+- Madison Motorsports (https://forum.mmsports.org)
+-- Forum: Technical (https://forum.mmsports.org/forumdisplay.php?fid=4)
+--- Forum: Member's Projects (https://forum.mmsports.org/forumdisplay.php?fid=12)
+--- Thread: Project Hatch (/showthread.php?tid=3782)
- Andy - 08-23-2007
Mike Wrote:side note: does anyone know if there is a fix for pad knockback? i'm forced to tap the brakes before ten to get them back where they should be... it's getting old.
New rotors plus new brake clips =no knockback.
- Evan - 08-23-2007
The only time Ive had knockback was when the pads were binding in the bracket. Take a file and some sandpaper to smooth out the tabs on your brake pads and it should help if this is part of the cause.
- Mike - 08-23-2007
word... i'll just pick up some new clips tomorrow.
- .RJ - 08-23-2007
If you're getting pad knock back then there's a problem with your hubs or wheel bearings - arent they new?
- Mike - 08-23-2007
yes. i had the same issue before they were replaced too. it ONLY happens coming in to 10.
- Chris - 08-23-2007
Mike Wrote:doesn't the track open at 530 though?
i said screw lowering the front... it looks fine and my camber kit definitely doesn't hit at this height so why bother?
all bolts on seats/harnesses tight.
to do: tighten rearview, install brake ducts (f'ing weather), flush brakes, pack.
ah shit you're right... change of plans then :x
- Mike - 08-24-2007
i just can't motivate myself to do more than necessary.
this morning i'll be tightening my mirror and rotating my wheel one notch to the left.
at the track i'll be doing brake ducts and flushing fluid... why take the wheels off more than once?
- white_2kgt - 08-24-2007
Mike Wrote:side note: does anyone know if there is a fix for pad knockback? i'm forced to tap the brakes before ten to get them back where they should be... it's getting old.
Depends on what the cause of it is. The fix for mustangs is to switch to a fixed caliper design and not a floating caliper. You can change hubs every weekend and we still get knockback.
- Mike - 10-06-2007
So the hatch received a lot of attention this week: washing, compounding, waxing, vacuuming, and some touchup... I even cleaned the engine bay... 15 years of grime is a HUGE BITCH. She looks great now (compared to how she was). I still need to Line-X the trunk area...
To celebrate the 10+ hours I put in to getting her clean, I picked up a set of Rota Group Ns in flat black w/ a red stripe around the outside. They look snazzy! Unfortunately, one is potatoed, but balances... Not sure if it's worth doing the replacement shit since I'll put at most 1k miles a year on them.
I also dyno'd her! Woooo! I don't feel like scanning it so instead I'll just hit the major RPM points. Oh and since I was in 4th (.96:1 ratio) do I do any sort of correction?
RPM: HP/TQ, A/F
3000: 65/110, 15
3500: 74/108, 13.9
4000: 85/110, 13.8
4500: 100/118, 13.7
5000: 113/118, 12.8
5500: 123/118, 12.8
6000: 123/106, 12.3
6500: 120/98, 12.1
6900 (fuel cut): 110/83, 11.8
HP curve info: Constant increase until 5500, flat until 6500, and then drops off a little.
TQ curve info: Decent at low RPMS, drops a bit between 3200 and 4400, plateay from 4500 to 5500, constant drop off.
A guy with the same engine and pretty much same mods pulled 129 so I'm down on power a bit, but it isn't nearly as bad as I had thought. I'm guessing Maeng keeping up on straights is due to gearing... Any other thoughts on tuning? Fuggit?
Edit: Did some searching... Seems my torque number is high for the power. I'm guessing this is due to her running out of air up top?
SO!
Fuck a new motor for now... I'm getting a brand spanking new transmission from Honda.
Other plans for winter: get a real deal splitter, sway bar(s?), HIDs (I can't drive home from the track at night without being scared), tow hooks are on the way, maybe a duckbill, rear camber kit, bling lcas or new bushings, maybe a cf hood, maybe another lightweight battery (mine died), a full-sized radiator, and get my header and a new exhaust on there.
- WRXtranceformed - 10-06-2007
Your hatch looked awesome man! Those wheels looked really good on it.
You know now where you should be shifting at least. I probably wouldn't bother tuning that motor even if you put more mods on it... you won't see much gains on an NA setup. Maybe if you did like a K-series swap and started going big with it... cams, fuel work, etc.
- Mike - 10-06-2007
shift points? meh. on a twisty track, they're dictated by when and where you can fit them in... not by what will give you the best power to the ground
- WRXtranceformed - 10-06-2007
Might buy you a tenth or two on the straightaways
- Mike - 10-06-2007
i get to the end of 4th pretty easily on straights, but 5th is a no-go EVER due to some silly economy gearing. i'm better off just sitting at the rev limiter than shifting... the car would likely slow down
- Evan - 10-06-2007
how warmed up was the drivetrain? on miatas, power figures are 10-15hp lower until the 8th or 9th dyno pull due to friction losses and cold fluid. id say your numbers are pretty respectable though, especially the powerband.
- Mike - 10-06-2007
the car was pretty warm. it had run for a few minutes beforehand. the powerbands were a little lower on each subsequent run, but the peak was identical on all three.
- navin - 10-07-2007
Project Hatch v.2 > v.1
i kid i kid.
- Mike - 10-07-2007
hurray for your show car!
- Andy - 10-08-2007
Damn. Those are great power numbers. I might to get my car dynoed just to but similar MR2's only pull 108-110 whp.
- ScottyB - 10-08-2007
nice Mike! i thought your hatchy was already pretty pimp...lookin forward to seeing the new goods on her.
nice numbers, what does that put you at for power/weight ratio?
- Mike - 10-08-2007
Since most p/w is done with crank numbers, adding 15% to my 123 gives about 140 (down 2 even after mods!? lame.)
2080/140 = 14.8lbs/hp... nothing very impressive. Shit, that's worse than a new Civic Si.