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+--- Thread: Megan the Merlot M edition (/showthread.php?tid=11215)
Re: Megan the Merlot M edition - Jake - 06-01-2017
Ken Wrote:Burrito.Jake Wrote:SlimKlim Wrote:Keep in mind I also vomited all over the interior.Jake Wrote:LOL, yep. Garages are hard when they're not totally empty.
I backed my FoST directly into my replacement Miata engine with all of 1500 miles on the car. That was fun. At least once you put the first ding on a car, you don't mind the next one as much.
I also kicked a floor jack into the rocker panel like, 1000miles after that. And scratched the plastic in the trunk shoehorning a TV box into it. That poor car had no chance.
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151 again?
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Re: Megan the Merlot M edition - Senor_Taylor - 07-16-2017
Mileage 114,XXX
So here's the latest news in my never ending saga of flip flopping on what I want to do. As you guys can tell with the supremely irresponsible number of cars I've contemplated buying/selling/trading in the last month, I'm pretty uncertain as to what my end game is with vehicles. I'm still not settled in entirely up here so I haven't really felt ready to autocross or anything, but the time will come. As it sits, I have the Tacoma, 4Runner, Miata, the moped, and partial ownership of the Chariot of Victory. The Tacoma should hopefully be sold today. The 4Runner has a loan on it that has been factored into my budget nicely and is not an issue besides fixing the manifold leak and doing the TB/WP next weekend; it is relegated to driving me and groceries to and fro. The moped costs me nothing but space so it'll sit, the Subaru will be at Joey's and we're going to invest mostly sweat equity into it, and then that leaves the Miata.
What do I plan to do with it? I've contemplated selling it and using some of the money from the Tacoma to buy something a little nicer to pull Street/HPDE duty and possibly venture into tracking if that suites my fancy, but at the end of the day, I really like the Miata (some times) and I don't know if I wouldn't regret it immensely. I've never owned a vehicle besides the Tacoma long enough to actually get to the point where I would choose what to do to it instead of fixing what was broken so I'm in uncharted waters. I believe I have devised a plan for my automotive future now. I'm selling the truck and will be paying one of my student loans in full (Woohoo!), some will go to Jason for the WP/TB on the 4Runner, and the rest will go into my savings. As I come across good deals on parts, I'm going to start nabbing them and tossing them on the Miata and get her ready to be a multipurpose car. Car parts are cool, but I'm focused on saving some money right now as well.
Quick list of plans for the Miata that may sound dumb but I'm seriously considering:
-Replace the soft top with a tan, plastic, zippered window. This top was broken on a cold night and the window snapped in half and not even 2 pounds of tape can fix it, the vinyl is tattered and the rain rail is shot. I'm looking for a top already on the frame and if I can't find one, I'm paying a shop to put it on. Nobody in this world can convince me to install one without it already on the frame. Sorry.
- Hard Dog Hard Core M1 Hardtop roll bar. AFAIK this bar sits the furthest back and will give me the most head room while fitting under the hard top. This only works with plastic window soft tops, so it doesn't work on NBs. This is will be the deciding moment. If it makes the Miata much worse to drive on the street for me, then my mind will be set on selling it. If it does not, then I have nothing to worry about and we can proceed with plans.
- Baseline and recovery plan for the motor. It needs a new TPS, so I'm looking for a throttle body with a TPS and ISCV already installed. This should hopefully solve the cold idle problem and the occasional buck when I left off the gas. This issue makes the vehicle unbearable to drive in the winter time because trying to drive slow in 1st gear actually causes me physical pain with how hard it jerks and bucks coming off the throttle. I can also hear the engine pinging again, so it's either related to the TPS not reading right, or the CAS is loose and turning itself to advance the timing. I've already re-timed it once a year ago, but the problem seems to have returned with this scorching weather. After that, I need to do a leak down test. Compression is "okay" but I'd like to know why it's a little low and burning some oil. If it's valve seals, I'll go ahead and do them. If it's rings, I'll just drive her until she pops, or proceed with a plan I'll dive into down below.
- Koni Yellows or another easy button suspension refresh. The #1 complaint with this vehicle I can have is the ride. It's on 23 year old shocks and they do not do it justice. If I plan to keep this car, a new suspension must be installed. I don't want to do anything crazy except maybe some used Koni Yellows or something to keep me in my current auto-x class. I don't need mad stance points or anything, I just want a better ride.
- Repair hard top: A piece of the hard top broke off and needs to be epoxied or put back on with some fiberglass. I'm going to wait to do this until after I can source another fender for the front and I'll get them both color matched to my car. At this point, I'm going to assess some rust on the car and try to clean it up as much as possible. The one fender really bothers me more than I ever though a cosmetic issue on a car would and I believe that is the #1 loss of value on this car.
- Pending how everything goes with money, time, effort, motivation, and my goals for motorsports in this thing, I'm going to look into power mods. I've never been one to freak out over lack of power or anything, but it's getting to be time that I'd like a little more. If a leak down test of the engine provides bad results, I'm seriously considering a small rebuild in the future. You're hard pressed to find a more simple engine to do one on and it'd be really cool to give this car a fresh heart. I'm not sure the logistics or plausibility of this, but it would be cool experience and give me much confidence in this car. This would would lead into the big end game.....
Jackson Supercharger. The kits aren't very expense and aren't very difficult to do at all. With a healthy motor in a clean chassis, this would be a bad little car. A 95 M (LSD, ABS, all power options) with a fresh supercharged motor, roll bar, color matched hard top, and a decent suspension will lead to a VERY unique and fun car. I know this all sounds very far-fetched and I may hit "submit" on this post and realize the stupidity of putting that effort into this car, BUT this is a unique car and I've come to realize I identify with this Miata more than I have with any other car I've ever had. Many people tell me that they immediately think of this car when they think about me, and this comes from non-enthusiasts. I don't know how much of this I'll get done, but I should wound't mind a hand with some of it if anyone has some advice, leads on parts, etc. Who knows, I may change my mind day after tomorrow and sell, or maybe I won't and I'll have a really cool car soon.
Re: Megan the Merlot M edition - Jake - 07-17-2017
Sounds like it could all be pretty fun, I'd dig it so long as your engine is okay before you go a'supercharging.
The rollbar will not make the car unbearable to street drive, the chassis will get a little tighter which is not a bad thing. Only real pain is that putting the top up becomes more of a process because you can't just throw your arm back and grab at it. My NA was great on the street until I put the seats and harnesses in it, then it started to suck.
Re: Megan the Merlot M edition - Scott - 07-17-2017
Senor_Taylor Wrote:. I'm looking for a top already on the frame and if I can't find one, I'm paying a shop to put it on. Nobody in this world can convince me to install one without it already on the frame. Sorry.
Planet Miata current have two used, tan soft tops listed on facebook for sale still on the frame. Call them: 1.866.296.1100
Re: Megan the Merlot M edition - rherold9 - 07-17-2017
I like the plans. Do what makes you happy and enjoy the car. I don't think you will regret the plans you have as long as you are happy with it. It's a lot of money to sink into a car but if you plan on keeping it and tracking do it. Have fun while you can.
I have had some bad thoughts on supercharging mine. Doesn't make big power of a turbo but the Flyin' Miata kit provides a warranty and reliability that won't ruin the charm of the power band.
Does FM make a kit for the NA? I'd look into that if they do. Their kits are slightly expensive for the power they make but the OEM quality, reliability, and durability is what they are known for. Mazda put that kit in their Super20 NC for good reasons.
Looking forward to where this goes
Re: Megan the Merlot M edition - Scott - 07-17-2017
Senor_Taylor Wrote:- Hard Dog Hard Core M1 Hardtop roll bar. AFAIK this bar sits the furthest back and will give me the most head room while fitting under the hard top. This only works with plastic window soft tops, so it doesn't work on NBs. This is will be the deciding moment. If it makes the Miata much worse to drive on the street for me, then my mind will be set on selling it. If it does not, then I have nothing to worry about and we can proceed with plans.
You will want to swap seats for track use to get the clearance you will need.
Jake Wrote:The rollbar will not make the car unbearable to street drive, the chassis will get a little tighter which is not a bad thing. Only real pain is that putting the top up becomes more of a process because you can't just throw your arm back and grab at it. My NA was great on the street until I put the seats and harnesses in it, then it started to suck.
Ditto what Jake said. When I used to track my red Miata, I would swap the race seats in and out in there was a lull between track weekends. Race seats are fun to drive in for the first couple of minutes, but after that, the novelty wears pretty quickly.
Re: Megan the Merlot M edition - Senor_Taylor - 07-17-2017
Exactly the plan, Scott.
Also the tops Planet Miata have seem to be glass windows unless I'm missing something. Definitely want plastic so I can run the best roll bar for my height. Please do keep an eye out for Koni yellows for me. I've never done a car suspension so I don't know what I'm doing. Don't even know what a top hat is, but I'm assuming I need them?
Actually list of parts I need for people to keep an eye out for me:
-Soft top, tan, on frame with rain rail, plastic zip window
- Koni yellow or other used reasonable NA shocks. Lowering isn't important to me, just something not blown and more useful for auto-x/track
- 2 BBS center caps for my wheels
- Cheap race seat that I can swap out for the stock seat easily
- Driver side front fender, hopefully in Merlot Mica (lol, no chance)
- Hard Drop M1 Hard Core HARD TOP (Unless someone knows of another Hard top roll bar that have more clearance for my fat head.
Re: Megan the Merlot M edition - Jake - 07-17-2017
The piston of the shock bolts to the top hat, and the top hat bolts to your shock tower.
Re: Megan the Merlot M edition - Scott - 07-18-2017
Senor_Taylor Wrote:Exactly the plan, Scott.
Please do keep an eye out for Koni yellows for me. I've never done a car suspension so I don't know what I'm doing. Don't even know what a top hat is, but I'm assuming I need them?
Buy new. Anything used will most likely we due for a rebuild anyway. I'll help you do the suspension, just installing Koni's should take us an hour.
You currently have top hats on your factory suspension, reuse those.
Re: Megan the Merlot M edition - Scott - 07-18-2017
Senor_Taylor Wrote:- Hard Drop M1 Hard Core HARD TOP (Unless someone knows of another Hard top roll bar that have more clearance for my fat head.
Skip the M1 hardtop bar and get the M2 hardtop bar. They will work with a glass rear window and bolt right into a NA. If you are worried about the "broomstick test" and are getting race seats, you can always get the M2 hardcore bar for the extra height, and contrary to what Hard dog says, they fit with a hardtop (I've installed several, it rubs, you'll have to remove the side hardtop latches and use brackets, but it works and gives the most clearance). Also get the harness bar.
Re: Megan the Merlot M edition - Senor_Taylor - 07-18-2017
Scott Wrote:Senor_Taylor Wrote:- Hard Drop M1 Hard Core HARD TOP (Unless someone knows of another Hard top roll bar that have more clearance for my fat head.
Skip the M1 hardtop bar and get the M2 hardtop bar. They will work with a glass rear window and bolt right into a NA. If you are worried about the "broomstick test" and are getting race seats, you can always get the M2 hardcore bar for the extra height, and contrary to what Hard dog says, they fit with a hardtop (I've installed several, it rubs, you'll have to remove the side hardtop latches and use brackets, but it works and gives the most clearance). Also get the harness bar.
The main reason I wanted the hard top bar is because it's further away from my head. Zach as the M2 and I hit my head on it even if I'm not in a comfortable seat position (which I rarely am in a Miata). I'd figure I could pass the broomstick test with a race seat and that bar, right?
Re: Megan the Merlot M edition - Scott - 07-18-2017
Senor_Taylor Wrote:Scott Wrote:Senor_Taylor Wrote:- Hard Drop M1 Hard Core HARD TOP (Unless someone knows of another Hard top roll bar that have more clearance for my fat head.
Skip the M1 hardtop bar and get the M2 hardtop bar. They will work with a glass rear window and bolt right into a NA. If you are worried about the "broomstick test" and are getting race seats, you can always get the M2 hardcore bar for the extra height, and contrary to what Hard dog says, they fit with a hardtop (I've installed several, it rubs, you'll have to remove the side hardtop latches and use brackets, but it works and gives the most clearance). Also get the harness bar.
The main reason I wanted the hard top bar is because it's further away from my head. Zach as the M2 and I hit my head on it even if I'm not in a comfortable seat position (which I rarely am in a Miata). I'd figure I could pass the broomstick test with a race seat and that bar, right?
Which M2 bar does Zach have? According to Harddog's website, M1 and M2 hardtop bars are the same height and distance from the windscreen
http://www.bethania-garage.com/images/schematic_hb_hbs_m2s_m1m2hcht_x.jpg
Re: Megan the Merlot M edition - Senor_Taylor - 07-18-2017
He doesn't have the hardtop bar. I know because we put my hard top on his and it fit but like you said, he would need the spec Miata bracket, not the latches.
The m2 Hard top sits 3 inches further back, but is 1 and 1/4" shorter. Which means I can slide the seat all the way back and not have the crown of my head directly under the bar like in Zach's. We also need to remember that my head rests are higher up than most Miatas because I have adjustable head rests.
The bossfrog max would be the best, but that is not compatible with a hard top at all. It's 19" tall and 28" inches back.
Edit: Apparently people have made it work. Are BossFrog ClearView Maxx bars legal for NASA/SCCA? If so, I could just drop some serious money on one of those and see if I can make the hard top fit.
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Re: Megan the Merlot M edition - Senor_Taylor - 07-29-2017
Paid a visit to the Miata ranch today to grab some BBS center caps to complete the car (thanks Scott!) And also grabbed a steering wheel from him. The inside is rusty compared to my old one, but the leather is in much better shape. I also grabbed the rubber bottom price for my Nardi Shifter to cover up the expose metal, but I bought one that was too short.
I also degreased the underside of my car a bit and realized I have a pretty bad leak somewhere, which would explain the oil loss. I think a combination of rear main and valve cover.
More things to add to my list are new motor/trans mounts and possibly those delrin door bushings.
I've also decided I'm going to sell my hardtop (hopefully to Zach) and find a nicer one to start with. Hopefully with a head liner and defrost. That way I can paint it to match the car and not worry about fixing the chip missing on the rear.
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![[Image: 39bc2383578a2b8ee79ea232d3d6ffba.jpg]](https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170729/39bc2383578a2b8ee79ea232d3d6ffba.jpg)
![[Image: b43a98c4f99b88620ab1b902a2855dbb.jpg]](https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170729/b43a98c4f99b88620ab1b902a2855dbb.jpg)
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Re: Megan the Merlot M edition - Scott - 07-30-2017
Senor_Taylor Wrote:I've also decided I'm going to sell my hardtop (hopefully to Zach) and find a nicer one to start with. Hopefully with a head liner and defrost. That way I can paint it to match the car and not worry about fixing the chip missing on the rear. k
Pro tip, the factory headliner is completely worthless. I have tops with and without and there is literally no difference
Re: Megan the Merlot M edition - Senor_Taylor - 09-08-2017
Okay guys, I really need help on this. I'm at the end of my wits dealing with this car's idle issues and now that the temperature outside is getting below 60 degrees on my commute, the car is completely undriveable. I'm really close to pushing it off a cliff or selling it cheap because I can't drive the car at all between September and March.
I bought a throttle body with the TPS and ISCV still attached from a BRR SCCA guy and installed it last night. Yet, my idle issues when cold still persist. Also, my intake is completely full of oil, which I guess explains why I'm burning so much (a little less than a quart every 1000 miles). It doesn't seem like it in the pictures I've posted below, but it's enough for me to scrape globs out with my fingers and it's all very wet. I've already replaced the PCV, but when I pulled it out last night, it has a lot of liquid oil in it. Perhaps the intake is pulling too much vacuum on the PCV? I don't even think PCVs work that way, right? They only open from pressure on the engine side?
Here are the symptoms of my idle issue. They only occur when it's below 60 degrees outside and they get exponentially worse the colder it gets.
When clutching in, the idle will hang. Some times at 1700, some times higher if it's colder. I've seen as high as 4000 RPM. If the idle hangs above 2000, the revs will climb to 2000 or higher, then fall quickly back down to 800, then back up to 2000 or higher, then fall back down again. Over and over and over for probably 15 seconds before it will find the idle. This specific issue is related to how cold it is, and the electrical load (headlights on, brake pedal pushed in, AC on). This issue is absolutely frustrating because when it's cold, I'm trying to leave every stop light at 2000 RPM some times up to 4000+.
Another issue is how bad the car bucks and jerks when it's cold. Letting off the gas in gear is equivalent to hitting a brick wall at 40 mph. Some times, you won't be thrown through the windshield immediately and it will coast fine, then after a second or two of coasting, the car will buck really hard and you can feel a huge drag on the car slowing it down. This make stop and go traffic a nightmare as I never know when letting off the gas will cause me to slam to a halt. When the car bucks harshly on deceleration, it also bucks really hard on acceleration. I'm sure I need motor and trans mounts, but that wouldn't cause it to be intermittent. All of these issues are completely non existent when the temperature outside is above 60.
So far, I've replaced a ton of vacuum lines, gone through probably 10 cans of TB cleaner trying to find a leak, cleaned the MAF, replaced the Throttle Body, TPS, and ICSV with a unit off another miata that was supposedly working, I've checked the TB gasket, replaced the PCV, played with the idle adjustment and throttle cable numerous times. I've checked the voltage on the TPS and it's fine.
What could this possibly be?
![[Image: ZvrExey.jpg]](http://i.imgur.com/ZvrExey.jpg)
![[Image: SWch8PZ.jpg]](http://i.imgur.com/SWch8PZ.jpg)
Re: Megan the Merlot M edition - Maengelito - 09-08-2017
If you're burning a ton of oil and your crankcase is overpressurized to the point that its blowing oil through the PCV and into the intake, maybe you've got bad rings? I haven't sorted through the 17 pages of this thread but have you done a compression/leakdown test?
Re: Megan the Merlot M edition - Senor_Taylor - 09-08-2017
Maengelito Wrote:If you're burning a ton of oil and your crankcase is overpressurized to the point that its blowing oil through the PCV and into the intake, maybe you've got bad rings? I haven't sorted through the 17 pages of this thread but have you done a compression/leakdown test?
I have done a compression test and the numbers were fine in cylinders 1,2,4. #3 was a tad low, but nothing insane. I guess that could be something that's happening, but I'm not burning oil visibly, it doesn't smell. Occasionally when it's really cold (Below 40) and I start it, the idle will hang at 3000+ RPM on cold start and it will smoke out the exhaust, but I think that's because it's sucking oil through the PCV because of the insane idle.
Other than that, you would never be able to notice I was losing oil except for the valves start clattering every 1000 miles and I add oil. I'm just not sure how that would cause an idle issue when it's cold outside? (Engine temp does not affect this).
I need to do a leakdown, but I don't have access to any of the stuff required.
Edit: These are the numbers from last year. Not too great.
Dry:
145,150,130,140
Wet
180, 185,165,165
Re: Megan the Merlot M edition - HAULN-SS - 09-09-2017
Has your electric choke failed and it's just throwing fuel in the carb? They are temperature based. Happened to me once
Re: Megan the Merlot M edition - Senor_Taylor - 09-09-2017
HAULN-SS Wrote:Has your electric choke failed and it's just throwing fuel in the carb? They are temperature based. Happened to me onceIt's not carbed and it also does not have a distributor.
Talked to someone at the track today who had the same issue. They said they never figured out the problem and ended up swapping the motor...
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