and spot sprayed rust converter on every rust spot I can see and find on the underside. It's good piece of mind to at least have the rust covered with something that claims to stop rust until I can really get into some places. The issues I have found is not really the frame or subframe, but it's the fasteners to Toyota uses seem to rust quickly and then spread the rust to the surrounding metal. It makes working on this thing a PITA
- Put a bandaid on the suspension clunk I get when going over bumps by tightening the passenger sway bar link (I loosened it to work on the Alternator a while back), and cleaned and flipped the passenger side way bar bushing around to stop the sway bar from sliding back and forth. The plan was to order new bushings, but of course the driver side bolts were sold corroded that I couldn't get a socket on there and when I finally got the right size hammered on, it immediately rounded off. Another task for someone I'll be giving money to on another day.
Towed the E30 to Summit, and it was smooth and uneventful. My sister pointed out how rough this thing rides for such a nice plush SUV and I can't stop noticing it. Another thing that will take getting used to is how you can feel every bump and shift of the hitch in the receiver much more than you do in a real pickup. Other than that, the trip was very nice and easy. The V8 has the power to pull decently without having to downshift much except for the mountain on 7 which made the motor stretch its legs a bit. The brakes worked well and there was minimal squat on the rear end. There may have been some claims on Facebook about me loading the trailer improperly, but that's simply incorrect. I have a 4" inch drop hitch and that's way too much, so a NASA guy is going to give me a hitch with less drop so that should solve that issue. Over the winter, I'll grab a trailer brake module and hook it up since the 4runner is pre wired for one to prepare for whenever I do get a trailer.
Plans for the winter, have Jason install a new header to replace the cracked one, trans drain and fill, diff fluids, fix the burned out bulb in my HVAC screen, and replace the rest of my PS lines for added insurance. Possibly in the spring look into sanding and coating some rust and replace rusted fasteners with new ones.
![[Image: NnP2wB3.jpg]](https://i.imgur.com/NnP2wB3.jpg)
RE: 2007 Toyota 4Stunner - .RJ - 11-13-2017
A 10 year old car is cracking manifolds and rusting? Da fuq? Time to sell it and buy a Ridgeline.
RE: 2007 Toyota 4Stunner - Senor_Taylor - 11-13-2017
(11-13-2017, 11:41 AM).RJ Wrote: A 10 year old car is cracking manifolds and rusting? Da fuq? Time to sell it and buy a Ridgeline.
You could get the manifolds replaced under recall if it has under 100,000 miles. I bought mine at 112k. It's just a small ticking noise and doesn't affect anything except for the smell when under hard acceleration, but I've found the key to keeping a car nice is to not wait or ignore the small things because they snowball and you end up having 15 different small things that don't matter on their own, but really make the car suck when they add up. Jason does good work for cheap and I'm happy to give him my money.